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krj

New injectors, do I need a bigger hammer?!

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Yeah, it's me again with more newbie questions... Installing my new RV275 injectors, before I bugger something up wanted to ask a question/get confirmation. My FSM says to push new injectors in by hand, and (in bold) NOT to use any additional tools to force them in. The install videos I've watched also say the same thing and show them popping right in. Well, that's not working, even with minimal additional mechanical help. Yes, all the injector tubes are out. Yes, I did put oil on the the new 'O' rings and the new copper washers are well seated and not slipping off. Yes the old copper washers are out as well. I double checked the receipt from Diesel Auto Power and it confirms they are RV275 injectors for 98.5-2002 Dodge Cummins.#'s stamped on new injectors: 0432193635 Brasil 908(circled) 20118 4183#'s stamped on old injectors: 0432193629 989(circled) 964 4828What gives? What am I missing? Should I ignore the warning of no force and take a rubber mallet to them (going to be hard on #5 & 6)? I really just want to get this thing back together and on down the road.Oh yeah, connector tubes. All the 'O' rings look good, but #'s 1, 2 & 5 had some build up above the 'O' ring. Was able to get it cleaned off with a plastic scraper & some biodiesel I had kicking around. Is that legit? Should I get some new 'O' ring for the tubes? This truck is new to me as of June, as far as I know (I have all the receipts) the injectors and tubes haven't been monkeyed with. The injectors are dirty, but truck was running well.Input?KevinP.S. Despite how it may seem, I am not a complete mechanical idiot. I have rebuilt numerous gasoline engines, but the diesels are new to me & I just really don't want to f*%k anything up. Especially considering I'm leaving on a 5-7K road trip to MX in a month...

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When I installed mine i had to help them in. I had a piece of copper pipe and I pried them in off of what ever I could catch it on. I put a rubber handled screw driver on the top of the injector and they popped in. I am not a mechanical genious either, but it was how I installed mine. So I beleive some persuasion is ok. As long as you just dont take a hammer and smack them you should be alright. I am sure if I am wrong someone will come along and say"WTF".As far as the connector tube orings, replace them all. They are too cheap to even think about not using new ones.

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Yeah I would screw a bolt it and pull on the head of the bolt... make sure you're pulling straight up. The injectors are very hard steel so you will rip the head of the bolt off before you screw the injector up, but 24V injectors shouldn't be in there too hard, they are protected from the elements and covered in oil... You don't wanna know what I had to do to get my 12V injectors out after 300k miles and being exposed to the elements..:evilgrin: I don't know how viable this is but you might put a light coating of high temp grease between the o ring and the injector tip so it keeps it a little more isolated from whatever it is bound to. That's what I do with my 12V injectors and they have pulled right out from then on.

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Thanks guys, I'll try a little more "persuasion" to get them back in tonight. I used the bolt/screw driver trick to get them out no problem. Getting them back in was my concern.In regards to the connector O rings; a little more Stealership bashing is in order! It took me 3 calls to the parts department to find someone who actually knew what I was talking about! When I finally got a hold of someone who had a clue (once I provided him with a part #), he quoted me a price of $40, almost twice what I've seen them advertised for!Two calls to local diesel shops and I've got a set waiting for my pickup tomorrow am, $20.Hopefully you won't hear from me anytime soon!Kevin

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Here is how I've been doing it. Place the injector in the hole and then slip the cover in place and lever back down to seat the injector.

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Then tighten your cross over tube before you even think of putting that bolt in the cover.

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They're all in, thanks again guys.Used a combo of wooden dowel and hammer (gently) for the 1st 3, then a combo of a 19mm box wrench levered on the rearward cap bolt until I could get the cap underneath (as in Mikes above post) to get em the last bit.Not very hard, just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to f%$k something up.Connector rod O rings tomorrow am, and hope to have her up & running after that.One last fuel gauge question & I should be good to go. Mike, what diameter air brake line do you use in your setups? Tried to match the diameter of the nylon line that came with my boost kit, but smallest that Napa (1 of 3 in my area) could do was 1/4".

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