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So when I bought my 01 3 years ago it came with the ABS and Brake light on and although we figured out the brake light being the entire pedal assembly was bad, we never could figure out why the abs light was on and why the module would buzz when plugged in. Fast forward last may doing axle shafts, find out the passenger side hub sensor had been cut somehow, so we replaced that and tried to plug it back on with a buzz still occuring whether the truck is on or off. I gave up on it as I had more pressing things to fix on it. Well quarantine has got me itching to fix something so I figured I'd dive in, and plugged it in and busted out our Bosch scan tool from oriellys, and all I get is "not detected" instead of "no codes". Would this be a bad module? I can't find anything else abs wise that is bad, all the wires are still connected where they're supposed to be. The rear speed sensor male plug's clip is broke but it stays in the sensor and I have a speedo so I don't think that is the problem. If anyone's got any ideas let me know! Thanks!

 

TL;DR Scan tool yields "not detected" for abs codes yet light is on and module is buzzing constantly whether truck is on or off.

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If it is just an inexpensive parts store scanner it is not going to read ABS codes. Even some of the pricier ones will read read the ABS any many vehicles but not ours. With the buzzing I am thinking there is a problem with the module. But lets see what others say.

Edited by dripley
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Just now, dripley said:

If it is just an inexpensive parts store scanner it is not going to read ABS codes. 

Why have an "abs" option then? Not saying you're wrong it's just strange! Could the constant humming be a bad module? I've read that could be the case.

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Most likely the module is running the ABS pump motor. The only thing you have do is remove the screws and pull the module up off the valve body. Then send it to Module Master and let them rebuild the module. It only cost $130 dollars and warrantied for 5 years. 

 

https://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/shop/brakes/abs-modules/abs-kh-dodge/

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7 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Most likely the module is running the ABS pump motor. The only thing you have do is remove the screws and pull the module up off the valve body. Then send it to Module Master and let them rebuild the module. It only cost $130 dollars and warrantied for 5 years. 

 

https://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/shop/brakes/abs-modules/abs-kh-dodge/

Sweet thank you sir! Are they still open with all this happening?

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1 hour ago, TheGreatWhite said:

Thank you! Appreciate the help and knowledge!

You're  welcome GW. Mike knows more about these things than I so I am happy he jumped in.

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There is a relay that can stick on that makes the pump run all the time, and module masters change the relay and few other wearable parts inside. I opened mine up thinking I was going to fix it,  what a pita just to open it, $130 is well worth just that. Got it opened and tested the relay it was good wasn't sure what else I could do so I send it to them. As usual with my luck there was nothing wrong with it but they changed all the wearable parts anyway. My problem ended up being a rear end sensor that I changed before and it didn't help that's why for so long I was chasing my problem in other places such as front well sensors then front hubs with sensors, then finally the module, all to come back on a new sensor in rear end. So my original rear sensor went bad, got a new one from car qwest like 5 years back it didn't fix the issue, been chasing it since then just to finally change the rear sensor again from rockauto just because I ran out of options and what do you know, it's fixed now after all unnecessary parts I changed. :ahhh:

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2 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

There is a relay that can stick on that makes the pump run all the time, and module masters change the relay and few other wearable parts inside. I opened mine up thinking I was going to fix it,  what a pita just to open it, $130 is well worth just that. Got it opened and tested the relay it was good wasn't sure what else I could do so I send it to them. As usual with my luck there was nothing wrong with it but they changed all the wearable parts anyway. My problem ended up being a rear end sensor that I changed before and it didn't help that's why for so long I was chasing my problem in other places such as front well sensors then front hubs with sensors, then finally the module, all to come back on a new sensor in rear end. So my original rear sensor went bad, got a new one from car qwest like 5 years back it didn't fix the issue, been chasing it since then just to finally change the rear sensor again from rockauto just because I ran out of options and what do you know, it's fixed now after all unnecessary parts I changed. :ahhh:

So was your rear sensor not showing any signs of being bad besides the buzzing? Like was your tach working and everything?. The only problem I can see with mine is the clip for the plug is broke and that's it.

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9 minutes ago, TheGreatWhite said:

So was your rear sensor not showing any signs of being bad besides the buzzing? Like was your tach working and everything?. The only problem I can see with mine is the clip for the plug is broke and that's it.

Not at all, only when I had it scanned with snap on it showed a code for rear sensor, so I changed it and no more abs/brake light on. My pump never buzzed for no reason as my module was never bad. If yours is buzing I'd say send it to ModuleMaster 

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On 3/27/2020 at 4:50 PM, TheGreatWhite said:

So when I bought my 01 3 years ago it came with the ABS and Brake light on and although we figured out the brake light being the entire pedal assembly was bad, we never could figure out why the abs light was on and why the module would buzz when plugged in. Fast forward last may doing axle shafts, find out the passenger side hub sensor had been cut somehow, so we replaced that and tried to plug it back on with a buzz still occuring whether the truck is on or off. I gave up on it as I had more pressing things to fix on it. Well quarantine has got me itching to fix something so I figured I'd dive in, and plugged it in and busted out our Bosch scan tool from oriellys, and all I get is "not detected" instead of "no codes". Would this be a bad module? I can't find anything else abs wise that is bad, all the wires are still connected where they're supposed to be. The rear speed sensor male plug's clip is broke but it stays in the sensor and I have a speedo so I don't think that is the problem. If anyone's got any ideas let me know! Thanks!

 

TL;DR Scan tool yields "not detected" for abs codes yet light is on and module is buzzing constantly whether truck is on or off.

As someone who's chasing my own abs ghosts, no scanner reads our abs codes unless its an expensive snap on scanner or the dealers scanner.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/28/2020 at 9:09 AM, TheGreatWhite said:

Would it be possible to take the module off and still drive the truck? Or should I yank the one off my 2000 that's also broke and send it to them and swap them when I get it back?

You can still drive the truck, but your speedometer and odometer will no longer work. I think the tachometer still worked if I remember correctly.(easier to gauge speed with manual transmission and engine sound per gear for the speed I need to travel) Unfortunately mine still buzzes to this day, after sending it in twice. Module masters customer service was amazing. They didn't charge me to send it back for the 2nd fix, and then they reimbursed me for initial fix after the 2nd fix didn't work. I wish it worked, but something else must be causing mine to fry when I reinstall it back into the truck. 

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7 hours ago, Alexio Auditore said:

I wish it worked, but something else must be causing mine to fry when I reinstall it back into the truck. 

Wonder if it could be the pump itself somehow staying on once you connect module to it. Have you hot wired the pump to see if it works ok, maybe see if it's drawing too many amps, idk. ...

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I did. They repaired it again, it went out again. They were very helpful and reimbursed me for it all. I would recommend module Master just for the fact that they were very helpful, even tho my module is just a bigger piece of crap than everyone else's, or that something else on the truck is causing it to go bad.

 

But again to answer @TheGreatWhite, you can drive without the module, you just won't have some of your gauge cluster or miles working while you get it repaired.

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1 minute ago, Alexio Auditore said:

I did. They repaired it again, it went out again. They were very helpful and reimbursed me for it all. I would recommend module Master just for the fact that they were very helpful, even tho my module is just a bigger piece of crap than everyone else's, or that something else on the truck is causing it to go bad.

 

But again to answer @TheGreatWhite, you can drive without the module, you just won't have some of your gauge cluster or miles working while you get it repaired.

So question. Is it possible, since I have 2 trucks, to swap out modules, or are they bound to the truck?

I

If not, I may see if the one off my 00 auto works, and if not I'll send it off and throw it on my truck once it's fixed.

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From what I remember reading on here, they are set for there own truck. I believe there is a very small possibility that you can switch them and they work interchangeably, but I believe there Vin numbers have to match closely, and there are alot out there. @Mopar1973Man I believe can answer this question much better than I can.

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2 hours ago, Alexio Auditore said:

But again to answer @TheGreatWhite, you can drive without the module, you just won't have some of your gauge cluster or miles working while you get it repaired.

 

Yes you can but...

  • Grid heater will not shut off above 20 MPH so be aware. Battery charge time needs to be extended.
  • Cruise control doesn't work need to be above 30 MPH to set..
  • High idle will work but will not cancel from no speed signal.
  • Speedometer will not work. Lack of signal.
  • Might impact automatic trans being road speed is considered. 
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