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jlwelding

Torquing Head Bolts

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jlwelding

I have read so much I dont know what to belive. It sounds posable that I may have a weak bolt that is not pulling it down right. I checked them all the best I could. So here is what I torqed them to 50 first time around then 77 and rechecked 77 again, then 90 degree.What do you think?

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RPM

My service manual says;

Starting at top center, tighten all cylinder head bolts, in sequence, to 68 N·m (50 ft. lbs.) torque. Repeat procedure, tighten all cylinder head bolts to 143 N·m (105 ft. lbs.) torque. Repeat procedure to confirm that all bolts are at 143 N·m (105 ft. lbs.) torque.

If you suspect a weak bolt I would replace it before you end up breaking it off and you have to pull the head. Just my 2 cents.

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dually

When you put a new hg on it will crush.I ran it a few times up to temp with vary low boost.Then check your valve lash again.I had to retorque mine(head studs).Head bolts are like food in the refridge when in doubt throw it out.Follow the manual that RPM posted that extra 90* stuff is bunk.105 is 105.

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Blueox01

When you put a new hg on it will crush.I ran it a few times up to temp with vary low boost.Then check your valve lash again.I had to retorque mine(head studs).

Head bolts are like food in the refridge when in doubt throw it out.

Follow the manual that RPM posted that extra 90* stuff is bunk.105 is 105.

My manual says 50,77,recheck 77,90 degrees that was done 330k ago. The gasket should have come with a bolt stretch guide to check.When i did mine called Cummins,Frieghtliner,Dodge nobody stocked new bolts and had'nt had in inventory for quite some time(sorta indicated to me they don't get replaced very often):2cents:

--- Update to the previous post...

My service manual says;

Starting at top center, tighten all cylinder head bolts, in sequence, to 68 N·m (50 ft. lbs.) torque. Repeat procedure, tighten all cylinder head bolts to 143 N·m (105 ft. lbs.) torque. Repeat procedure to confirm that all bolts are at 143 N·m (105 ft. lbs.) torque.

If you suspect a weak bolt I would replace it before you end up breaking it off and you have to pull the head. Just my 2 cents.

This is correct for V-6/V-8 GAS engines,V-10 43ft lbs,then 105ft lbs:smart:

--- Update to the previous post...

I have read so much I dont know what to belive. It sounds posable that I may have a weak bolt that is not pulling it down right. I checked them all the best I could. So here is what I torqed them to 50 first time around then 77 and rechecked 77 again, then 90 degree.

What do you think?

Your correct doing it this procedure!

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dually

I have never met or talked to any guy or gal that torques head bolts like that(extra90*)Do what you want.To me it is the most inaccurate way to do such an important job.I have arp studs at 130, 57 lbs of boost no problem however i have a o- ringed head.

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RPM

My manual says 50,77,recheck 77,90 degrees that was done 330k ago. The gasket should have come with a bolt stretch guide to check.When i did mine called Cummins,Frieghtliner,Dodge nobody stocked new bolts and had'nt had in inventory for quite some time(sorta indicated to me they don't get replaced very often):2cents:

--- Update to the previous post...

This is correct for V-6/V-8 GAS engines,V-10 43ft lbs,then 105ft lbs:smart:

--- Update to the previous post...

Your correct doing it this procedure!

Dang, I'm an idiot I guess I failed to look at the correct page. Under the 5.9 DIESEL (Duh) is says:

Lightly lubricate head bolts with engine oil and

install. Using the sequence shown in (Fig. 30),

tighten bolts in the following steps:

(a) Torque bolts to 80 N·m (59 ft. lbs.)

(b) Torque bolts to 105 N·m (77 ft. lbs.)

© Re-check all bolts to 105 N·m (77 ft. lbs.)

(d) Tighten all bolts an additional ¼ turn (90°)

I did read in Diesel Power Magazine though that they were recommending a 125 ft/lb re-torque on one to their project trucks. For what it’s worth.

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Wild and Free

I have never met or talked to any guy or gal that torques head bolts like that(extra90*) Do what you want.To me it is the most inaccurate way to do such an important job. I have arp studs at 130, 57 lbs of boost no problem however i have a o- ringed head.

You need to realize that you are after a clamping effect rather than a specific torque. New fasteners are designed to stretch and give the clamp effect. This is important in head gaskets as they tend to compress over time and heat cycles and having a stretch on the fasteners will allow them to keep the head pulled down and still retain a specific torque value at the same time. This is why you do not have to do several retorques like you do with studs, you are taking up the gasket compression through retorques versus the fasteners doing it through the initial 90* stretch factor which will allow the fastener to do it naturally. There are many many high performance engine builders be it cummins or others who use nothing but factory head bolts without any issues.

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white01

ok..my opinon is like a welding rod 6010 stands for 60,000 lbs of tensile strength and a very brittle rod...7018 stands for 70,000 lbs of tensile strength and is a way better rod for welding stuff up...all studs,bolts ,fasteners have a tensile strength. i know john force making 8,000 h.p. isn't running stock bolts for clamping...or sled pullers running 50 to 150 p.s.i. of boost.....just saying a :2cents: worth

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Wild and Free

or sled pullers running 50 to 150 p.s.i. of boost.....just saying a :2cents: worth

I think you would be shockingly surprised.:) Don't be comparing apples to eggs now.:nono:

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white01

i have lines that i work on at the refinery that heat up and cool down every single day....we install steel gaskets on these lines because they will reach up 910* and when they get down with the line it is cooled down and when stuff cools down it relaxes..and whatever temp it is outside the line is the same temp..and so instead of in stalling b7m studs..we install b16 studs for the strength,stretching, and have a higher heat tolerance.

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RPM
I have seen a lot of initial installs that recommend a degree method to finish off the stud but it is interesting that people recommend a 125 ft/lb re-torque on stock bolts for these engines.

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smokeythedodge

I have seen a lot of initial installs that recommend a degree method to finish off the stud but it is interesting that people recommend a 125 ft/lb re-torque on stock bolts for these engines.

Never bought into that 125 retorque rumor. i always just follow the book's instructions, give them that final 1/4 turn. No problems yet.

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jlwelding

I just bought 1/2 oz bottle, sounds right to me. I am going to try one more gasket and see what happens. And check the block, surely the head is ok ,they just resurfaced it.Oh yea I need to include the JL factor. lmaoThere is a Freightliner store close by I am going to check them out tomorrow, what name brand am I looking for besides Cummins. The last gasket was a Felpro. Check this out I called Dodge yesterday and they wonted 185.00 my cost (shop), reg. cost was 210.00

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Terry C

I have not heard good things about Felpro headgaskets. Not quite as bad as the MLS gaskets for 12valves, but not good things. Try going HERE and get the .020 gasket. I got one not that long ago and the only gasket not included was the intake horn gasket. Also the price was reasonable too. They also send a bolt stretch gauge.

RPM has the correct procedure for STOCK bolts. Like Wild and Free said, you are going for clamping force, not actual bolt torque numbers.

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jlwelding

Thanks to all who replyed I really appreciate the help. And I will order gasket set tomorrow if they are open. Thanks again

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LiveOak

Joe, between this truck and the 4030, sounds like you have your hands full. Best of luck getting everything back together and running right. :thumbup2:

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dually

I have done business with mumau diesel on more than one occasion.Jeff is a good guy to deal with.He will set you up.I have a 0.20 over and want to change it out for a factory 24v gasket.I had plans to hammer on it hard with nitrous.So i lowered the compression a point or so.It smokes good in the winter at start up and the bottom end is weaker a little.My plans changed with the amount of nitrous i will run.So i am going back to a factory 24v gasket.I would ask Jeff about the 0.20 and see what he has to say about it.If you have a mild dd my bet is he will want to sell you a factory 24v.His price should be around 110.00.+ shipping You could even check how much they took off your head to make it flat and with that info get the proper hg.

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