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oil growmig and coolant shrinking


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opening the injectors will get the fuel to the injectors alot quicker. i ran mine out of fuel the first time not long after i bought and could not get it started until i opened them. as far as letting the lp do the work, i think i bumped 6 or 8 times before i got fuel up to the injectors. i tried sarting twice for about 5 or 10 seconds before it caught on the third try. i dont know how much a better way it si to do that way. but it seems i would save some wear on the starter.

Cool! Until it finally starts it seems it's forever too! I had my starter, Denso, down a few weeks back to change my crank sensor, for all the work it does I expected it to be much heavier.
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If the injectors or injection lines are empty they will air lock and act like a shock absorber and will not let the fuel through the lines very well if at all. This is where the cracking of the lines is needed to purge a lot of the air out of the lines. To describe it in an easier way put your finger over one end of a straw and put the straw under the faucet and try to fill the straw with water, you find the air in the straw prevents the water from entering because there is no way for the air to get out. Air doesn't compress the same as fluid.

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  • 2 months later...

Alright got home this weekend to stop my fuel leaks. they just kept getting worse. All the injectors were leaking and the return lines also. I took every thing apart today. I cleaned both ends of the injector lines with a scotch brite. there was a little crud on 1/2 of them. I took the return lines off the back of the head and off of the vp cleaned all them and reinstalled. When did the tee I installed new orings. Picked them up at a cummins dealer and there were 6 of them. 3 that fit over the lines and 3 that fit in the tee. When i took it apart the oe only had 3 on the lines and none in the tee. Do any of yall have the orings in the tee?The banjo on the back of the head was not very tight so I removed it and put new sealing washers on it and tightened it back up.Now tomorrow I will takle the injectors. I going to do something differant that Mike said had worked for someone else with the same issue as me. I am going take out the connector tubes, unbolt the injectors, reinstall the connector tubes, torque the lines to the head, and then retorque the injectors. That is backwards from how I did it originally. Does any one have any thoughts? I sure dont want do this a third time.One more question. Does any one know what size socket it takes to remove the MAP sensor? figured I would clean it while I am in there. Did the IAT and it was black as coal, figure the MAP is probably the same.

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One more question. Does any one know what size socket it takes to remove the MAP sensor? figured I would clean it while I am in there. Did the IAT and it was black as coal, figure the MAP is probably the same.

1 1/4 or 1 1/16 in my case. Old one was the smaller size, new one was the larger. Also, deep socket.
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