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It is definitely in parallel. I have an off-on switch to "disconnect" it while I start the engine, then turn it on - so the grid heater works. Also this way I can keep it off during the summer. Yea, I have other things I need to do now, so I will change the wiring and switch next spring to make it so either - or is being used. I don't drive the truck every day so any increase in mileage I would get by hooking it up the correct way won't hurt too much. Thanks for your help.

I forgot you had the switch, leave it off if it's over 70-80F out as the IAT will just be seeing the same temps as the "fooled temp". I think I would just leave it. Mike told me the highest he has ever seen out of his truck for as long as he has noticed IAT temps was 174F up a long hill or something. According to his chart, 173F is 1200 ohms, so I'll just say 1150 ohms for the extra degree. Calculating it out, your computer would be seeing 755 ohms which I am betting is 200F based on his chart (only goes to 184 @ 1000 ohms so I based it off exponential guesstimates since the curve is very flat at that temp). I really don't think you will ever see a problem. I'd like to hear what everyone else has seen for max IAT temps though. If that is the highest most people see then I would leave it all how it is, you shouldn't be using it in summer anyways. The worst that could happen is it throws a code.. I don't think the VP44 trucks have a limp mode and if they do I have yet to read about a person have it go into limp mode.
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  • 2 weeks later...

In addition to the Winter fronts and resistors you might try a thermal blanket kit on the engine and to insulate the hood. This would hold is a LOT more heat that would normally be lost that the engine has to work make up for and compensate. They are not cheap but neither is diesel fuel. If it helps save on fuel, it may be worth it. http://www.atpwrap.com/html/dodgeram.html

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I have a 4-switch box from Prowelder and like it a lot. I just got winter fronts and have the block heater on for about 3 hours before I drive it in the mornings. I'm outside Chicago, so it can get relatively cold. I turn on high idle or 3cyl high idle if the engine is cold until coolant is around 80F. IAT is fooled to 143F whenever I'm not warming up. Smarty on 1, TST on 0.My last tank was 495 miles, 24.006 gal, DSL was 3.72/gal, I added 14 oz of 2-stroke (3.50/quart). That is 20.62 mpg and 18.6 cents per mile. I don't drive more than 55 (the limit) and have a 36 mile commute each way; about 20 mi interstate, 6 local highway, and 10 in town-ish. During the summer I tune my truck for performance, not mileage, and get about 117 avg. Over the 13,000 miles I've owned my truck my overall mileage is 19 mpg at an average cost of 21 cents/mile.I can't say for certain what impact the IAT fooler has made considering the other things I've done for mileage. I'll report back later this winter when things are colder and I have a good winter baseline. That way I can remove only the IAT fooler and leave everything else static.

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I have a 4-switch box from Prowelder and like it a lot. I just got winter fronts and have the block heater on for about 3 hours before I drive it in the mornings. I'm outside Chicago, so it can get relatively cold. I turn on high idle or 3cyl high idle if the engine is cold until coolant is around 80F. IAT is fooled to 143F whenever I'm not warming up. Smarty on 1, TST on 0. My last tank was 495 miles, 24.006 gal, DSL was 3.72/gal, I added 14 oz of 2-stroke (3.50/quart). That is 20.62 mpg and 18.6 cents per mile. I don't drive more than 55 (the limit) and have a 36 mile commute each way; about 20 mi interstate, 6 local highway, and 10 in town-ish. During the summer I tune my truck for performance, not mileage, and get about 117 avg. Over the 13,000 miles I've owned my truck my overall mileage is 19 mpg at an average cost of 21 cents/mile. I can't say for certain what impact the IAT fooler has made considering the other things I've done for mileage. I'll report back later this winter when things are colder and I have a good winter baseline. That way I can remove only the IAT fooler and leave everything else static.

Did you have to cut into the wire harness ?
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