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Timing regarding cetane number


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So I just found out that the local supplier here in Oregon (SeQuential), that supplies fuel to the Shell station I usually go to, has a cetane rating of 55.3 for their B100. They cut it with regular #2 diesel to make it B20. The cetane rating should then be about 50 for the B20. All the research that I've done states that B20 should be right about there. My question is, what timing would be the best for this 50 cetane fuel? I normally drive at 60-65 and my rpms are ~1550-1675. Should I be around 16* cruise timing for max fuel economy with this fuel or is that too low/high?

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Is there a way that I can find the optimal timing for my engine with the high cetane fuel? Will I just have to study the load % and EGT? I have been running at 16* lately but it seems that my egts have gone up a bit. Would this indicate too low of timing? I've tested out higher timing 20+ but it seems that I don't really get any improvement and that I might be getting a negative torque result. Not sure but that's what I'm thinking.

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Engine load and engine oil temperature. 

 

As timing advances the engine oil temperature will rise. Then when you retard it will fall. I'm aiming for lower engine oil temperature and low engine loads. I'm now at 21 MPG last tank ran. Pretty soon I'll be back to advanced timing and summer fuel with cetane at 40 to 43.

 

During the summer I aim for about -10*F lower engine oil temperature than coolant. In the winter is about -30*F lower than coolant. As you advance timing there is more flame front on the cylinder walls heating the coolant more hence the engine oil can be cooled as much on the 2nd gens. 

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There is a plug on the drivers side of the block about midway just aft of the VP that I have a oil pressure switch installed in. The plug looks like a small hex cap screw. It is not tapered and relies on an o ring to seal.

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19 minutes ago, dripley said:

There is a plug on the drivers side of the block about midway just aft of the VP that I have a oil pressure switch installed in. The plug looks like a small hex cap screw. It is not tapered and relies on an o ring to seal.

Do you know what size it is? If it's 1/4 I might be able to get an adapter and relocate my oil pressure sensor there so I can put the temp probe in the filter housing.

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6 minutes ago, Southpole560 said:

Do you know what size it is? If it's 1/4 I might be able to get an adapter and relocate my oil pressure sensor there so I can put the temp probe in the filter housing.

The plug I think is 1/4". Here is a picture of where the my switch is screwed in.

post-10340-138698187687_thumb.jpg

It is just below the injector lines. Round with a red and black wire sticking out of it.

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@Southpole560 @dripley the plug is NOT 1/4" it is a metric straight thread that seals with an o ring. I hsd a hard time finding the right adapter to go to 1/8" pipe and posted the thread size and Parker part number on here somewhere. I'll try to find it and post a link.

Screenshot_2020-03-05-20-03-41.png

M10x1.0 thread. Part number listed is for m10 to 1/8" pipe. I used a 1/8 to 4an fitting to a braided hose to mount my oil pressure sender. Its electric and does not ground through the threads. I used a hose to keep the sender away from all the vibration might help it live longer

Edited by Gregturley
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41 minutes ago, Gregturley said:

@Southpole560 @dripley the plug is NOT 1/4" it is a metric straight thread that seals with an o ring. I hsd a hard time finding the right adapter to go to 1/8" pipe and posted the thread size and Parker part number on here somewhere. I'll try to find it and post a link.

Screenshot_2020-03-05-20-03-41.png

M10x1.0 thread. Part number listed is for m10 to 1/8" pipe. I used a 1/8 to 4an fitting to a braided hose to mount my oil pressure sender. Its electric and does not ground through the threads.

I remember this because I still have your plug waiting to go into mine if I ever get home long enough to do anything. If I am not mistaken the part you had to buy is what my oil pressure switch is connected to then screws into the block.

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@dripley correct. 1/8" pipe will screw into the hole but it is not right. I would not trust it at all. 

 I wanted a m10 to 4an fitting but Parker didn't have it on the shelf and I'm impatient. 

 Used that fitting which is m10 male to 1/8" female pipe with 1/8" pipe male to 4an male adapter and its leak free.

I was wondering why you didn't remember that. Thought maybe i mixed you up with someone else.

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11 minutes ago, Gregturley said:

@dripley correct. 1/8" pipe will screw into the hole but it is not right. I would not trust it at all. 

 I wanted a m10 to 4an fitting but Parker didn't have it on the shelf and I'm impatient. 

 Used that fitting which is m10 male to 1/8" female pipe with 1/8" pipe male to 4an male adapter and its leak free.

I was wondering why you didn't remember that. Thought maybe i mixed you up with someone else.

I did say a few posts back it was straight thread the relied on an o ring to seal. Thats about all my memory was good for. The 1/4" was a guess.

 

Thanks for the clarification though.

Edited by dripley
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5 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Why all this?

 

Quadzilla Trans Temp Sensor screws right into the oil filter housing no fittings required. The hole is 1/8 NPT.

He has an oil pressure sender in the filter housing and was looking for a place to move it to.

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