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Lock out hub conversion


angus

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Thanks War Eagle, That thread is a good read. I`ve got a dry U joint on the drivers side axle just like Dorkweed described, and it makes an annoying "ticking" sound.After reading through all the post.. I don`t see how the weight rating of the front axle could have any effect on the U joints ?? As they are not actually supporting any weight. I`m thinking the tighter turning radius of the 3rd gens may be more of a factor?I checked out the Spyntec web site, and they look like a really nice piece... being able to sevice the hub bearings, and the ability to disconnect all the unnecessary rotating hardware looks like a "no brainer".I`ll have to wait and see if my tax man can work some magic for this project, but this is on the list.Thanks again

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I am planning on ordering the parts in a few weeks for this. I am going back and forth between the Yukon and Spyntec. They both get excellent reviews, and I have seen the Yukon's in person as my dad has them on his 06. After he bought his the Spyntec's came out with their shorty version, which is very appealing. I originally was leaning towards the Yukon becuase they use Warn hubs, well now they are in-house and have had a few growing pains. Nothing they haven't rectified and modified all the in stock stuff with, but if my dad wasn't local to Yukon it would have been a PITA. Spyntec uses MM hubs, and while I haven't heard anything bad about them I have always been a Warn guy.As for the rating, I am not sure where it all comes from. I think ball joints are a big factor, but I don't know. I am trying to find out why the 10' + trucks are rated at 5500 and the 03-09 are only rated at 5200. There was a u-joint and knuckle change for better steering, but I don't see either of those being the cause for the 300 lbs. I have heard the '13 will be rated at 6K lbs, but it's a very different version of the axle with CAD (BAD RAM, BAD!!!). I am also replacing the ball joints when I do the hubs, and will be going with dynatrac's. The same part number is used for 02-12, so if the BJ is the reason for the lower rating then I should be good to go a little over, as that happens all too easily on these trucks.

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I am planning on ordering the parts in a few weeks for this. I am going back and forth between the Yukon and Spyntec. They both get excellent reviews, and I have seen the Yukon's in person as my dad has them on his 06. After he bought his the Spyntec's came out with their shorty version, which is very appealing. I originally was leaning towards the Yukon becuase they use Warn hubs, well now they are in-house and have had a few growing pains. Nothing they haven't rectified and modified all the in stock stuff with, but if my dad wasn't local to Yukon it would have been a PITA. Spyntec uses MM hubs, and while I haven't heard anything bad about them I have always been a Warn guy. As for the rating, I am not sure where it all comes from. I think ball joints are a big factor, but I don't know. I am trying to find out why the 10' + trucks are rated at 5500 and the 03-09 are only rated at 5200. There was a u-joint and knuckle change for better steering, but I don't see either of those being the cause for the 300 lbs. I have heard the '13 will be rated at 6K lbs, but it's a very different version of the axle with CAD (BAD RAM, BAD!!!). I am also replacing the ball joints when I do the hubs, and will be going with dynatrac's. The same part number is used for 02-12, so if the BJ is the reason for the lower rating then I should be good to go a little over, as that happens all too easily on these trucks.

Word of advise..........don't do the install in 104* temps!!!!! I would've taken pix of my install, but like I said, greasy, dirty, sweaty hands and arms and faces don't go together well with cameras!!!!!:smart:
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I bought some MMs for my old Chevy 3/4 and they seem to be pretty well built.. their all steel construction, and the engagement mechanism is very positive locking n unlocking. The old brand Xs I replaced had some plastic parts and one of them finally scattered pulling a 10,000lb hay trailer out of a muddy field.As for ball joints... I helped a friend change a side on his 04, and believe me it was a real SOB! thats something you don`t ever want to have to do twice. When the time comes to change mine I want something greasable at the very least.Does Dynatac make replacement ball joints as well??

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I bought some MMs for my old Chevy 3/4 and they seem to be pretty well built.. their all steel construction, and the engagement mechanism is very positive locking n unlocking. The old brand Xs I replaced had some plastic parts and one of them finally scattered pulling a 10,000lb hay trailer out of a muddy field. As for ball joints... I helped a friend change a side on his 04, and believe me it was a real SOB! thats something you don`t ever want to have to do twice. When the time comes to change mine I want something greasable at the very least. Does Dynatac make replacement ball joints as well??

The MM hubs in my SpynTec kit engage and disengage solidly and quite easily. They give you a little plastic tool to turn the hubs back and forth...........to give some purchase on the little handle, but mine turn easily and smoothly enough without it. I've tried turning other manual hubs in the past that were impossible without a pair of plyers or vise-grips!!!!! Don't know if it was lack of lube or maintenance on them though.
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The MM hubs in my SpynTec kit engage and disengage solidly and quite easily. They give you a little plastic tool to turn the hubs back and forth...........to give some purchase on the little handle, but mine turn easily and smoothly enough without it. I've tried turning other manual hubs in the past that were impossible without a pair of plyers or vise-grips!!!!! Don't know if it was lack of lube or maintenance on them though.

Back in my younger days I used to think they needed to be packed with axle grease:cookoo:.. I`ve learned just a light penetating oil, or WD40 works best when they start getting a little sticky
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