Oil pump housing failure, probable rebuild...

[AH64ID]

Why are you not doing the work yourself, seeing what you have done in the past a full teardown is fairly straight forward and I thought you would be capable. Seems if you have time to wait you could have done it yourself...................Just wondering is all.

Hey I know others were thinking what I just asked...........................Someone had to do it

Time and tools are the main reason, and space is another. I could easily tear down, but I don't want to reassemble. Just because I can do it, doesn't mean I want to do it for the first time. I have a lot of mechanical experience and background, and know when it's just best to pay for experience. I am going to peek my head in as things go back together as I really enjoy that stuff.

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Ya, before it's done it will be killing you in more than one way. :-(

Yes it will, but at least it will be a better than stock motor. Gotta have something to look forward to.

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Here is the repainted harmonic damper. I used 500° Engine Rustoleum.

[Wild and Free]

Like I posted before, you should be there documenting the tear down as that is where the learning comes from, knowing what failed and why and how.Are you or the shop going to get high quality picks of the broken stuff?

[Mopar1973Man]

I agree with Bill I would rather be the one to tear down the engine looking at all the damages one piece at a time and documenting everything. Then have a shop look it over as well and between the two make a judgment call on what needs to be replaced, repaired, etc. I know on the assembly process I would do my own if all parts had been machined for me to fit. But usually its just easier for a shop to assemble it for you. Something about taking the time and effort into making this kind of repair really gives you a big learning curve and then being proud of being capable of doing the job as well. As for me I've done a few V8 360's and 318's and even a 383 out of the Charger in my days.

[AH64ID]

The motor is out and apart. It looks like a piece of the timing case is what originally broke. The is a big piece missing from the inside of one of the bolt castings. 2 of the broken pieces, there were many, went thru gears. One broke the cam gear tooth, and the other broke the oil pump (probably the bigger of the 2 pieces). On the good side the motor looks great, no issues with other parts. It will hit the machine shop this week and we go from there. I should know in a few days how the injectors test. So the parts being replaced, on top of standard rebuild items. Water PumpThermostatVacuum PumpOil PumpPilot BearingThrowout BearingSerp BeltRadiator is being cleaned inside/outPistons (QSB 03-04 style)Injector Nozzles (03-04 spray angle, +50hp)Balanced at 2200 rpmsI will paint the block once it's back together.I didn't get any photos today, but will soon.

[diesel4life]

There are no pins that could possibly back out like the 2nd gens were plagued with are there? I know it was supposedly remedied when they went to the 3rd gens, it just seems strange to have a failure such as thisSent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk

[AH64ID]

There are no pins that could possibly back out like the 2nd gens were plagued with are there? I know it was supposedly remedied when they went to the 3rd gens, it just seems strange to have a failure such as this Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk

The KDP is not an issue on 3rd gens. It it is still very odd. There was no indication of cross threading or excess silicone in the hole to cause a failure.

[Mopar1973Man]

So the oil filter did its job huh?

[AH64ID]

The filter did a great job, far better than anticipated. I run an ELF7349, which is unmatched in ratings, so I am not sure another full flow would have done as well. Without taking it apart there was no way to know, filters aren't designed to hold catastrophic failure, just normal wear. I probably could have gotten away withou a full rebuild, but it's out, apart, and getting improved. Going into the the teardown we knew it might be fine, but how/where I use the truck and who I use it with deemed a full inspection necessary. At least now I know what shape the internals are in, have some stronger components, and can continue on...

[diesel4life]

Maybe I missed it, but what is the reason you are replacing the pistons if there was no damage to them? It just seems to me the pistons are one of the components that are capable of a million miles. Rings would be a no brainer to me if I were in there. From what I remember seeing you are still at a relatively low mileage... Not questioning your logic just curious what your aiming for.JR

[AH64ID]

The stock 04.5-07 piston is the weakest piston ever used in an ISB, the spray pattern and bowl design are emissions based and suboptimal. The design was changed back to the 03-04 style for the 6.7, and all QSB's use the 03-04 style bowl on HPCR motors. It's just a more robust design, so if you tear a motor apart there isn't a good reason to stick with the OEM pistons.

[dorkweed]

Can't help but think that this failure had something to do with your cam swap, since a portion of the timing cover is what is believed to be the root cause. Just saying.

[AH64ID]

The break is odd, and the cover has been off but the last time was 33K miles and 3 years ago. That's a long time for a break to manifest, and looking at the break there is no evidence it was caused by the bolt. That's looking at the threads, looking at silicone in the hole, and all of it in general. What was also odd is it broke out the thick side, and if it was from installation it should have been the thin side. It's cast aluminum, over torquing won't break out a chunk .5" wide and 1" long and show no damage to the threads. Trust me, it would probably be cheaper for me if it was from removal/installation errors.

[Wild and Free]

The break is odd, and the cover has been off but the last time was 33K miles and 3 years ago. That's a long time for a break to manifest, and looking at the break there is no evidence it was caused by the bolt. That's looking at the threads, looking at silicone in the hole, and all of it in general. What was also odd is it broke out the thick side, and if it was from installation it should have been the thin side. It's cast aluminum, over torquing won't break out a chunk .5" wide and 1" long and show no damage to the threads. Trust me, it would probably be cheaper for me if it was from removal/installation errors.

I have the info to disprove or prove you right and or wrong as I gave a wee teaser a few posts back. We will not know without me seeing pics so I can help determine the cause of it. BTW...............................just as many breaks in metal happen slowly and over time as do they break from impact, shock loads, excessive torsional loads ect. I gave a couple pages of info about gear breaks.....................I have books of metallurgy and others to determine how and why metals in general breaks as well.

[AH64ID]

I'll get some pic's when I collect the broken pieces. The gears certainly broke from the pieces of the timing case going thru them, we just can't see anything that would cause the timing case to break.

[CSM]

The Nefla Oracle demands photos!

[dorkweed]

I'll get some pic's when I collect the broken pieces. The gears certainly broke from the pieces of the timing case going thru them, we just can't see anything that would cause the timing case to break.

Could it be 180* reversed??? Meaning that the timing case broke because of the gear tooth hitting it!!! Was the case broken near or around the cam gear???

[Wild and Free]

The Nefla Oracle demands photos!

I think you mean knoephla. Guess you need German blood running through your veins to get it right but I won't hold it against you.

http://www.tasteofhome.com/recipes/knoephla-soup

[AH64ID]

Could it be 180* reversed??? Meaning that the timing case broke because of the gear tooth hitting it!!! Was the case broken near or around the cam gear???

They are all in close proximity, but the broken tooth on the cam gear is only 2/3 broken and would have to have grown over an 1" to hit the case. Also we found 2 pieces of the case that went between gears, pretty much says it all right there.

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So here is a look at the front, sorry for size and quality.

The crank spins clockwise when viewed from the front. I don't recall which one it was so I marked two with red dashes. You can see where the broken piece would fall onto the CCW cam gear and get drawn down to the crank gear. One piece rode thru the cam/crank and one got sent over to the oil pump idler gear/pump gear. I previously thought that a piece went between the crank/idler but that would defy gravity (unless the piece from the cam/crank was stuck to the crank).

[Wild and Free]

[Mopar1973Man]

Too bad there isn't any pictures of the front of the engine at tear down.