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Wild and Free

Smarty Jr POD update troubles, How is it done?

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I for the life of me can't figure out how to update my old smarty jr from the Madds web site.I have downloaded the files and 7zip "about 10 times and I don't have a clue what I am looking at" and have plugged in my smarty to my pc and it shows a popup stating the drivers are installed and it goes away and I get nothing but now what?I get no prompts or nothing, what do I do? Do I run the files or save them? I always save them. Am I supposed to download all 4 tool files on the site, I just picked the newest one date wise?:think:The site gives a good breakdown of what to do if you have windows xp but I have windows 7 and it just dead ends me at every turn.I went through this same thing with my smarty on my 02, took me almost all day and got it by accident and never did know what I finally did.Help me please.:banghead::banghead::banghead:I am off to work now before I throw my pc and smarty in the trash due to frustration.:banghead::mad::mad:

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download the following http://www.madselectronics.com/downloadfiles/SmartyUSB.exe http://www.madselectronics.com/downloadfiles/SJR/SJRV514B_URS01C.7z Unzip the second one with 7zip to a known location. Open the first one, then file, then open, then find and select the unzipped file. Plug your smarty Jr into the PC, then press send. It should take about 15 minutes. Windows 7 and XP should work nearly identically, at least they did for me.

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ETA: AH64 is the Smarty guy. Nevermind. I don't have a smarty Jr, but I have the S03. I would be willing to try helping walk through it some evening this week once I get off work, but I don't have the cable with me in the field to do it in sync with you. Perhaps someone else can decode it for you. If I recall it wasn't exactly simple with the S03.

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I've got the Smarty Revo SO6. I'm too scared to try to change it because I use a Mac 'puter and because the set up I have now is great!!:thumbup2:

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OK thanks, Got the first 2 downloaded, now how do I "unzip" the first one? Got to start with the basics here.:think:

I have 7-zip downloaded and I already had adobe reader on my pc.

When I find the USB exe file it doesn't appear to be a zipped file, could it have been unzipped automatically during download?

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The usb.exe is not zipped and just needs to be opened. Did you install 7zip? If so then you just need to right click on the 2nd file you download and select 7 Zip, then extract here (or wherever you want to save it). Then open the first file you downloaded, and select the file you just unzipped and send (once your SJR is plugged in). Adobe reader should not be required for the update, just to read the help files.

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Yes 7zip is installed. I will give it a go in a couple minutes here after I finish my breakfast. Shift work is awesome, at least I keep telling myself that lol.:rolleyes:

- - - Updated - - -

Ok here is where my trouble comes in, I searched my computer and I found several different 7 zip files all with a little different names on my c drive. But when I try to right click on the smarty update file that looks like an adobe file I do not get a 7zip option.:think:

Update #2, I was messing around in my c drive and deleted one 7 zip and repaired and reset another and now I get the 7 zip option when opening the file...............Here we go.:hyper:

Update #3, well things were not quite as described and is happening like it did on my 02 smarty. nothing ever looks the same or has the same sequence as described but it is erasing my smarty memory and shows 12 minutes so hopefully it is working.:ahhh:

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The smarty update file should not look like an adobe file, unless you tried to open it with adobe and told the computer to use adobe for it.

You should have the "open with" option, select 7 zip.

Or open 7 zip from the start menu, and then open the SJRV514B_URS01C.7z file.

- - - Updated - - -

Good luck!

I'll check back in a few minutes.

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I have been adding updates to the post above, it seems to be working.:thumbup2:

Thanks for walking me though this tough time in my life. I couldn't have done it without ya, I luv ya man! Lol :lmao:

8 minutes to go and counting...............................:pant:

We did it! Thank you for the help!!!!!!!!!:thumbup2:

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Awesome!

I think you will be quite happy with the update.

How old was your file, and what settings were you running?

I was running the original Smarty JR tune from about 5-6 years ago. I ran with it on level 3 almost all of the time, gave the best milage there. Even level 2 was better milage than level 1 which was supposed to be the milage tune.

- - - Updated - - -

What have you found to be the best settings on your rig for overall power for towing and milage? I realize you have engine mods that will affect this.

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AH64ID, how are the new tunes "better"??? Before I try to FUBAR something that's working really good, I'd like to know!!!!:lmao::lmao2:As of now running SW5 default setting on my Smarty Revo SO6, I have lower EGT's than stock, more power than stock, and a more responsive throttle than stock. What more do I need???:shrug:

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Well when I updated my Smarty S6 PoD I had all kinds of trouble making the connection. I watched the how to movies on the Mads web site and follwed the step by step and still couldn't get it to work.Finally in despiration I contacted Italy and they sent me a file called "Smarty for Dummies" which had directions different than posted on their web site. It worked great. I saved the file for future reference.Dorkweed: the new updates creates a new base tune that is more linear, supposed to be more HP in all the tunes (stated as +10%) and is supposed to give more mpg. It also changed the timing map so it is different than the original tunes. Also the update makes the program UDC capable. I am now running the update but am too new at it to have conclusive data on the improvements in power and mpg but I am working at it. I have tried 3 tanks of fuel on each of the CaTcher tunes (1-5) I recently switched to the PoD tune with modified timing and default rail pressure, default torque managent, default speed limiter and default waste gate. I have set the level down to 30% and will work my way up the scale and see if there is any noticeble difference than using the CaTcher version of the program. I have a stock tranny so I am not going to maximum output of the program which is now pretty close to 200HP (as per Mads info)I eventually want to learn about UDC and try that out as well.

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Loaded it up today on sw#1 all default settings to try. The engine is noticably quieter overall and has a lot less timing clatter or pinging at idle. Seems to be a lot more "Peppy" that the old tune also. I will leave it here for a couple tanks of fuel to see if I notice any mileage differences.A question on the Tourque management settings. Is stock #1 the most agressive or is #4 more aggressive or how ever goofy as hell they try to explain it ?Something must get really messed up in the Italalian to English translation/description of things when describing 1-4 settings in timing and TM.:think:

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In my Smarty Instuction manual for the S6 PoD it says 1=stock, 2=mild, 3=moderate and 4=wild. But this is if you want to adjust this specific parameter. If you leave it set to 0 that means the program defaults to the current CaTCHER level.What I think this means is that any of the CaTCHER levels could have a their own unique Torque setting pre-programmed in, and if you want to just accept that setting then that is the default.Hope that helps.

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In my Smarty Instuction manual for the S6 PoD it says 1=stock, 2=mild, 3=moderate and 4=wild. But this is if you want to adjust this specific parameter. If you leave it set to 0 that means the program defaults to the current CaTCHER level.

What I think this means is that any of the CaTCHER levels could have a their own unique Torque setting pre-programmed in, and if you want to just accept that setting then that is the default.

Hope that helps.

That is for the timing, Copied from the manual below.

Injection Timing

The Timing selection can be programmed 1 - Stock, 2 - Wild, 3 - Advanced (less than #2) or 4 -

Moderate (less than #3).

With the Default timing setting, Smarty chooses it according to the current CaTCHER level.

I am wanting to know about the TQ management adjustments,

Copied from the manual below

Torque

The Torque selection can be programmed 1 - Stock, 2 - Mild, 3 - Soft (less than #2) or 4 - Light (less

than #3).

So which one is the most aggressive?

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As I stated: my S6-PoD manual says exactly what I posted above for the torque mangament.It also says that same thing for the timing (just as you noted).I still would tell you for the PoD (version which I have) the manual says that 4=wild.There is a note under the torque info that is in the manul that states the following: IMPORTANT: with torque level 3 or above, an aftermarket clutch/AT transmission is recommended.All this tells me that 4 is the high number.Hope that helps.

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You guys are mixing SJR and S06 settings, they are different for Torque.

They both have the same timing, TM2 = max, TM4 = least (other than stock).

As for Torque TQ2 is the most aggressive on the Jr, and TQ4 is the most aggressive on the SR (and is FAR more aggressive than anything on the Jr)

- - - Updated - - -

As far as mileage settings. TM2 TQ4 (Jr) TQ2 (Sr). If it's a bone stock auto I would not go above SW2 (Jr) SW3 (Sr), and anything but SW1 will require an intelligent right foot and the TQ set to TQ 1.

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You guys are mixing SJR and S06 settings, they are different for Torque.

They both have the same timing, TM2 = max, TM4 = least (other than stock).

As for Torque TQ2 is the most aggressive on the Jr, and TQ4 is the most aggressive on the SR (and is FAR more aggressive than anything on the Jr)

As far as mileage settings. TM2 TQ4 (Jr) TQ2 (Sr). If it's a bone stock auto I would not go above SW2 (Jr) SW3 (Sr), and anything but SW1 will require an intelligent right foot and the TQ set to TQ 1.

Are the SW tunes that more aggressive on the newest POD jr software? They are rated at the same HP as the old tunes.

I have been using the old original JR tune sw#3 full time for over 50k miles and have had zero issues even towing, I set it and forget it.

Other than the heavy smoke it was ok.

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No, they are actually smoother, and easier on the trans. But the 48RE is not known for it's ability to hold additional power, especially when towing. The 40hp tune is the max I would recommend towing on with a stock auto, it's not a matter of if you have trans problems, but when. SW3 will net better mileage than SW1 when empty, so that's okay for driving around if your foot isn't too heavy. I would set PoD at 85 on SW3.

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No, they are actually smoother, and easier on the trans. But the 48RE is not known for it's ability to hold additional power, especially when towing. The 40hp tune is the max I would recommend towing on with a stock auto, it's not a matter of if you have trans problems, but when. SW3 will net better mileage than SW1 when empty, so that's okay for driving around if your foot isn't too heavy. I would set PoD at 85 on SW3.

With a bone stock QC 2wd and a stickshift with the factory clutch, what would you set the Jr at?

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Well having had a fairly highly modified 2nd gen and a 3rd gen I can say the stock 3rd gen tranny will hold a heck of a lot more HP and TQ than the 2nd gens. My 02 would chatter and slip the stock converter with nothing more than an Edge EZ at 200HP and 400 tq on the dyno . My 05 with 105K and running sw#3 full time for about the last 50K has no issues at all at 407 hp and 750 tq on the dyno and no tq converter slippage at all.The only thing I can see being hard on it is if going to the most aggressive TQ setting. It all comes down to common sense. I sold my 02 with 150K on the clock it was running 560 hp I drag raced and power pulled, I added a single disc BD converter and VB and had to replace the output shaft after it snapped but the main tranny was still ticking when I sold it and had never been rebuilt.

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With a bone stock QC 2wd and a stickshift with the factory clutch, what would you set the Jr at?

SW2 defaults.

Well having had a fairly highly modified 2nd gen and a 3rd gen I can say the stock 3rd gen tranny will hold a heck of a lot more HP and TQ than the 2nd gens. My 02 would chatter and slip the stock converter with nothing more than an Edge EZ at 200HP and 400 tq on the dyno . My 05 with 105K and running sw#3 full time for about the last 50K has no issues at all at 407 hp and 750 tq on the dyno and no tq converter slippage at all. The only thing I can see being hard on it is if going to the most aggressive TQ setting. It all comes down to common sense. I sold my 02 with 150K on the clock it was running 560 hp I drag raced and power pulled, I added a single disc BD converter and VB and had to replace the output shaft after it snapped but the main tranny was still ticking when I sold it and had never been rebuilt.

The trans is stronger, but also puts down about 285/520 from the factory. It's just a word of caution, as the majority of people don't have the luck you are having.

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SW2 defaults. The trans is stronger, but also puts down about 285/520 from the factory. It's just a word of caution, as the majority of people don't have the luck you are having.

Not luck, just knowledge of how things work and how to use them short of abusing them.:thumbup2:

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