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I ran the #6 coolant port to the heater line


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Just for sake of information in case anyone's wants to know.....In attempt to reduce the "hot spot" of stagnant coolant and see if I can mildly reduce towing temps, I removed the coolant port plug between the #5 and #6 cylinder, installed a barb and ran a line over to the heater core return line. I haven't had a lot of test time since I just finished it.....and given who overly anal I am, I'm not finished with it either. I set it up by trying to have the new 5/6 line run lower than the original heater inlet line. Cold the two lines are about 1/4" apart but after the engine warms, they just touch. I'm not happy with that. :thumbsdown:On a side note, doing stuff like this would be sooooo much easier if the parts guys actually knew what they had in stock and what they could get. I usually end up driving all over the north state looking for stuff. No fun. :spank:Also, no making fun of my dirty engine. Haven't had time to wash it. :hehe:

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why not run the water from number 6 slot into your heater core instead of your bypass pipe?

Good question. The only reason I didn't run it right into the heater core inlet line was because there was a lot of talk about all the pressure being built up in that portion of the head at upper RPM levels. Since this whole concept is kinda new territory for everyone.....the question remains whether or not there is more pressure coming out of that coolant port than the one feeding the heater core already. Meaning, will running that line into the inlet side allow for an increase in pressure inside the heater core which could potentially cause a leak? I cant answer that so I simply ran it over to the return side of the heater core. All of this would be interesting to know if someone had time to hook up a few pressure gauges and temp gauges in random areas of the head ports. So..... Is it helping? I've only had a little time in the seat but this is what I've found so far. Engine temps "seem" to be running a little milder during freeway runs. Again, I haven't had a chance to do much else and what I'd really like to know is how it will run towing a heavy trailer.
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I kind of wonder what the heater performance in the dead of winter will be like now? Being that the heater core is technically bypassed.

I'm not sure what you mean Mike since I didn't bypass anything. I left the existing heater lines in place and simply added an additional line to the return. Why would that bypass the core? If anything, I'd think it would potentially increase the heater core temp a little. Not sure. Test time will tell. :)
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Interesting approach. I guess we'll have to wait until winter to find out. In saying that, the only thing I've noticed is that the original heater core inlet line and the new 5/6 port line to the return line feel the same temperature by simply touching them. I know that's not scientific by any means but it at least tells me that there's equally hot coolant flowing through both of them.

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I can't remember where I read it or saw it, but someone removed the heater core nipple off the top of the head and found the diameter was way less than the nipple itself. I think they drilled it out to increase flow and improve heater core function. If that works than flow across the head would improve?Just thinking. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I kind of wonder what the heater performance in the dead of winter will be like now? Being that the heater core is technically bypassed.

i did something similar last spring, so it was on for the winter, and i didn't notice anything. i have always loved this truck for how well it heats the cab, just takes a couple more minutes than a small car.

i basically added an additional coolant circuit for my 351ve turbo.

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