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Torque Converter Lock / Unlock Issues

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Marine

Marine

Posted
Posted

PASSING Grade! :thumbup2:

Also come to my attention that cheap DVM's tend to report this 30 volt level. Where a high quality Fluke or similar with report proper voltage.

Good point! I will try it with my Greenlee CM-1350.

Standby....

- - - Updated - - -

Good point! I will try it with my Greenlee CM-1350.

Standby....

I checked it with my Greenlee and it is at .3 VAC; that makes me feel better. Also 14.4 VDC.
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  • 2 weeks later...
adamey1000

adamey1000

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Do the 1500s have this same problem? if so what does it feel like? i have spent most of my time in standards but my fater-in-laws truck has been having some issues. he says that it "hammers" at a certain speed and throttle positions and if he lets out of it or gives it a little more it will stop. mostly happens at highway speeds but he has seen it around 45mph too. he has replaced the tranny and torque converter, TPS and the works. the transmission shop just scratched their heads and gave up. im not really familiar with his truck but i thought i would do some looking for him.

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  • 4 weeks later...
keola071

keola071

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Hello my name is josh. I have a 2000 dodge 2500. The issue that i am having now is trans hunting between 3rd 4th and lockup. I already installed a bd noise isolator. It worked a while now its back. I have checked my ac current of my altenator at idle. It flucuatates from .010 to .022. Next when i rev up the motor too 2000rpm it goes to .100. and drops back down. Is that normal or is that a sign of a bad altenator. I have been racking my brane on this issue. I do not believe in wrapping wires cause at one time it all worked fine. Also i have flex a lite fans on this truck and when my fans come on my ac leakage jumps up a little more since both of them turn on. I do not believe its them cause i have had them on for about 4 years and it never was an issue before. Also I do know its not my tranny cause its brand new and a Goerend. By the way i love it. IF you guys can give me some advice i would greatly appreciate it. My next step is to clean all the ground and pcm connecters. :thumbup2: Please help me out. Thanks again

Josh

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keola071

keola071

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:banghead:OK COMPLETED THE ALTENATOR TEST AND IT IS STILL DOING THE SAME THING! ITS KICKING OUT AND LOCKING UP IN THIRD GEAR AND SOMETIMES WONT GO OVER INTO FOURTH! I WENT AHEAD AND CLEANED ALL THE GROUND ON MY BATTERY BLOCK AND NEAR MY PCM. CLEANED PCM CONNETERS AND MY MEGA FUSE JUNCTION BLOCK! I AM AT A STOPPING POINT ANY IDEAS WOULD BE GREAT!

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keola071

keola071

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Thanks a bunch lol! But I have been trying to figure this out. I have heard replacing the altenator with a one wire might work but I honestly have no idea! Any thoughts?

I think your caps lock key is stuck. ;) Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

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Fishcarver

Fishcarver

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I don't know if you have pulled the alternator fuse or not when you say you tested the alternator. I suggest that you pull that fuse (140amp, in the fuse relay box) and take your truck for a short spin to see if you still have a problem. If it doesn't have a problem, then you have a either a bad battery or a bad diode in the alternator. The only way to tell which one is to bench test at a shop or retail outlet for parts (NAPA, etc). You will know if either of these are the problem as soon as you pull the fuse and go for a short spin. There are a lot smarter guys on here than me but I did this after reading this forum and fixed my problem the same as you have. Good Luck,Fishcarver

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keola071

keola071

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Yeah I went ahead and pulled the fuse and disconnected the altenator. I took it for a spin and still did the exact same thing! I then proceded to clean all grounds and clean all connecters. I am debating out moving the black and brown tan altenator ground above the alt instead of below like some people say. I have already replaced my apps sensor so I know its not that and have good batteries and a good charge for my alt. I completed the test for the alt and I was reading about 0.15 ac or ripple. ? I have heard going to a one wire altenator works? Have any of you guys done this! Thanks a bunch!

I don't know if you have pulled the alternator fuse or not when you say you tested the alternator. I suggest that you pull that fuse (140amp, in the fuse relay box) and take your truck for a short spin to see if you still have a problem. If it doesn't have a problem, then you have a either a bad battery or a bad diode in the alternator. The only way to tell which one is to bench test at a shop or retail outlet for parts (NAPA, etc). You will know if either of these are the problem as soon as you pull the fuse and go for a short spin. There are a lot smarter guys on here than me but I did this after reading this forum and fixed my problem the same as you have. Good Luck,Fishcarver

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  • 2 months later...
hathcox@dishmail.net

hathcox@dishmail.net

Posted
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I have had my 1999 2500 turbo diesel automatic since 2001. I have had problems with the lock/unlock problem all along. I have changed tps/ alt and did all kinds of other stuff and the problem presisted. Well i have learned that the problem is a RFI issue from the little green wire on the alt and the large black wire with a white stripe that goes to the passanger battery ground being an unshielded wire. I wrapped the two wires (seperatly) with aluminum foil ( several layers) and tape from the alt to the battery. Lo and behold the problem is gone.The torque converter works perfectly now.... William Hathcox 6018078383

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  • 1 month later...
CTcummins24V

CTcummins24V

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Had the truck since Jan. and it hunted from 3rd to 4th since the get go. Lately it's been hunting from 2nd to 3rd so I just did the alternator fuse test and it actually shifted normally! Anybody know where I can get a replacement diode plate for my Bosch or do I have to buy a new or remanufactured alternator?

Thanks

- - - Updated - - -

Well, NAPA just tested my alternator and it was good, and both batteries, one was fine the other was less than perfect but functional...and this was after my fuse test. Bad ground or connection? Bench test not diagnose diode?

- - - Updated - - -

I replaced the 140 amp fuse, put electrical tape on that "infamous green wire" from the back of the alternator (at the connection) and made sure there were no exposed wires or metal on metal contact or wire on metal contacts and now she shifts normal?! Who knows

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CTcummins24V

CTcummins24V

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Well, tranny started searching for gears again, 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th......so I found one of the negative wires from the back of the alternator rubbing the passenger battery/battery tray, covered the contact area with a rubber hose and now she shifts normal again! Alternator getting/giving noise from the chassis or battery?

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  • 3 weeks later...
jones154

jones154

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Posted

I have a 2001 170000 miles on it doing the same thing everyone else has described. Did the AC voltage test. It charges at 14.57 volt DC range .047 vac. I replaced the alternator jan 1 2013 didn't have a problem with it until july but it was hardly driven during replacement time to may. When I start the truck the voltage gauge in the cab slowly creeps up to the 14 volt range then drops down to the low end mark repeats this process several times but after driving it and sitting at an idle it stays at 14 volts. I say this because it didn't do this before I replaced the alternator and I don't know if it's a normal thing...my main concern is if anyone has found the true fix yet... If a faulty diode is the cause for the leak what caused the faulty diode.... Will replacing the alternator be the true fix or is it putting a bandaid on the problem. (because if it's just a bandaid there are cheaper band aids)

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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When I start the truck the voltage gauge in the cab slowly creeps up to the 14 volt range then drops down to the low end mark repeats this process several times but after driving it and sitting at an idle it stays at 14 volts.

Normal its the grid heater hitting. The grid heater draw about 195 Amp which is more than the alternator can produce so hence the voltage falls while the grid heaters are on then creep back up when they turn off. Then after driving it over 20 MPH it cancels the grid heater software and turns the grid heaters off till next key cycle.
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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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But with the 4th gear hunt has anyone really proven that replacing the alternator the correct cure for that problem if you have the AC voltage leak

You can prove it to yourself by unhooking the Alternator and taking a test drive if the problem goes away you found your issue. To do this remove the alternator fuse and the field lead from the back of the alternator.
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