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Brakes and Exhaust

Hawkez
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Hawkez

Hawkez

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My original plan was to change the front brake pads. I figured it would be a good idea to flush the brake fluid before removing the calipers, taking them apart and cleaning them and reinstalling them.  I started in the back and right out of the gates I hit a road block.  The bleeder valve on the rear cylinder was rusted tight and it sheared off when I tried force it.  Guess what?  The other side was the same way.  I replaced them both and in the process I sprung a leak in the middle of a brake line.  I replaced the brake line and FINALLY got moving with things.  I flushed the system fairly well and found a lot of sludge inside both calipers.  They did clean up nice and there was no noticeable scars or damage to anything.  The seal kit that I bought was the wrong kit.  My calipers don't have the two separate pistons, it is just one large piston.  It was late and I wasn't about to make a fourth parts run.  The seals did look good and I cleaned them up the best I could.  I would have much preferred to replace them.  I put everything together and it drove 100% better.  The shimmy was gone and I was home free.

 

A couple of days ago the shimmy started to come back, slowly, as I applied brakes.  Today, after I flushed the power steering I took it for a spin around the block and the shimmy was getting me worried and pissed off.  I can feel the steering wheel shake and there is a pulsing feel--only when I am pushing on the brakes.  I parked in my drive way and I could smell brake.  I stuck my head in the wheel well and the driver’s side was hot, the passenger’s side smelled/felt fine.  I would bet the farm that the caliper is sticking because after I put it back together last week the braking was smooth.  There isn't too much to a caliper and I don't want to buy a new one, however, could this be caused due to bad seals?  It is easy enough to remove and take apart but would I be better off just replacing the entire caliper?

 

Oh yeah, exhaust.  As I was under my truck farting around with brake lines last week I noticed that my tail pipe, right where it comes out of the muffler had completely rusted through and that last section is dangling on the hangers.  I was hoping that there would be enough metal to clamp or weld to rejoin the two sections, but there isn't.  I am sure I could replace the muffler and piece in a coupler for a fix, or would it be better and more cost effective to just install a new exhaust from the turbo to the back bumper.  Any product I should consider?

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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As for the calipers you didn't clean the pistons up and check them for size? With all the seals out the pistons should drop to the bottom without being pushed. I typically tune each piston back to the bore using a fine grade of sandpaper and lightly sand the caked on brake fluid off the pistons. Little at a time check the piston to bore fit.

 

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MnTom

MnTom

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The amount of exhaust you need to replace depends on the condition of it. I replaced the tail pipe a couple of times and had to find a 3"x4" increaser. After the third tail pipe rusted I finally went and replaced the exhaust. I got a smoking deal from a vendor I know and went from the turbo back with a 4". My only complaint is since I am getting older the noise when towing is somewhat louder than I would like. It is not bad mind you, but loud enough that there is no mistaking the sound when towing.

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MnTom

MnTom

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145# is a touch over torque specs. The specs are 120 to 140 lbft torque. I have torqued mine to 120 lbft and have not had any issues what so ever, but then again I use a torque wrench on every wheel I pull and put back on.

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Hawkez

Hawkez

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Just remembered something too, one winter driving 4runner I had vibration in front, sometimes braking sometimes not. Anyway ended up being ice on inside of rims froze uneven.

I wish that were the case here.  it has been too warm for anything to ice up.  They are calling for temps around 60* by this weekend.

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