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how would ready this motor to test start.


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Picked up a short 12 valve. 4BT when they pulled the motor they took the valve covers off and then cut out some of the front of the aluminum bodied bread truck and got shaving on the valve train. a lot of it blew off on the 50 mile trip home. I have cleaned the motor and blew off as much as possible and have put the valve covers back on. I have never run the motor and plan to fire it up and they drain the oil and replace it. any other suggestion or better ideas. before the install into my 53 Chevy. I want to do the KDP, adj. the valves, New crank seal and install my new to me NV4500 trans chevy bell housing. thanks guys. I here all this talk of KBS but my motor does not have one??

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I would take a few gallons of cheap gas or ATF and rinse all the debris down through the pan with the plug out. Then drain well over night load with oil. Strap it down with 4 or so ratchet straps using blocks and everything to steady the engine. Do your test fire. Even after the engine is installed to a vehicle I would only run maybe one day then change the oil again. At least knowing you got all the debris out of the system.

 

As you'll see you can do a test start on a pallet.

 

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I would take a few gallons of cheap gas or ATF and rinse all the debris down through the pan with the plug out. Then drain well over night load with oil. Strap it down with 4 or so ratchet straps using blocks and everything to steady the engine. Do your test fire. Even after the engine is installed to a vehicle I would only run maybe one day then change the oil again. At least knowing you got all the debris out of the system.

Sounds like a plan, I think my boy had a similiar way of doing it glad it is al. and not sand or iron filings.

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I would take a few gallons of cheap gas or ATF and rinse all the debris down through the pan with the plug out. Then drain well over night load with oil. Strap it down with 4 or so ratchet straps using blocks and everything to steady the engine. Do your test fire. Even after the engine is installed to a vehicle I would only run maybe one day then change the oil again. At least knowing you got all the debris out of the system.

Diesel fuel works good too as a flush. Ya know, it'd take what, 12 minutes to pop the oil pan off and really KNOW if you have it clean and you would have a new gasket to boot! roll the panless engine up on it's butt, (bellhousing) and spray your rinse all up and down too.

Where'd ya get your 4bt? Ever since Wonderbread went 'south', there's been a flood of these. seems like most of them were spec'd with either a TH400 or Muncie 4 speed.

I see yours has the rotary injection pump. My neighbor has a 4bt tied to a Chrysler 727 trans, stuffed down in a chevy 1500. He averages 27 mpg.

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Diesel fuel works good too as a flush. Ya know, it'd take what, 12 minutes to pop the oil pan off and really KNOW if you have it clean and you would have a new gasket to boot! roll the panless engine up on it's butt, (bellhousing) and spray your rinse all up and down too.

Where'd ya get your 4bt? Ever since Wonderbread went 'south', there's been a flood of these. seems like most of them were spec'd with either a TH400 or Muncie 4 speed.

I see yours has the rotary injection pump. My neighbor has a 4bt tied to a Chrysler 727 trans, stuffed down in a chevy 1500. He averages 27 mpg.

There are a few of these on sale around town, ebay has them all the time I paid $1500 with the chevy 4 speed sm465, I am actually leaving this afternoon to pick up the NV4500 newer version 1999.  It does not have the motor tag so my guess it is the 105 hp model. heavy like the 6bt.  about 750 lbs. + the trans. Hope to recoup some of my money on the 4 speed and bellhousing great trans. but I have an explorer rear end on my S10 frame with 3.73 gears and the better option was to get the od trans rather they deal with the gear change in the rear end.

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Dang, you got a good price if it's a good runner. Gave $2k for mine and I need to pull the head because #4 smokes a little. Mine has the ve pump,and it's rated at 105hp

Chances are Ed's engine is real close to yours. It has a VE pump on it too.

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i second taking pan off, putting engine over a big catch pan and pouring diesel/gas over the valve train and washing it all away, then tilt on its bellhousing and inspect. id spray the tappet faces and cam with wd40 to get between there and loosen stuff that may have caught there.  clean the oil pickup tube as well, put it all back together, run cheap oil in it for a day then change filter oil to good stuff and be good.

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Just scatter the motor. Metal shavings are major FOD. All it should cost you is a seal kit and some time... unless you find something bad that you would end up replacing anyway.

Edited by CSM
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