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JOHNFAK

Retorque Head Bolts

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Are they stock head bolts?I have heard of some increasing the torque on them. Stock is 77 ft/lbs plus a 90° turn, puts them about 100ish ft/lbs. Some do re-torque them to about 120-130 ft/lbs, but they are a torque to yield bolt and some may stretch and need replaced, or worse yet break, if you do it. Get some ARP's and call it good.. Never need to worry again.

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Are they stock head bolts? I have heard of some increasing the torque on them. Stock is 77 ft/lbs plus a 90° turn, puts them about 100ish ft/lbs. Some do re-torque them to about 120-130 ft/lbs, but they are a torque to yield bolt and some may stretch and need replaced, or worse yet break, if you do it. Get some ARP's and call it good.. Never need to worry again.

yeah its the breaking in the block part that worries me. Just from what I have read there is a lot of debate on when you need headstuds. A lot of guys that do it for a living seem to think the stock bolts and a flat deck torqued to 90ftlbs + 90 degree ~ 125ft lbs is a great way to go until you get over 50psi and pushing higher HP - then really o-rings. Id hate to put $600-$1000 worth of headstuds in and still have a failure ......

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yeah its the breaking in the block part that worries me. Just from what I have read there is a lot of debate on when you need headstuds. A lot of guys that do it for a living seem to think the stock bolts and a flat deck torqued to 90ftlbs + 90 degree ~ 125ft lbs is a great way to go until you get over 50psi and pushing higher HP - then really o-rings. Id hate to put $600-$1000 worth of headstuds in and still have a failure ......

Yeah lots of people get away with high boost for a long time, and others don't. Personally I didn't want to worry about it when towing with the family so I put studs in. I only run about 30-33 psi with the new turbo, but flow is a lot higher and the cam also really improves flow.. so I am running more cylinder pressure at 30 psi than other are with the stock turbo/cam. I got my studs for $400, which is a pretty easy to obtain price. You don't need the ARP 625's, the standard 2000's (aka 425's) are plenty for what you want to do. You will be good with the 425's to 55ish psi, probably more. The 625's are for o-ring/fire ringed heads and LOTS of boost. They are super easy to install and cheap insurance if your running 35+ psi of boost.

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Factory bolts are fine up near 40lbs. However some run big boost with bolts but they torque them up in 5 lb increments twice. What i mean by that is, do all 26 at 5 then again. Then 10 twice and so on. That is with a new hg. Now i have studs. What i did is put a fresh hg on then i did all of them at 40,then 60, then 80, then 100,then 125, then 130. I also did all of them twice. The reason is, after all at 40 the first one is no longer at 40. Thats just what i do and it seems to work. As for retorque i loosen one and put arp lube on both sides of the washer and threads and do the 40,60,80,100,125,130.

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You will be good with the 425's to 55ish psi, probably more.

They are super easy to install and cheap insurance if your running 35+ psi of boost.

So since its a stud - it has no head/bolt on it right ? So how are these installed ? I also heard on some you had to TAP the bottom of the block out to hold the extra thread of the stud ?

:shrug:

--- Update to the previous post...

So since its a stud - it has no head/bolt on it right ? So how are these installed ? I also heard on some you had to TAP the bottom of the block out to hold the extra thread of the stud ?

:shrug:

did some reading

so looks like you can pull existing bolts out and do 1-by-1 as long as new gaskett which I have (1+ year).

Then replace with stud and hand tighten.

Then washers/stud head and torque to 90ft lbs

Then do all in sequence inner to outer

Then retorque all to 115 ft pounds - same sequnce

heat cycle

retorque to 125 ft lbs - same sequence

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So since its a stud - it has no head/bolt on it right ? So how are these installed ? I also heard on some you had to TAP the bottom of the block out to hold the extra thread of the stud ?

:shrug:

--- Update to the previous post...

did some reading

so looks like you can pull existing bolts out and do 1-by-1 as long as new gaskett which I have (1+ year).

Then replace with stud and hand tighten.

Then washers/stud head and torque to 90ft lbs

Then do all in sequence inner to outer

Then retorque all to 115 ft pounds - same sequnce

heat cycle

retorque to 125 ft lbs - same sequence

to expand on this.

i have the OEM gasket on the truck, and OEm studs, with a boost elbow going on the truck i plan to run about 30-33psi as well, but can i replace each stud 1-1 or do i have the replace the gasket as well?

Im considerijng either torquing the studs, or getting aftermarket ones what are your opinoins?

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Is there any trick to re-torquing the bolts between the two rockers besides taking them all off? Of do I just have to bite the bullet and take them off again and reset valve lash after each re-torque? I have yet to figure out a way to get a socket on there.

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You have to pull the rockers, but really it only takes about 30 minutes to pull the valve cover, rockers, re-torque and put it back together. I didn't redo the valve lash, nothing should change as the rockers don't effect the lash if they are put back in the same spot.

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What do you do if you ever take them out ? What I mean is - assume as you loosen the nut - it will just back off the top of the thread - but the stud is still sitting in the block ??

You remove the nut, and then the stud. The studs have allen heads in them.
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