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m109rrider

truck not starting, possible security key problem?

14 posts in this topic

I have an 05 with the "chip key", I also have a audiovox 670 2 way alarm/remote start. On a couple occasions the truck wouldn't start with the key but would by remote start. The truck would crank but the security light on the dash flashes. I assume it's a problem with my key....does that sound right? Only thing is the remote start is only supposed to bypass the security key during remote starts, once the key is inserted, turned to run and brake is depressed it cancels the remote start and returns the security to normal. The truck always stays runningPosted Image Anyways, I only have one key and the price Dodge wants for a new key is fuggin ridiculous. I found blank chip keys online for around $15 (My dealer wants $75 before programming). They would still need to be cut and programed by a dealer/locksmith. Anyone ever use these keys? Am I missing something with my diagnosis?

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Subscribed to learn more... :popcorn:

me too! :popcorn::lmao:

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x3!!!!! I don't have a clue. If'n it were an earlier model, we might have a chance.:smart: Not so on the 3rd gens.:doh:That said, any codes come up???:shrug: Just a thought..........if so, it may lead us to the problem.

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No codes...just cranks and doesn't start. Get out, hit the remote start it fires right up. It's done this about 3 times in the last 6 months.

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have you tried disconnecting the alarm and remote starter to see if it starts normaly? the problem could be in that system.

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Honestly the alarm system is cool but not something I would have installed. It does just about everything, keyless entry, rolls up windows, turns lights on/off, paging etc. I can even set it up to start the truck at a certain time everyday or start it every couple hours and shut it back off 15 minutes later. I have thought of removing the system but I think I'd have to take it somewhere. I didn't install it and there's wires running/spliced/tapped in everywhere. Plus it's so random. Like I said before, it's only done it a few times in the six months I've had the truck. I may just go ahead and have it removed. The truck did also come with a ton of stereo/av equipment which I assume is the reason the alarm was installed....fuggit, I have insurance:lmao2:

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that does sound pretty cool. did not realize it was that sophisticated. thought you might be able to unplug it and not unsplice it. my banks systems just unplugs and i am back to stock. easy to eliminate it as a problem. wish i could be more help.

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Problem is, most of the time, if it's a quality install they would have soldered the remote start wires with the ignition wires under the steering column. If not, they probably spliced it or used butt connectors, If so eliminate the remote start from where it's tapped and rewire only the wires as if it were factory.

You may also have to check if the remote start is tapped into one of your injector wires as well, as that's where it gets it's signal from.

Unfortunately, disconnecting it's power will only prevent it from starting, as it's tied into the ignition.

--- Update to the previous post...

That's only if the injectors are EUI, which I don't know how they are on your year truck.

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Your SKIM unit is being interrupted by a faulty bypass unit. The bypass for the remote start needs replaced. As far as the key goes, there is the tan or gray sentry key, they are both different. Figure out what color yours is by doing some google research and order a cheapy blank. Take it to Wal-Mart and have it cut. Make sure they use the key cut box for the black head keys. Then go out to your truck and use your new key to turn the ign. on 3 times leaving it on with the 3rd turn. When the key light starts to blink crank the ign. over to start and the key is programmed. Some of these trucks (50/50) have a locked SKIM unit so in that case you WILL have to go to the dealer for them to unlock the SKIM and program your key. You will obviously know the SKIM is locked when it wont accept the new key. Hope this helps.

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Cool, I'll give the new key a try and look into the bypass, thanks!

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No problem man. Spent way to many years as a 12Volt professional so figured I would share some knowledge. There are a few other known programming methods that I will try to post for ya when I dig out some paperwork.

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I'll be damned, the new key works and I didn't need 2 keys to program it. Thanks for the help.

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