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fuel gauge or isolator?

ruquick77
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ruquick77

ruquick77

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Ok guys I have a 2002 dodge ram2500, I have Isspro fuel gauge my gauge started reading below 5psi when I started the truck and would take about 20mins to build up to about 15psi. Before this started as soon as I started my truck the gauge would jump to around 15-17psi. So I thought well my cheap lift pump is going out so i bought another one from the local auto parts since i don't have time to wait on an airdog or raptor to be shiped to me. Got it installed and the gauge reads 2psi let the truck ideal for about 10mins and it went up to 5psi. Only thing I can come up with is the gauge is bad or the isolator is bad, both are only 2 years old. How long do gauges and isolators last? Is it common for them to go out? If I remember right I paid close to $200 for that gauge it would suck if it is bad already.What do you guys think?Thanks

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ruquick77

ruquick77

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Thats why we awlays recommend ditching the isolator and running a needle valve, there are no parts inside to go bad. Napa carries the needle valve you want and the part # is WH6820, should be less than $10.

So where do i install that needle valve and what fittings do i need to install it? Thanks for the info and part# I will pick one up tomorrow.
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LiveOak

LiveOak

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Ok guys I have a 2002 dodge ram2500, I have Isspro fuel gauge my gauge started reading below 5psi when I started the truck and would take about 20mins to build up to about 15psi. Before this started as soon as I started my truck the gauge would jump to around 15-17psi. So I thought well my cheap lift pump is going out so i bought another one from the local auto parts since i don't have time to wait on an airdog or raptor to be shiped to me. Got it installed and the gauge reads 2psi let the truck ideal for about 10mins and it went up to 5psi. Only thing I can come up with is the gauge is bad or the isolator is bad, both are only 2 years old. How long do gauges and isolators last? Is it common for them to go out? If I remember right I paid close to $200 for that gauge it would suck if it is bad already. What do you guys think? Thanks

I have a very similar if not identical set up. Mine does the same thing. In my case, the first time it happened, I put a gauge on the injector pumpt to verify I was getting the correct pressure (around 18 psi). It was, so I just allow a few minutes after start up and check to ensure I have the correct pressure. The problem is the isolator "membrane" or divider becomes stiff with age. I contacted Eric at Vulcan Performance and he sent me a rebuild kit with a new "membrane" and seals, etc. to build the isolator. I just keep a spare and when the one I have stops working altogether, I will replace it. I don't want to run the risk of getting diesel fuel inside the cab, even if it is just small amount. You will NEVER get that smell out, not to mention that fuel in the vicinity of unshielded electrical components is never a safe bet. Going the other way with fuel direct to the gauge if done properly will probably never cause any problems but if there ever is, the potential for a really big problem could exist. I agree that the fuel pressure gauging systems we have are not the optimum but about the best out there in my opinion.
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