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Precision is a very good joint. Depends on the conditions you run under, if in need of strength go non greasable if going for peace of mind knowing they are lubed with less need for strength go greasable. Personally I would stick with non greasables as I find they last just as long or longer than greasable joints. Most times people do not grease them with the correct grease and it shortens the life considerabley.

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I went with greaseable just because i am not planning on doing hard 4wd drag racing for a wile.Just grease them often and wipe off the zerk before you shoot them with grease.Yes they are weaker.If you dont do any boosted 4wd runs you should be fine.Oh yes i almost forgot thats the brand i am running also.It is a good joint.

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I thought there was never such thing as "over greasing"? :shrug:

--- Update to the previous post...

The more grease, the better... is what I've been told.

Its all about expansion contraction. If the seals are full of grease to where the grease is hanging out then the seal is not sealing and that lets dirt and water in through the process of heat related expansion and contraction. Dirt can migrate back inside the cups through this process not to mention water if the seals are purged and held open with excessive grease. This is the biggest reason non greasable joints usually last longer in normal operating conditions.

The same is true with leaking seals/gaskets on any components. If oil can seap out then dirt can be drawn back in.

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Its all about expansion contraction. If the seals are full of grease to where the grease is hanging out then the seal is not sealing and that lets dirt and water in through the process of heat related expansion and contraction. Dirt can migrate back inside the cups through this process not to mention water if the seals are purged and held open with excessive grease. This is the biggest reason non greasable joints usually last longer in normal operating conditions. The same is true with leaking seals/gaskets on any components. If oil can seap out then dirt can be drawn back in.

Thanks W+F. You put it into the words I wish I could have but that is pretty much what I was thinking.
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Hey I manage a NAPA and we sell the Precision joints they are a good made in the USA joint. Also at a sales metting once I talked to a chassis parts engineer and he said that a factory lubed and sealed product is by far better thay one you have to lube for the reason of over lubing but he said that they tried to remove the fittings on the tie rods and ball joints and the techs would not buy them becase they were not greaseable so they put them back on. P.S. I just looked them joints up the regular good joint is a #374 and the super strength #270 both are greasable and both are a very good made in USA joint.

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Hey I manage a NAPA and we sell the Precision joints they are a good made in the USA joint. Also at a sales metting once I talked to a chassis parts engineer and he said that a factory lubed and sealed product is by far better thay one you have to lube for the reason of over lubing but he said that they tried to remove the fittings on the tie rods and ball joints and the techs would not buy them becase they were not greaseable so they put them back on. P.S. I just looked them joints up the regular good joint is a #374 and the super strength #270 both are greasable and both are a very good made in USA joint.

Hook it up! :lol:
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