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Hello


Bacon Creek Metal

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My name is Scott, I have a problem......

 

I am addicted to my 2 Cummins trucks....

 

I have a ‘71 F250 that I swapped a ‘94 Cummins and 47rh into and I love it. 

 

My bride has a ‘96 3500 47re that I have a love/hate relationship with. When the Diodes aren’t fried in the alternator and it shifts correctly I love it. I just finished deleting the CAD axle shaft and put locking hubs on it. 

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So I dig into the harness across the front of the engine again to move the battery lead to the passenger side battery. That looks fine. 

The ground lead attaches to the front of the head under the radiator hose. The ground leads that come up from the driver’s side attach to the top of the head by the heater grid leads. The only ground that goes to the passenger side is for the AC compressor. Do I leave it this way or should I run it’s ground to the passenger side battery? I know electronics typically signal through the ground, so would this mess me up?

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Probably true. I left the ground stuff alone.   I need to get a solder gun, my trusty HF unit smoked and popped today. I wasn’t able to get the smashed ground joints fixed properly. What a joke. I can’t believe Dodge did that. 

The high voltage TPS code is gone now with the positive lead removed from the harness and hooked to the other battery. Now I need to put my non-adjustable TPS back on and get the new diodes in. 

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17 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I typically just use a propane torch to do heavy gauge wire work soldering. 

do you place the wire in the bench vice to help not melt the insulation? That way its held in place anyway. Then just heat the lug while holding it on the wire holding the solder on the wire till it flows, is that right right? 

 

T.I.A.

Edited by JAG1
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4 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

do you place the wire in the bench vice to help not melt the insulation?

 

No. I do it all right on the engine. Way too many years of solder work. I've gotten good using just plain old propane torch and roll of solder. No vise. No heatsinks. Heat up, apply solder move on. @JAG1 just like a plumber would with copper pipe.

 

Heated and soldered on the vehicle.

DSCF4423.JPG

 

Heated and soldered on the vehicle. Look at the intercooler pipe you can see where it got heated. Grey spot.

DSCF4427.JPG

 

Secret... Automotive wiring is design to tolerate much more heat of the engine and normal operation. This allows for using the propane torch and solder. The trick is to place your lug and the heat only the lug not the wire. Apply your solder and the solder will naturally wick up in the copper.

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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