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Back story:I'm looking at this 97 3500 4x4. It's got a few issues I'm concerned about; a couple being drivetrain-related.The truck was apparently originally a 5 speed truck, and somewhere down the line, was converted to auto. when the current owner got the truck, the trans went out shortly after that. He had it rebuilt with:(parts I know)Suncoast 3-disc TCperformance VBperformance front pumpnew servosnew TV cable(parts I don't know about)"red" clutchesSolid kevlar bandsSaid he's got like $3k in the trans rebuild, and another $1k is having the place in Wesminster, MD do some rewiring, connect vacuum lines, etc., that the owner before-hand did not do properly. The issue I have concern with is that when it's first started, and placed into gear, it takes about 10 sec or so to fully engage into gear. From that point on, it's fine. It shifts solid, feels good. I'm just concerned with this initial 'delay'. Another note to add is that the "computer" had to be re-pinned or something, for the trans to work properly. I dunno..Secondly, is the tach gauge. It works when it wants to. no other lights come on when it decides to stop working, which is most of the time. when you start it, it'll hop up and work.. after about 5 seconds, it's done and lays down.. :think:AC: The compressor cycles on/off about every 10-12 sec.. but doesn't blow cold air.Guidance? Thanks.

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I think I would look for a different truck. This one has too many issues. The big ones being wiring/electrical.The A/C is probably something simple like low freon or a clogged filter / drier. But stil l$$$ to fix if you can't do it your self.Transmission is not right either, low fluid or worn pump would be my guess. If the fluid level checks good, it's the pump or maybe clogged filter.

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I can and have done a lot of automotive ac work on my own junk in the past. With the compressor cycling, that's at least a good sign, and says that the most expensive component is functional.

The transmission's initial hesitation is my greatest concern. Since I posted this, I've communicated with the current owner, and he stated it's an HTS Ultimate..

ULTIMATE DUTY VALVE BODY, RED CLUTCHES, REGULAR STEELS, RED SOLID

BANDS, H/D BAND STRUT, 4.2 LEVER, FRONT SERVO UPGRADE,

ACCUMULATOR PACKAGE, STEEL REAR PLANETARY

Suncoast triple Disc Converter

Suncoast VB

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Does the owner offer any insight as to why the hesitation before the trans engages? Does it do this only after start up, or will it do it even after its been running for a few minutes? When i rebuilt my trans, I removed the checks in my cooler lines at the advice of my tranny guy. He recomended this because hes seen them fail in the past, creating a blockage in the line. The only function of them is to prevent the trans cooler and the lines (coming from the cooler mounted on the side of the block) from draining back down into the pan when the truck is shut off. If my truck has been sitting and I start it up and attempt to take off, I have the same symptom you describe. I simply wait 5 to 10 seconds ( depending on how cold the truck is and how long its been sitting) before putting it in gear and life is good.

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Does the owner offer any insight as to why the hesitation before the trans engages? Does it do this only after start up, or will it do it even after its been running for a few minutes? When i rebuilt my trans, I removed the checks in my cooler lines at the advice of my tranny guy. He recomended this because hes seen them fail in the past, creating a blockage in the line. The only function of them is to prevent the trans cooler and the lines (coming from the cooler mounted on the side of the block) from draining back down into the pan when the truck is shut off. If my truck has been sitting and I start it up and attempt to take off, I have the same symptom you describe. I simply wait 5 to 10 seconds ( depending on how cold the truck is and how long its been sitting) before putting it in gear and life is good.

He stated it only does it on initial startup, or if it's been sitting for extended period of time. Once it engages, there are no more instances. He also stated that he approached the rebuilder about it, and was informed that "that is normal for what was done; nothing to worry about." The fluid is clean and full.
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  • Owner

With the A/C put a set of gauges on it and check the pressures hi and lo side.Transmission could be a valve body issue. Check your line pressure if you can. You might talk to Pepsi71ocean.Tach I would check the crank sensor lead and the routing of the cable going toward the damper in the front. Sometimes the cable gets rubbed but a pulley or damaged.

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With the A/C put a set of gauges on it and check the pressures hi and lo side.

Transmission could be a valve body issue. Check your line pressure if you can. You might talk to Pepsi71ocean.

Tach I would check the crank sensor lead and the routing of the cable going toward the damper in the front. Sometimes the cable gets rubbed but a pulley or damaged.

AC is fixed, (low 134a) vents are fixed (vacuum leak) and brakes replaced. He's really doing all he can to seal the deal LOL Gotta give him props, for sure.

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4277&d=1342194785

- - - Updated - - -

so, truck has 4.10s and a manual front axle cable disconnect.

He's fixed everything that I was concerned about, sans rust, but it's not "that" bad.

He's throwing in a CB, an LED low profile strobe (seen in above picture), and a couple other odds/ends.

Yes, I'll be stepping into an older, less advanced truck. But It's more about necessity, as I'll soon be towing a lot more than I currently am. And if I step up to a gooseneck trailer (like I've been considering) then this will make it a little better, IMO..

don't hate me mike ;)

post-10339-138698190319_thumb.jpg

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Guys, the trans issue you are looking at is nothing but converter drain back. Totally normal in our trucks. All you need to do is start the truck and put the shifter in neutral for about five seconds to fill the converter and then go.

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I got the truck last evening. Monday I'll get it registered. It throws a trans code about pressure or something. Ill go get the code in a sec. I can clear it, but it come right back on restart. Also it stays in first gear a little long. Sometimes I'll get chatter feeling on takeoff. I'd this how a triple disk acts? It's just slightly noticeable and mot every time. From the Galaxy S3

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Hello, folks!So, maybe I've been out of the 12V too long. Maybe, I don't remember as much as I thought I did, in the 12V world...I was looking over this '97 Saturday. In looking to see if there was a boost elbow added, I noticed there wasn't. By that, I mean, there was no boost nipple of any sort, on the compressor housing. The WGA is not bolted/connected to the the compressor housing, by any way/shape/form.. It sticks down, low, almost at a 7 oclock position, on the plane of the exhaust housing. The boost line goes from the WGA up under the exhaust manifold, between the 4 & 5 rocker covers, and over to the backside of the injector pump/AFC assembly.. WTF?

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The AFC needs boost pressure to push it to and fro, to control smoke.. Why they didn't just run a little line to the intake manifold for that and a little line from the wastegate to the compressor is beyond me, but I have done just that on my truck.. There is a flat spot on the front of the compressor housing and I drilled and tapped it and ditched the crossover line, though I also ditched the entire AFC so I didn't have to tap into the intake manifold. Actually that line is already there, you just gotta drill and tap the compressor housing and your good to go. Cap the fitting that went to the crossover...

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Thanks ISX. Additionally, today I notice I cannot reach 1st gear in the auto. Neither manually with shift lever or letting it do it automatically. It's starting out in 2nd gear, no matter what I try. I've got a message in to the previous owner to get me warranty info and contact info. Trans was apparently built back in Feb of this yr with a 5yr 36k mi warranty so we'll see..Hidden code is P1764. From the Galaxy S3

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