Jump to content
Mopar1973Man.Com LLC
  • Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

    We are a privately owned support forum for the Dodge Ram Cummins Diesels. All information is free to read for everyone. To interact or ask questions you must have a subscription plan to enable all other features beyond reading. Please go over to the Subscription Page and pick out a plan that fits you best. At any time you wish to cancel the subscription please go back over to the Subscription Page and hit the Cancel button and your subscription will be stopped. All subscriptions are auto-renewing. 

Need Help Asap With Airdog


Recommended Posts

OK, now you really got me thinking. It runs with a jumper, but not a relay? That does not compute. If you pul the fuse and OHM the supply to ground with the relay pulled in and with the jumper, what are the readings?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, now you really got me thinking.

 

It runs with a jumper, but not a relay? That does not compute.

 

If you pul the fuse and OHM the supply to ground with the relay pulled in and with the jumper, what are the readings?

me too....im pretty good with troubleshooting, but im stumped.

 

correct,but the truck is not running(ie started), as pureflow's instructions said do not start the truck.....that is why im stumped.

 

i think u are confused. OHMs is resistance, and u should not check for resistance on a energized circuit. all the places to check voltage read ~12.6volts(pump connection, relay socket,and inline fuse). all the tests for continuity came back 0.00 or 0.01....open is 1.0.

 

i just got in touch with pureflow, and they seem to think the motor needs to be replaced. i do have a lifetime warranty so they gave me 3 options.

1.send them the pump, they fix it and test, then i pay return shipping

2.they send me a motor after i pay a $150 core charge and pay for shipping

3.i can upgrade to a newer 4G pump that they claim is quieter and has more bells and whistles, for $299

 

i have a problem thinking its a bad motor cause it does blow the fuse with a jumper wire...anyone with ideas???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would replace the relay before spending that kind of money...I have not seen a relay ever draw enough amps to pop a fuse but if you can bypass it and the pump runs there may be something in there going on. I dont know if you could match that relay at an autoparts store or if it is AD specific....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would replace the relay before spending that kind of money...I have not seen a relay ever draw enough amps to pop a fuse but if you can bypass it and the pump runs there may be something in there going on. I dont know if you could match that relay at an autoparts store or if it is AD specific....

one of pureflows test were to use a different relay(a 5 blade from the factory PDC box under the hood) in place of airdogs relay. when i did that, the fuse lasted 45-60seconds (of the 9 fuses blown so far, was the longest lived thus far)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is the $299 for the whole set up or just the pump? Not a bad deal for the whole thing if you feel like upgrading, Hopefully they are not having any problems with them.

 

I guess in item 2 the refund the $150 upon receipt of the defective pump?

 

Just wish I had the answer to the original problem. It is just strange.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know not to check OHMs on a live circuit hense the reason for me to say "If you pull the fuse and OHM the supply to ground with the relay pulled in and with the jumper, what are the readings?"

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yah...   I  see my  error  in my post about  ohm'n   the   'power supply to ground'.       I  didn't  say   where to  apply the   first  probe!    I also  said   'it  should  read zero'.  duh..  Me  Bad!        (  Open  circuits   have  infinity  resistance)    *smacks  head*

 

After  disconnecting  the harness  (from the relay)      put a  probe  on the   terminal of the  relay    that   supplies  12 volts to the  pump..    and  the other probe  to any good  ground.     It  should  not  move the needle,  or   digital meter  should  not  move  toward  zero.       Then,   just for  giggles,   you could       jumper  the  terminal  that  triggers  the  solenoid  ONLY......     and   see   if     having it  energized    changes     anything.   (same again,   OPEN circuit)      If  any  continuity at all,   there is  a   short in the  relay.       As  long as  the  relay  isn't supplied  with  12v   to  the  'line in'  terminal,    You'll  be  safe  to  ohm  the   'line out'  terminal   and  ground.

 

Now,  to the  guy  who   has  it  pop the fuse  even  when it's  jumpered,     It's  time  for a  motor/pump

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Owner

I would also replace the relay. Maybe just maybe the reed in the relay is weak and current flow is created resistance in the relay which is driving up the current rate and popping the fuse. Remember as voltage at the load goes down the amperage has to go up to match its working load watts.

 

140w = 14 volts x 10.0 amps

 

140w = 12 volts x 11.6 amps

 

140w = 10 volts x 14.0 amps

 

As you can see just a relay with a bit more resistance can drive the working amperage up in a real hurry. Should see what it does to a engine starter with a weak starter contact or bad battery cables the amperage draw its nearly explosive. This is another reason I typically ask people to do a voltage drop test on the wiring under working loads to see if the circuit is dropping more than 0.2 volts (which is a fail).

 

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/136-voltage-drop-testing-of-wiring-and-feed-cables

Link to comment
Share on other sites

after taking it to a buddy's house, the fuse blew in about 60 seconds with the relay removed and a jumper wire in the relay socket. it was the first time that test failed. i think that pureflow's assessment was correct. i have decided that im well under 500hp so dont need more flow, and the sound of the airdog is what alerted me to the problem. therefore, i shipped my 150 to jefferson city, mo....

thanks to everyone for your thoughts on this problem...i had me tricked. i will update u guys when the pump is on the truck again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Glad I've got the raptor 100 then. Lol.

Any chance a dealer can get some straight skinny from AirDog? Won't be long at this rate that they will reputation themselves out of the business.

I hate to support a crappy product by buying another. But has anyone else bought a back up raptor to keep in their truck? Probably take 10 minutes to change one out and avoid tow bill. Which could easily approach the cost of a second pump.

Edited by joecool911
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Owner

Airdog recovery kit. 3 speeds, adjustable clutch for better pressure regulation & if the Ricer pulls up, put it in Hammer Mode.... There is an upgrade kit at True Value, Braided stainless hoses for $26.00

 

Ed

 

I bet that if you could wire that drill in to the 12V and mount it somewhere it would work better than AirDog.

 

With all the people I talk to on the phone AirDog quality is at a all time low really.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...