it have to really shorten a story here. pulled my rv for the first time in a while. pulled it over the bluridge mountains at 22,700 total. notice on filllup that i had oil on the rv and the under carridge of the truck. check my oil and i have an extra quart in the crank case. figure i have a leaky injector or 2. been wanting some rv 275's for a while and ordered a set from DAP. GREAT PRICE AT $269 + $100 core. drove to my daughters house to install and sprung a coolant leak just before arriving. spent the day installing the rv's and then dealt with the coolant leak. from the best i could tell it was coming from the water pump. could not see it well enough to tell for sure, but it appeared to be streaming from the pulley on the water pump. got a new water pump and installed it. the leak was reduced but still there. every time i tightened the bolts a little more it got smaller. but i felt i was overtightening the bolts big time. it is late and i gave up on fixxing the leak tonight but wanted to drive the truck and see how the new injectors were working. so i put another gallon of water in her and took her for a spin. i mile out and one mile back. parked the truck and no water leak.temp is now at 180+, it has apparently stopped. and i cant make it leak now.have i missed something or do you have to drive the truck to seat the gasket? it was rubber and fit into a groove on the pump. does it take operation af the vehicle to seat this gasket?:shrug:

If the injectors or injection lines are empty they will air lock and act like a shock absorber and will not let the fuel through the lines very well if at all. This is where the cracking of the lines is needed to purge a lot of the air out of the lines. To describe it in an easier way put your finger over one end of a straw and put the straw under the faucet and try to fill the straw with water, you find the air in the straw prevents the water from entering because there is no way for the air to get out. Air doesn't compress the same as fluid.

correct me if i am wrong. with air in the line you cannot build enough pressure to pop the injectors and let the air out that way. the fuel just keeps bouncing off of the air. just like the straw.

  dripley said:

correct me if i am wrong. with air in the line you cannot build enough pressure to pop the injectors and let the air out that way. the fuel just keeps bouncing off of the air. just like the straw.

Exactly!

  Wild and Free said:

Exactly!

But by bleeding the lines, isn't this what agitated the weeping problem. Darned if you do & darned if you don't!:banghead: Dave

overtightning the nuts will contribute to that. i have loosened mine and retightened in the past with some succes. just kind of waiting and watching right now. they are moist but nothing is dripping off of the engine.

  dripley said:

overtightning the nuts will contribute to that. i have loosened mine and retightened in the past with some succes. just kind of waiting and watching right now. they are moist but nothing is dripping off of the engine.

Good Luck!

Alright got home this weekend to stop my fuel leaks. they just kept getting worse. All the injectors were leaking and the return lines also. I took every thing apart today. I cleaned both ends of the injector lines with a scotch brite. there was a little crud on 1/2 of them. I took the return lines off the back of the head and off of the vp cleaned all them and reinstalled. When did the tee I installed new orings. Picked them up at a cummins dealer and there were 6 of them. 3 that fit over the lines and 3 that fit in the tee. When i took it apart the oe only had 3 on the lines and none in the tee. Do any of yall have the orings in the tee?The banjo on the back of the head was not very tight so I removed it and put new sealing washers on it and tightened it back up.Now tomorrow I will takle the injectors. I going to do something differant that Mike said had worked for someone else with the same issue as me. I am going take out the connector tubes, unbolt the injectors, reinstall the connector tubes, torque the lines to the head, and then retorque the injectors. That is backwards from how I did it originally. Does any one have any thoughts? I sure dont want do this a third time.One more question. Does any one know what size socket it takes to remove the MAP sensor? figured I would clean it while I am in there. Did the IAT and it was black as coal, figure the MAP is probably the same.

  dripley said:

One more question. Does any one know what size socket it takes to remove the MAP sensor? figured I would clean it while I am in there. Did the IAT and it was black as coal, figure the MAP is probably the same.

1 1/4 or 1 1/16 in my case. Old one was the smaller size, new one was the larger. Also, deep socket.

The 1 1/8 I have is a little to big. Hope it is not metric.