Jump to content
  • Welcome Guest To Mopar1973Man.Com

    We are a Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel forum. We are very friendly and helpful group of Dodge Ram Cummins owners. We will try to keep your truck running the best we can and provide information for diagnostics, repairs and even guide you on the best replacement parts to use. 

     

    Registration is free. Registering on the site will provide access to many more things like...
     

    • Contribute to the Forum being able to ask questions and get support for your Dodge Ram Cummins.
    • Contribute to Article Database adding your ideas and suggestions.
    • Classified Ads posted by the members. Post up your used parts and vehicles.
    • Member Garage where you can proudly display your vehicles and modifications that you have done to them.
    • Download files, documents, and Quadzilla Adrenaline tunes for your truck.
    • 911 Support Network. We've got a group of members will to aid you if your truck breaks down on the road.
    • Reduced Advertisements displayed to you.

Sign in to follow this  
Deafautotech

Is my clutch start to go bad?

Recommended Posts

I am want see if that is correct way of clutch go bad on my nv5600 as I had press in clutch and shift work fine for while but when I got to my garage, clutch act little funny and shifter would not let me shift out of gear since it keep move so I had to stop it and there is a small clutch burn smelling so I had turn it off( I did cool down before enter my garage) is slave cylinder go bad or clutch system go worn out? It has 208k and I don't know of it had replaced before?? If it is clutch then I will jack up the truck in garage and leave it as is while I am go drive jeep liberty as I don't have a time to do that now. I am supposed to go on Friday morning at 5am to go Wisconsin.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm actucly experienceing the same issue and I find out tomorrow if it is my Clutch (which i just got my new South bend dual disc clutch in today and droped off this morning) or if i also need a Master/Slave Clyinder but at that milage it need's replaceing before they do go out and your away form home as mine did. Speed shifthing for a 20 mile's is not fun or advised but you gotta do what ya can as i did haha i'll fill ya in tomorrow if it get's done.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It was just happen to me when I got to my garage from my work. It was work fine until I got to my garage then it act like clutch are stuck. I am go check the salve cylinder to see if fluid are low or leak. I am not know if clutch had replaced before??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i was able to squeze out about 1,xxx mile's before the pedal refused to come back up on it's own and was just dead. And i also had fluid on the master cylinder rod but won't know anything till tomorrow maybe the other's can help till then

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm actucly experienceing the same issue and I find out tomorrow if it is my Clutch (which i just got my new South bend dual disc clutch in today and droped off this morning) or if i also need a Master/Slave Clyinder but at that milage it need's replaceing before they do go out and your away form home as mine did. Speed shifthing for a 20 mile's is not fun or advised but you gotta do what ya can as i did haha i'll fill ya in tomorrow if it get's done.

Why did you go with a DD, I don't see anything in your sig that warrants one. The folks I know that have them generally wish they had gone single disk and detuned a few hp if needed.

It was just happen to me when I got to my garage from my work. It was work fine until I got to my garage then it act like clutch are stuck. I am go check the salve cylinder to see if fluid are low or leak. I am not know if clutch had replaced before??

It could be either, at 208K miles it's hard to tell. If you are strapped for cash I would start with the cheaper hydraulics and see what happens. If the clutch is bad I would swap hydro's regardless at 208K miles, so it won't be money wasted.

- - - Updated - - -

i was able to squeze out about 1,xxx mile's before the pedal refused to come back up on it's own and was just dead. And i also had fluid on the master cylinder rod but won't know anything till tomorrow maybe the other's can help till then

Sounds more like a hydraulic issue.
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am not worry about money but big problem is I was plan to take my cummins as towing a trailer for my vacation to Wisconsin. But now I has no time to do it as I am work full time and has prepare for vacation time this Friday morning. I has look at master slave cylinder and it seem like new fluid in and clean. It was work fine but very little time it made me felt like something wrong with clutch pedal as feel like it was not full to floor.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I went with a DD due to my job i work at a farm implement store and regularly haul multiple tractor's and equipment or my camper once a week during the summer. Average weight is 26k GCVWR with my camper and 30k+ when hauing for work. I checked around and most of the people i know went single disk and regret it one is on his 2 SD in under a year and other's won't try to pull as much due to worrieing about destroying a clutch or worse if it fail's at the wrong time. Ialsochecked with my trans shop, Thoroughbred Diesel, and South Bend they all highly advised a DD over single. I'd prefer to have more then needed then need and not have. But that's just me i also plan on adding more item's as far as power goes just want a solid base to build on.Did the pedal seem soft or sponge or stiff or even shorter compared to normal as in very little travel down and back when preesing?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am not worry about money but big problem is I was plan to take my cummins as towing a trailer for my vacation to Wisconsin. But now I has no time to do it as I am work full time and has prepare for vacation time this Friday morning. I has look at master slave cylinder and it seem like new fluid in and clean. It was work fine but very little time it made me felt like something wrong with clutch pedal as feel like it was not full to floor.

When my master went out all looked fine. Fluid was full and clean and no sign of a leak. It was leaking internally. It felt funny like yours and kept getting worse until one day it went to the floor and did not come back up.
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is feeling like common clutch pedal that I could feel like press the pressure plate to release the clutch. When it was happen, it felt like there is not enough to press the pressure plate complete.

I am plan to take my snap on videoscope to look in flywheel housing to see what is look like. Right now it is feeling like it is work fine then bam there is not enough on clutch pedal. Once I tried it again, it is work fine. It just started today but this time it get worse. I could smell the little clutch burn while I had hold the brake or drive through my garage door... Which I had to shut it down. Then tried the clutch pedal again, it was work ok. It seem like it is intermittent???

- - - Updated - - -

When my master went out all looked fine. Fluid was full and clean and no sign of a leak. It was leaking internally. It felt funny like yours and kept getting worse until one day it went to the floor and did not come back up.

I am feeling like it has been good pedal then act like missed pedal but I felt like it only had half way. So should I go for complete master/slave assembly that I don't need bleed since I live alone at my home/garage.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Should I go for oem as Chrysler part dept ( I work for ford shop but Chrysler is next door) I worked for Chrysler 5 years before laid off in 2009. I has friend who work in Chrysler part dept that I can ask and see how much for it. I know south bend company but I don't know if they would get a part come to me quicker as next day?? I am not feel comfort to try fix it and drive 410 miles north then it is cause a problem??? I am plan to do road test if I get a part ASAP.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I haven't checked with a dealer on price (which alway's has a hugh mark up) but, my local napa has the kit in stock and for $199.99. I refuse to buy from autozone or advanced as they sell 2nd, 3rd and return defect's which i know for fact about this. So becarful of were you buy it from.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The whole pre bled units are time savers. The parts can be purchase separately and bled. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/28-transmission-systems/54-hydraulic-clutch-master-and-slave-replacement When mine went i knew nothing of all this. I went and bought a master cylinder and replaced mine. I thought it real strange there appeared to be no where to bleed it, so I just filled with fluid and installed it loosing fluid the whole time. Got it together and had to pump alot to get it to work. Had to do that for 2 or 3 weeks before it got back to normal. Replaced the slave about 2 years later but it had a bleeder screw on it and was easy to work with. I see you said the clutch will work fine one time and not the next. Again exactly how mine behaved. It would also try and creep forward at a stop sign or light on occasions as the pressure was leaking by. Just another symptom of leaking hydros

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I see you said the clutch will work fine one time and not the next. Again exactly how mine behaved. It would also try and creep forward at a stop sign or light on occasions as the pressure was leaking by. Just another symptom of leaking hydros

That is exact thing happen to me as it had tried to creep forward or reverse also it won't let me get shifter out of the gear when clutch pedal don't feel same. Ii Thanks. I will try do master/ salves assembly

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I went with a DD due to my job i work at a farm implement store and regularly haul multiple tractor's and equipment or my camper once a week during the summer. Average weight is 26k GCVWR with my camper and 30k+ when hauing for work. I checked around and most of the people i know went single disk and regret it one is on his 2 SD in under a year and other's won't try to pull as much due to worrieing about destroying a clutch or worse if it fail's at the wrong time. Ialsochecked with my trans shop, Thoroughbred Diesel, and South Bend they all highly advised a DD over single. I'd prefer to have more then needed then need and not have. But that's just me i also plan on adding more item's as far as power goes just want a solid base to build on.

Very interesting, as it's power and not weight that effects the clutch's ability to hold. If the clutch is rated to hold 900 ft/lbs it shouldn't matter what is attached to the truck as long as you are under 900 ft/lbs.

I know 3 people that were talked into a DD by SBC, local shops, and Valair they wish they hadn't. I also only know 3 people personally with DD's.

The DD's do engage smooth and hold power, but they are stupid noisy at idle/low speed and have horrible vibrations at low rpms, especially when towing.

I am curious to hear how it works out for you.

- - - Updated - - -

As far as hydraulics the SBC stuff is adjustable, Heavy Duty, and well priced.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  



×