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Made my own shortbed bracket for my AD150


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I posted this over on CumminsForum and I figured that it'd be useful here too.

I recently purchased an Airdog 150 for my truck and wanted to mount it where it would be protected by the skid plate. I knew that AD used to make a shortbed bracket, and I've seen a few of them on this forum and others, so I set out to make my own.

I bought some 1/4" steel plates from lowes and cut/drilled it to copy one of the supplied airdog plates. Then I welded another steel plate perpendicular to that plate and drilled a few holes for the AD bracket. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about so far:

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Here's a shot with the bracket bolted on:

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I found an old inner tube and cut a piece out to fit in between the brackets to reduce vibrations.

Here's a few shots of it loosly sitting in the desired spot:

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And here it is all hooked up:

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You'll need to get some 90° push-lock fittings and adapters if you plan to do this as the straight quick-connect fittings won't work.

I got all my stuff from Eric at Vulcan Performance. I told him what I was doing and he sent me everything I needed. The Draw Straw V (DSV) that they put together at Vulcan is a very well designed product.

After it was all said and done I've got 13psi showing on my ISSPRO gauge, which also came from Vulcan. I'm using the isolator and a snubber, but I'm wondering if I'd be better off just running straight diesel into the gauge with a needle valve. Is the snubber still needed if you use a needle valve?

Anyway, this was a very simple mount to make. All I needed was a Sawzall, drill, and my Mig Welder. If you don't have a welder then you could simply cut and drill everything you want, and then mark where you want the two plates joined and a machine shop or even muffler shop would probably do it for very cheap. You can't tell from my pictures, but the plates aren't actually joined end-to-end. The plate with the pump mount on it actually extends about an inch or two past weld. There's a fairly large hole in the frame and that extending piece of metal kinda acts as a stop to keep the pump from vibrating into the tank. This might make more sense to you when you get under the truck and look in that spot.

This spot just apealed to me because the skid plate for the T-Case guards the filters. Even if you do nothing but road driving I still think you'd want your filters protected like this. I can only imagine some stupid armadillo hopping up into the fuel filter while I'm driving 55 on a dirt road... much less rocks, tree limbs, or dirt mounds when I take it off road. I plan to put a notch in the skid plate so that I can get the filter off if I tilt it on an angle, that way I'll be able to do road-side filter changes if needed without any tools.

One more thing: There's plenty of room to mount your pump in this spot. I should be able to get to the T-Case fluid refil plug without any problems, and the factory fuel/brake lines aren't that big of an issue. I just unbolted their clip from the frame, and ziptied some of that innertube to them to keep them from rubbing.

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I wonder if it has to do with my isolator? I can't understand the instructions when it says that it's okay if there's a little air in the lines going to the gauge. I can see it loosing some PSI through the snubber, the isolator, and line filled with a different substance and air.

If I go get some oil pressure line and then just plumb it in to my gauge from my T in the fuel line then should I use a needle valve and the snubber?

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post-10340-138698185452_thumb.jpgThis is how I have mine installed. Learned it here. I have had no trouble with this install. It goes straight to a mechanical gauge. Nothing but a needle valve.I do recomend using a differant tubing. What I have now is nylon. Polyon tubing is better and I have some to replace it with, but have not found the time to replace it yet.
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