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Torque Converter Lock / Unlock Issues

Mopar1973Man
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  • 2 weeks later...
deej

deej

Posted
Posted

Just got back from a trip after getting the Alternator rebuilt, and the tranny was flawless both ways, not once did it unlock and lock.  I am, becoming a real believer.  Thanks for the help on getting this finally fixed!!!  

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  • 2 weeks later...
drag racer

drag racer

Posted
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Been chasing the dreaded TCC  issue on and off for years.  Started off with BD noise filter...it worked - for awhile, then issue came back.  Found this great thread - checked alternator....AC current 0.013 VAC at alternator, 0.029 VAC at battery - alternator diodes good, but problem still there :-(.  Reading everything I could find to finally solve this, and getting desperate as I am about to tow my new 42' gooseneck trailer for the first time soon and I cannot have the converter doing this and not locking up.

 

Latest fix attempts - 1) did APPS reset and 2) relocated the portion of the big ground cable running right next to the alternator away from it (one of many fixes I discovered).  Drove truck yesterday after doing those two things, and voila - back to normal :thumb1: .  Not sure which one or if both did it, but I hope it lasts this time!

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moparisthebest

moparisthebest

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I can't seem to get rid of this issue either, I replaced the alternator twice, and ended up returning them both and going back to my original because the issue stayed the same.  I even ran with the fuse pulled like this thread suggests, with no change (it still locks/unlocks).  The transmission has been rebuilt, TC replaced, I've wrapped wires near the alternator with tin foil and duct tape, I even put a small capacitor in between the tranny line and ground to try to smooth the current (and later removed it, since it had no effect either).

 

The APPs is pretty new too, since I replaced it when I first bought the truck (dead pedal).

 

I'm completely out of ideas, what else can I do?

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Dieselfuture

Dieselfuture

Posted
Posted

I can't seem to get rid of this issue either, I replaced the alternator twice, and ended up returning them both and going back to my original because the issue stayed the same. I even ran with the fuse pulled like this thread suggests, with no change (it still locks/unlocks). The transmission has been rebuilt, TC replaced, I've wrapped wires near the alternator with tin foil and duct tape, I even put a small capacitor in between the tranny line and ground to try to smooth the current (and later removed it, since it had no effect either).

The APPs is pretty new too, since I replaced it when I first bought the truck (dead pedal).

I'm completely out of ideas, what else can I do?

Test alternator for diodes at good shop that know what they're doing, I tested mine at orilys and it was good, then on some old school analog machine and nidle was almost all the way on bad for diodes, but still was good on charge. And make sure if you use voltmeter to rev the engine up slowly and you'll see ac voltage will go up.

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moparisthebest

moparisthebest

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Test alternator for diodes at good shop that know what they're doing, I tested mine at orilys and it was good, then on some old school analog machine and nidle was almost all the way on bad for diodes, but still was good on charge. And make sure if you use voltmeter to rev the engine up slowly and you'll see ac voltage will go up.

 

 

Wouldn't unplugging the alternator fuse rule out a bad alternator (since it made no difference)?  I'd also *hope* two new alternators in a row wouldn't both have bad diodes, of course that isn't guaranteed. :)

 

 

Did you reset the APPS?

Ed

 

Yes, it makes no difference, it might go away for awhile but comes right back.

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moparisthebest

moparisthebest

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"New" alternators from the big chains are made in China. Junk. Do the AC voltage test & you will see for yourself.

This is why they don't even want a core.

 

Ed

 

 

I don't disagree with you there. :)  But  wouldn't pulling the alternator fuse disconnect the alternator from the system and rule it out as a cause for electrical interference?

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Yankneck696

Yankneck696

Posted
Posted

1 person reported back that his brushes were so worn that they were making noise & with the BAT wire & the control plug removed from the alternator there was no lockup issue. Replaced the alternator & all was fine. Remember, AC voltage can be transferred through inductance (Think radio broadcast). That is why I always suggest to fully disconnect at the back of the alternator.

 

Ed

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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This is why relocation of the wiring or wrapping with tin foil won't work. The wiring would have to be like a CB coax that has a shielded jacket with reference to ground. So any AC production can be absorbed into any wire or circuit. Hence why BD noise filter works to filter the power into the PCM but leaves the rest of the electric system to fry from AC noise.

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drag racer

drag racer

Posted
Posted

Been chasing the dreaded TCC  issue on and off for years.  Started off with BD noise filter...it worked - for awhile, then issue came back.  Found this great thread - checked alternator....AC current 0.013 VAC at alternator, 0.029 VAC at battery - alternator diodes good, but problem still there :-(.  Reading everything I could find to finally solve this, and getting desperate as I am about to tow my new 42' gooseneck trailer for the first time soon and I cannot have the converter doing this and not locking up.

 

Latest fix attempts - 1) did APPS reset and 2) relocated the portion of the big ground cable running right next to the alternator away from it (one of many fixes I discovered).  Drove truck yesterday after doing those two things, and voila - back to normal :thumb1: .  Not sure which one or if both did it, but I hope it lasts this time!

Update:  truck ran perfect for several days, and then the dreaded TC cycling was back :-(

 

Rechecked alternator - still good, so decided to do another APPS reset.  Runs perfect again!  Since I don't have a lot of history on this site, the only things I have done out of the host of fixes floating around for the TCC issue are the BD noise filter several years ago, and most recently, re-routing the large ground wire away from the alternator.  All my battery cables and terminals are brand new and the truck overall is still like new with less than 32k on it.

 

Question for MoparMan or anyone:  is it possible the APPS itself is going bad?  Is it possible the alternator could still be going bad even though the voltage checks are perfect?  I have no other issues with the truck other than the TC cycling - no MIL codes, no dead pedal, no limp mode, no nothing.  Any other ideas?  I really hate shot-gunning potential "fixes" and trying the other ideas like re-routing more grounds, wrapping wires, etc. without understanding root cause, but I am perplexed at finding the root cause.

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