p1693 + P0500...

[Rogan]

p1693, p0500 SPEED SENSORSpeedo works fine.. No idea WTF I'm getting these for..

[dripley]

Spinning the rear tires will generate that code. I have set it in mine several times.

[Rogan]

ahh, makes sense. It's been spinning them lately, due to all the rain.. and my foot...

[Mopar1973Man]

From my article base...

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=29:antilock-braking-system-abs&catid=23&Itemid=107

Mopar's Notes: P0500 Error Code - Explained Since 4 wheel anti lock brakes rely on 2 front axle sensors and 1 rear wheel sensor. The CAB is watching the speed output from all 3 sensors at one time. So when on a slick surface like ice, gravel, wet pavement, etc. when you accelerate rapidly and cause the rear tires to spin the rear speed sensor jumps up in speed rapidly and the front 2 sensor could be at zero speed yet. So the CAB can't understand how the rear half of the truck is doing say 35 MPH and the front half is doing 0 MPH. POOF! P0500 code is thrown.

[dripley]

I like Rogan's explanation better. Rain and bigfoot make tires spin=P500.:tease:I like your version too Mike, thats how i learned about it.

[Pondsy]

Well...that takes care of one code lol! Off to search the other ones and see what I can find...thanks for the info

[craneop]

From my article base...

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=29:antilock-braking-system-abs&catid=23&Itemid=107

Mopar's Notes: P0500 Error Code - Explained Since 4 wheel anti lock brakes rely on 2 front axle sensors and 1 rear wheel sensor. The CAB is watching the speed output from all 3 sensors at one time. So when on a slick surface like ice, gravel, wet pavement, etc. when you accelerate rapidly and cause the rear tires to spin the rear speed sensor jumps up in speed rapidly and the front 2 sensor could be at zero speed yet. So the CAB can't understand how the rear half of the truck is doing say 35 MPH and the front half is doing 0 MPH. POOF! P0500 code is thrown.

Hi. New to the forum. Im having the same issue, exept my truck is setting off these two codes while I am in 4 wheel drive. ODB Scanner tool says Transmission P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor A.

Prior to this, I have been getting erratic torque converter lockup issues, i.e., shift hunting. I have read lots of threads, cleaned all my grounds, battry terminals, done the tin foil trick around the ground wire near the alternator, replaced the alternator, and just yesterday replaced the brake switch. I was not getting any codes until I switched the brake switch. May just be a coincidence, but I still have the shift hunting problem going on and now I am getting the P0500 Code.

What might be the issue here? Anyone with any idea's?

Thanks!

[Mopar1973Man]

Hi. New to the forum. Im having the same issue, exept my truck is setting off these two codes while I am in 4 wheel drive. ODB Scanner tool says Transmission P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor A.

Prior to this, I have been getting erratic torque converter lockup issues, i.e., shift hunting. I have read lots of threads, cleaned all my grounds, battry terminals, done the tin foil trick around the ground wire near the alternator, replaced the alternator, and just yesterday replaced the brake switch. I was not getting any codes until I switched the brake switch. May just be a coincidence, but I still have the shift hunting problem going on and now I am getting the P0500 Code.

What might be the issue here? Anyone with any idea's?

Thanks!

Try 2 thing...

[*]Disconnect the alternator fuse and go for a ride.

[*]Bench test the alternator have it test for diode pattern.

If disconnecting the alternator fixes the problem you know the alternator is the causes. Or you could have it bench tested and check for AC pattern being output from the alternator.

As for the P0500 code...

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/190-p0500-no-vehicle-speed-sensor-signal

[craneop]

Try 2 thing...

[*]Disconnect the alternator fuse and go for a ride.

[*]Bench test the alternator have it test for diode pattern.

If disconnecting the alternator fixes the problem you know the alternator is the causes. Or you could have it bench tested and check for AC pattern being output from the alternator.

As for the P0500 code...

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/190-p0500-no-vehicle-speed-sensor-signal

OK! Disconected the alternator fuse, truck drove and shifted with no more problems. Also found your article at http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/28-transmission-systems/260-torque-converter-lock-unlock-issues

I put the fuse back in and did the AC test with voltmeter and was reading anywhere from 0.0 - 0.24 Volts AC @ 1500 RPM. The new alternator must be the problem. I will take it back tomorrow and have them find a good one for me. I guess you should always have a new alternator bench tested before it leaves the store. Lesson learned. Thanks for the great advice and information. This problem has been driving me nuts for at least a week now! BTW I cleared the p500 code and it hasnt come back yet, so maybe it was just tire spin or something like that.

I will let you know the end result when I get the new alternator on the truck.

Thanks again!

[craneop]

Try 2 thing...

[*]Disconnect the alternator fuse and go for a ride.

[*]Bench test the alternator have it test for diode pattern.

If disconnecting the alternator fixes the problem you know the alternator is the causes. Or you could have it bench tested and check for AC pattern being output from the alternator.

As for the P0500 code...

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/190-p0500-no-vehicle-speed-sensor-signal

OK! Problem solved! Yippee!!!

Took the recently purchased Alternator back to O'Reilly's where I got it from, had them test it on their tester. They told me they run the test 3 times and if they get a PASS all three times, its a good alternator. When I asked about measuring AC Voltage, they looked dumbfounded, so I asked them if I could hook my multi-meter up to the alternator while they tested? They agreed! So now this alternator is reading .35 Volts AC as the first test PASS'S, they run the second test and we get a FAIL, the guy gives me a funny look, checks his wires and runs the third test and we get another FAIL. So the guy now rells me guess we have a bad alternator but they don't have another one on the shelf and I will need to wait till tomorrow to bring one in from the other store. I say, I'm OK with that, but that I've learned my lesson and we are going to have to test the next alternator as well before I leave the store with it. The next morning (yesterday) they call me and let me know the alternator is in and I can come down and pick it up. We do the test like before, and this time we get a PASS, PASS, PASS, however my multi-meter is reading 0.3 Volts AC, and then I also notice that on their machine there is a box at the top that says Diodes and across from that box on the screen says N/A. So I ask the guy about it and he says their machine has no way of testing the diodes, it only test for overall condition of the alternator. Unhappy with what I'm hearing and looking at, I request my money back which they had no problem with at all, however the core I earlier took in was no longer in the store so the gave me cash in the amount of $215.00 (their core charge on that alternator $36.00 along with the full purchace price of $179.00.)

By this time I have no core, only to find out all the other auto parts stores around town are charging a $70 - $80 core charge for this alterrnator, and a lot of the places have no tester. Starting to get a bit frustrated, I decided to quit messing around and go to the most reliable place in town I know of, a small family owned auto electric and mechanical shop (Auto Electric, Anchorage, Alaska). I was hoping that maybe they had heard of this isuue I am having with the TCL and get fixed up with a good alternator. They rebuild all kinds of auto electrical parts right there in house as well a run a full service auto mechanic shop. Well,,,,I explained my problem to them and showed them a printed copy of the troubleshooting procedure I got from the Mopa1973Man website, to which they said...never heard of this before. However these guys are real pro's and they didn't blow me off. They took my concerns seriously, brought two techs in out of the shop to talk with me about this, as I explainded to them the 0.1 Volt AC upper limit thing. They genuinly got concerned and were pulling down alternators, checking them on the bench and checking outputs at vehicles in the shop. In all, I was in there for about two hours while they tested and discussed and in the end the shop found me a NEW alternator and gave me a heck of a deal @ $239.00 w/no core charge. The NEW alternator was putting out 0.22 Volts AC on their alternator bench vise, and that concerned me cause I was looking for something under 0.1 VAC. However in further discussion, the techs I was working with concluded, (and BTW they turned out to be right), that the test machine itself was putting off AC Noise and that the Fluke Meter was picking up that AC Noise during the test, and that since the Voltage Regulator is on either the PCM or ECM, the only way to accuratly read out the AC output on this alternator was to put it on the vehicle and measure it at that time. So,,,I took the alternator home, hooked it all up, and WALLA... measured at the battries -0.01 Volts AC @idle, and 0.00 Volts AC @2000 RPM. Feeling pretty good at this point I take it for a test drive. Runs and shifts perfectly. NO MORE PROBLEMS!!!

Cory, I believe he's the manger or maybe owner, at Auto Electric said though he's heard and dealt with a lot of Dodge Cummins issues like this before, had never heard of this shifting problem being linked to + 0.10 VAC output on the alternator. He asked me to check back in with him to let him know how all this worked out. I will do that on Monday, as well as express my thanks for all the personal attention, efforts and concerns Auto Electric gave to me to adress my problem.

In the meantime, my utmost gratitude to Mopar1973Man for sharing your knoweledge and wisdom on this issue. I had tried all the bandaid tricks only to have them each work for anywhere to a couple hours to a couple days or so and then reappear. I believe what was happening was that as I fixed a ground or foiled a wire, it masked the problem just long enough for the diodes on the alternator to get a little worse and then BOOM, the problem is back!

Very good information Mopar1973Man!!!

Happy Holidays!!!

[Mopar1973Man]

Very educational to find out most shop are NOT testing diodes and just checking for DC output.