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I have a 2001 3500 w/independent front suspension,is there any way to test the front ABS sensor w/a voltmeter/ohm meter?

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way easier to see on a scan tool, but you should get a base ohm reading with the wheel static and start spinning the wheel the ohm reading should increase. if the meter shows no resistance or infinate resistance the sensor is shot.

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way easier to see on a scan tool, but you should get a base ohm reading with the wheel static and start spinning the wheel the ohm reading should increase. if the meter shows no resistance or infinate resistance the sensor is shot.

im trying to run down my cruise control/ abs brake light problem and I am thinking it is a speed sensor up front. What scanner is cheapest and will check their functionality?

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The only thing I know of that can test wheel speed sensors is a Dodge DRBIII scantool...

But a simple way to figure it out...

[*]If the speedometer is NOT working correctly the rear sensor is to blame.

[*]If the speedometer is working then the front 2 sensor should be changed as a set.

You'll find if you replace 1 front sensor and not the other the problem might persist. Reason being the other sensor is most likely wore out too so the new sensor is showing a different value from the good old one hence ABS still throws a error. Been down this road... :lol:

CAB unit likes to see only matching speeds from all 3 sensors when there is a variation from the group the the BRAKE and ABS light is thrown.

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I think a scanner would be pricey,i call around once to have a brake shop scan it i think they wanted $60-75 to do it,i was just wondering if it was something i could do myself. 2001 3500 QC 2WD mostly stock 245 HP Hypertech Programmed ,115 Gal aux Fuel tank,B&W Companion Hitch,Fuller FSO 8406 6 speed w/14" pull type clutch,763K miles

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The only thing I know of that can test wheel speed sensors is a Dodge DRBIII scantool...

But a simple way to figure it out...

[*]If the speedometer is NOT working correctly the rear sensor is to blame.

[*]If the speedometer is working then the front 2 sensor should be changed as a set.

You'll find if you replace 1 front sensor and not the other the problem might persist. Reason being the other sensor is most likely wore out too so the new sensor is showing a different value from the good old one hence ABS still throws a error. Been down this road... :lol:

CAB unit likes to see only matching speeds from all 3 sensors when there is a variation from the group the the BRAKE and ABS light is thrown.

OK cool I will change both front ones. Is that pretty much the most common reason both brake lights stay lit? Would that have anything to do with the yellow cruise light on my odometer staying lit constantly and the cruise and switches not working?

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way easier to see on a scan tool, but you should get a base ohm reading with the wheel static and start spinning the wheel the ohm reading should increase. if the meter shows no resistance or infinate resistance the sensor is shot.

That's what I would think too as the sensor has to have a change in resistance to work.:thumbup2:

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I think a scanner would be pricey,i call around once to have a brake shop scan it i think they wanted $60-75 to do it,i was just wondering if it was something i could do myself.

2001 3500 QC 2WD mostly stock 245 HP Hypertech Programmed ,115 Gal aux Fuel tank,B&W Companion Hitch,Fuller FSO 8406 6 speed w/14" pull type clutch,763K miles

Hmmm. The only reason I know that a most shop have problem accessing the ABS module is the fact that when mine gave up and tossed the light I had two shop try and neither one could access the CAB module and verify it. :shrug:

The 3rd one was a Dodge dealer and the broke out the DRBIII tool and got it first shot. Thankful it wasn't my dime for all this... :smart:

OK cool I will change both front ones. Is that pretty much the most common reason both brake lights stay lit? Would that have anything to do with the yellow cruise light on my odometer staying lit constantly and the cruise and switches not working?

More than likely the cruise switches in the wheel are sticky or shorted? :shrug:

WARNING: Before doing any work on the steering wheel or clockspring disconnect the batteries for at least 10-15 minutes... This will disable the AirBag's and keep it from going off on you.

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my snap on solise views the abs just fine and i can watch all wheel speed on data feed to see if a wheel sensor is dropping out. my dodge does have sticky switches on steering wheel really have to bow up to engage cruise.

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