Hey guys. I'm at my uncles this weekend and he says he had a programmer that changes tire sizes. I have been wanting to do that for a bit so I said sure. I didn't even think it would try to tune my truck also. I have my comp box in the truck as well. I set the tire size and went for a drive. It felt like the the timing was all over the place!!!! I turned the comp off and it seemed to smoothen out but I have a serious power loss now. I tried to get back in with the other programmer to erase all its settings and now it won't recognize the truck. It says that it's not the original vehicle. This programmer is a smart chips "micro max" tuner. Obd II plug in. I have to drive 200 miles tonight!!! Any have an idea??? Thank you!!

Dealer and have a factory flash done. I don't know of many ways of reversing bad flashes.

Ooh boy. Ok. Well I made it home last night at least. I will start checking into getting a reflash done. Thanks

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So went to the dealer today. They are only going to charge an hour's labor time for the re flash. I thought it was going to be a lot more than that. They also said that it may or may not work. Should I be worried about that? Im sorry I had to use the 911 area. I just didnt want to mess my truck up or anything and I had to drive home over the cascades last night. Thank you so much for all the help and wisdom!!

This topic can be considered closed now. I don't think I can close it over the forum app. Thank you again.

I could have sworn I posted in here already, anyhoo yeah like I know I posted here once already they will always charge an hour minimum even though it takes a few minutes, the techs love those flat rate jobs.

Ya I bet they do. Had it reflashed but it didn't seem to change anything. It just sounds like the timing is way off. Valves are really noisy still. After I get on it hard it cleans up for a minute or so, then it goes back to being noisy. This is with comp on or off. Not sure what to do now?? Can't possibly need a new ECM do I???

Another thing I have noticed since all of this started... If I cruise for any extended period of time using cruise control, the timing seems to slowly fix itself back to what it use to be at all the time. The motor gets quieter and quieter until it feels and sounds completely normal. As soon as I take it off cruise, the timing goes out of wack and it gets really noisy again. By "noisy", I mean it sounds almost like if you go out and start the truck on a cold morning, and just start driving it down the road without letting it warmup at all. It just seems really extra rattly. I still have good oil pressure, and it is getting up to about 190* just like normal. The only codes I have are a P1693 and a P0522. This was checked with the key trick. I am lost as to what is going on now. Could my ECM be on the way out? I have never heard of anything like this happening before....

Have you taken the Edge comp completely out of the mix and tried that yet? It neds to be completely unhooked from the engine.The other thing that can change timing is a bad reading from the AIT air intake temp sensor. Also could be the start of a dying vp44, the first symptoms with my 02 came with similar simptoms as you describe with cruise on and off and it soon developed into a no start when warm, mine also started surging just a bit with cruise on too.P0522 Oil Pressure Voltage Too Low Oil pressure sending unit (sensor) voltage input below theminimum acceptable voltage. Make sure it is plugged in or a wire is not pulled out of a connector or broken. I would have to look at the schematic and see if this sensor gets a 5V signal, if it does this could indicate an ECM issue if the 5v signal is not there.

AIT (or IAT) sensor is a son of a female dog to get to... but a bad connection or dirty sensor could cause this. Several of us use resistors to override the AIT sensor. Mike posted the following table. 143* is normal for a warmed up engine. Temperature Resistance 13°F 56K ohms 26°F 39K ohms 87ºF 7.4K ohms 91°F 6.8K ohms 100°F 5.6k ohms 107°F 4.7K ohms 112°F 4.3K ohms 119ºF 3.6K ohms 123ºF 3.3K ohms 127ºF 3.0K ohms 132ºF 2.7k ohms 143°F 2.2k ohms <<<< 148°F 2.0k ohms 163°F 1.5k ohms 173°F 1.2k ohms 184°F 1.0k ohms http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/6870-IAT-and-MAP-sensor/page2?highlight=iat+fooler

I totally unhooked the comp, didn't have any change or effect. I also put a 3.3 resister in for 123* and that didn't have any effect either. Kinda pointing towards more serious problems at this point.

I have been noticing a little but of a surge while cruising. Not enough to feel but enough to hear it in the engine. Where would I look on the vp to see if it a reman?

Depending on If it truely is a reman who and where it is marked would vary if it was marked at all. Would be hard to tell if it was done at a Bosch certified reman shop, some may stamp a # on the housing somewhere but unless it was removed the chances of seeing it are slim.

Ok. I am taking it in to a trusted guy this week to have some other work done so I will talk to him about it. There is also an injection shop in town I can go talk to. Thanks for all the help, seriously. I will get back with what I find out.

The shop that I took the truck to found one of the fuel injectors was getting stuck open. That would explain the surging he said. That gave me motive to drop some RV275's in:thumb1: He also found all the valve guide seals were really tore up. The head was "rebuilt" before I bought the truck and apparently they messed up. That would explain my oil consumption. The shop is trying to figure out a way to change the seals without taking the head off. They said the could put compressed air into the cylinder via the injector holes and it will hold the valves in place while releasing the springs. Anyone ever heard of this being done? I am just trying to follow up on my situation.

The shop that I took the truck to found one of the fuel injectors was getting stuck open. That would explain the surging he said. That gave me motive to drop some RV275's in:thumb1: He also found all the valve guide seals were really tore up. The head was "rebuilt" before I bought the truck and apparently they messed up. That would explain my oil consumption. The shop is trying to figure out a way to change the seals without taking the head off. They said the could put compressed air into the cylinder via the injector holes and it will hold the valves in place while releasing the springs. Anyone ever heard of this being done? I am just trying to follow up on my situation.

I have seen that done before on large stationary diesels. Worked very well. I don't know why you couldn't do it on the truck. You have to have the valves closed on each cylinder you are working on.

I am sure that shouldnt be an issue because you have to remove all the rockers anyway. I just kinda wanted to check with you guys to see if it had been done. I will check back with what the shop decided to do. Thanks again!!!

So I think I figured out my issues with how it was running. Since I am having all this work done and I'm getting rid of the 100hp sticks and getting some rv275s. They tested my old injectors and one was stuck open. None of the others popped at the right time or flowed at the same rate. I think the new injectors should make things a lot nicer. They also said that the stuck open injector will give symptoms of the vp going. What do ya think??

Sounds good to me. Get it running and see how it feels.

Everything runs quieter and smoother for sure. But, it still feels like the timing is jumpin around. One minute the valves are really noisy then the next they are silent. I still have the edge unhooked from the motor and it does it at all speeds/rpms. I just don't understand...

Because of the injector being stuck open, I would look at the cylinder that it was in for washdown with a compression test and/or do an oil change or analysis as the diesel fuel from that injector probably did some damage.

Thats a good point and I will look into it as soon as I can. Would that mess with the timing like this though? Could a sensor like the IAT or MAP be mis reading or something? I just dont know if the jumpy timing is something I should be worried about is all. Its not normal so I am kinda freaking out a bit.

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For the sake of updating, I did the key trick and got these codes...

-P1689

-P0382

-P0380

-P0215

-P0122

I dont know if this helps, but I will clear them and see what comes back. I know two of those are VP related and it makes me worried but I dont think they indicate a failure in the pump. What about the rest?