Time for New Injectors, will 7x10s be ok with stock turbo

[CAMG3X]

I'm wondering if that's the cause of my high idle as well. I installed a wells apps last year and it has idled around 860rpms ever since. Checked the voltage at 0.56v when I installed, but I probably should check it again. 

DAP injectors only have 15k miles on them, so was hard to believe that they would loose pop that fast. Engine load jumps around from 2-6% at warm idle. 

[hdpwipmonkey]

5 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Weird... Idle should be 800 RPM period. I wonder if the crank sensor on your truck is tired? Any other error codes? (If any).The only time this is above 800 RPM is when the APPS switches to THROTTLING then the idle software is shut off. This would cause the high idle. 

 

I've got to ask again another weird one Stock APPS of Timbo's APPS? A bad APPS with the throttle line still grounded would make it idle high and low engine load. Could be a possible an error code for APPS possibly? This is common for someone that has tapered with the voltage. I would replace the APPS with a Timbo APPS but that's me. 

Nope, no error codes.  I never messed with the APPS, its still stock as far as I know.  The idle has come down from where it was before the injector install.  It used to be close to 950 so it has improved.  Is it that big of a deal if its high?

 

I also just replaced the crank sensor on my truck (at least I think it was the crank sensor, the one behind the starter).

Edited October 2, 2020 by hdpwipmonkey
added more info

[Mopar1973Man]

I would consider the APPS because its NOT in idle mode. When in idle mode it ignores the APPS signal and uses the ECM software. Being your APPS is still throttling mode its following the voltage hence why it never reaching 800 RPM.

 

Unplug the APPS it should force ECM idle being no signal is provided. It will trip a code for p0122 again.

[hdpwipmonkey]

2 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I would consider the APPS because its NOT in idle mode. When in idle mode it ignores the APPS signal and uses the ECM software. Being your APPS is still throttling mode its following the voltage hence why it never reaching 800 RPM.

 

Unplug the APPS it should force ECM idle being no signal is provided. It will trip a code for p0122 again.

OK, I will unplug the APPS and see what it does.  Unplug it then start it or unplug it while its running? 

[Mopar1973Man]

Unplug and then start. Not good to break connection while powered up. Then shutdown and hook up then clear the codes

[hdpwipmonkey]

Ok, this is after unplugging the APPS.  It still idled at the same rpm.

 

This is after resetting the APPS.  This was also after it was a little warmer too.

 

It may even go lower once it's at full operating temp 

 

[Mopar1973Man]

Ok another thought do you ever reach 195 to 197°Fworth of coolant? Cold engines will amp up idle. As coolant goes down it adds idle RPM. Might need just a thermostat.

[hdpwipmonkey]

Yeah, I usually run about 195F but it wasn't up to normal operating temp yet.  I just took a quick drive to the store when I got the last screenshot.  I'll see where it idles tomorrow once I get to work.  That is a far enough drive to get it to 195F.

[hdpwipmonkey]

This was after my ride to work last night. 

 

Still high rpms but it wasn't at 195 either.  I did notice it was up over 195 while I was driving then the thermostat must of opened and it dropped down to around 188 then started climbing again. 

[Mopar1973Man]

I'm going to have to say my gut feeling is your APPS sensor isn't right in calling IDLE mode from the validation switch. I know we unplugged it and checked butt we haven't replaced it to verify your current APPS.

[hdpwipmonkey]

I could buy a Timbo and keep this one for a spare... What's another $200 

 

It does drop to 800 rpm when it's in drive... Does that count? 

Edited October 5, 2020 by hdpwipmonkey

[hdpwipmonkey]

Got the headstuds installed today.   Torqued to 40, 80, 125 ft/lbs (as per the instructions from ARP).  That last torque was a killer.  My back is sore again and my shoulders are gonna hurt tomorrow... 

 

Gonna drive it a couple of days then re-torque them and change the oil.

 

Also, I noticed there is not much clearance between the valve cover and the studs in the very front.  Hopefully its sealed.  I imagine its the same for the studs in the very rear also.  I went for a quick drive around the block and didnt see any leaking so fingers crossed 

Edited October 9, 2020 by hdpwipmonkey

[dripley]

1 hour ago, hdpwipmonkey said:

That last torque was a killer.  My back is sore again and my shoulders are gonna hurt tomorrow... 

When I replaced my HG I just reused the stock bolts. It was a 3 step process too. I forget the torque numbers and the first two steps were pretty easy. The last step was turn the bolts 90* more. That was a chore as you mention above. 

Edited October 9, 2020 by dripley