2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Today i went out and popped my hood to check the oil and noticed my drivers side negative battery cable was unhooked like it came loose. I thought i fixed my apps when i reset it but i must have just forgot to put the negative cable back on the battery. So is my rapid studdering a bad APPS? or is it a bad alternator? I do have the p0122 code and it cleared while the cable was unhooked. I dont wanna replace one and have it be the other. But while the negative cable was unhooked i didnt have any issue with my shuddering. Im kinda stuck until i figure this out.cause i cant drive over 50mph without it shuddering like crazy. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, k…

Please help. I was driving home from a nearby town, and my CEL came on, all of my dash gauges quit working and the odometer says "NO BUS". When i got home, I scanned for codes and came up with these: -P1698 - No CCD, message fom TCM -P0383 - Generic Grid heater relay -P1687 - No mechanical instrument cluster BUS message -P1694 - No CCd message from PCM - Aisin transmission -P0122 - Low imput throttle position sensor circuit low imput - I replaced the apps 2 months ago with a Timbo unit. Any insight would be much appreciated! --- Update to the previous post... Any chance i have a bad ECM?

First time poster long time listener. Last night I had a buddy flash my 2002 ram 3500 6speed 4x4 with his smarty to enable the high idle. The truck hasn't ran since last night, so this morning I tried what MoparMan said with the 100k ohm resistor and the intake air temp and the idle should ramp up within upto 5 minutes to make sure the feature is enabled. I sat and didn't touch anything and waited for it to do its magic. After 10 minutes of waiting it hasn't done anything. Since a few days ago the wait to start light works before starting but both heating elements wont run simultaneously based of watching the volt meter. When I hooked up the resistor the wait to start lig…

So, I've owned my truck for 6 years, it has 135k miles on it, never drivin in winter.... it has an edge comp and has been 100% reliable and has never broken down... last summer I was driving and the truck started to loose power, I immediately pulled over to find fuel dripping and sprayed on the driver side of the motor. I still had 15psi at idle. I found the return fuel line was snapped off right after the banjo bolt connection. All things behind the pump and under got wet. I fixed the line with a new oem line and over flow banjo bolt with gaskets. **I proceeded to drive it and the truck wouldn't rev up over 1700 rpm, went dead pedal then tried to g…

I went to smog my truck in CA and when the tech plugged in to the OBD2 his computer could not communicate with my truck. He asked if i had a tuner or something on the truck. After 3 shops all unable to read the OBD2 i am left scratching my head. Would flashing ECM or PCM help? Need to pass ASAP! The truck has never been tuned. but did have the ECM reflashed in 2019 by Auto computer specialists truck runs great. no codes. Any help would be great.

Really cold here in Arizona last night - single digits - truck started, let her warm up a few minutes, went on down the road and died - believe it might be gelled fuel and need guidance on best course of action. Any help appreciated. Thanks. --- Update to the previous post... Forgot to mention I had it towed home and is sitting in garage right now.

Ok, so here's the deal. I took my truck on a 1200 mile round trip to see family for thanksgiving, and on the way there the truck ran great. I averaged 19.67 MPG, but I was empty and not pulling a trailer. So then on the way back I was pulling a 24 foot flatbed trailer hauling a steel flatbed that I am going to put on my truck (weighs a couple hundred pounds). The truck had no power and got 10.32 MPG on the return trip. Also the ABS and BRAKE lights are now on and when I rev above 2300 RPM's I can hear a hissing noise from behind the dash, it sounds like it is comming from right behind the airbag on/off switch area, but it is hard to tell for sure (also it makes this noise…

So to save some time I did install the rear main first ***the first time*** but due to some dunce from Oklahoma, the rear main housing had a hole that was stripped, so obviously I had to replace it. At this point I had already installed the oil pan so I tried to reinstall another rear main housing without messing up the oil pan and what do you know, the gasket slipped inside of the pan and now the pan won't come off. Instead of using RTV on the pan I used this Permatex spray gasket and it seals pretty well apparently! Any tips on how to remove it without damaging the gasket or anything? I'll leave some pics of what the oil pan gasket looks like under the rear main. If I c…

Year of truck: 2000Motor: 5.9 CumminsMods: None...However, I just had the AC guy evacuate and refill the AC to his spec. How is the truck primarily used: Just used to go to work, however, i recently purchased the truck from a guy that wasnʻt using it much. Seems like it was sitting for quite sometime. When did the issue start, and if it's intermittent or all the time: The truck turned off last week thursday, and restarted easily. On friday(7/22) i parked it on a hill(running) and it died. I rolled it down and on the side of my house and now it wonʻt start. It throws a P0123 and P1639 code and wont start for sh!t. I can hear the Lift Pump priming, and hit the schrader valv…

Okay so i bought this truck and drove it with no problems except for having to rebuild the weak auto trans , but i was driving it for about 15 minutes and got it good and hot then i stopped at a store and when i came back outside to leave, when i started my truck back up the engine started revving uncontrollably up and down like i was stomping on the pedal really fast on and off. I turned it off and caught a ride from somebody else and when i came back later, it started up just fine and i drove it home. Ever since, this has happened maybe 4 times and once it happened while i was driving. I got to a red light and the truck shut off, when i tried to start it back up same th…

Howdy All, I have a 2wd 01 2500 5.9 with very few modifications. Primarily an Airdog Raptor FRRP a K&N filter and a 5" turbo back exhaust. I normally run 1oz/gal of Walmart 2 stoke oil in my fuel and my truck as been an absolute workhorse and has run super smooth....until this morning. I filled up with fuel yesterday and ran about 65 miles. This morning, I headed out to the hunting property. As I got onto the highway and accelerated, my truck started "stutering" (for lack of a beter term) as the RPM climbed. I pulled off of the highway, and put the truck in neutral. With the truck in neutral, I slowly reved the motor up to 4500 RPM and it went up nice and sm…

Hello all. New here......Just picked up a 98.5 2500 Auto trans 255K I have no cluster and says “No Bus”. Ive checked all the grounds cant find anything wrong. I got the truck from a friend of a friend and he said the cluster went out like a month after he had work done to the trans . My edge Insight only has code P1698 “no transmission bus messages” truck runs and drives fine and has for I believe years since the cluster went out Anyone got any ideas ???? I also need to reseal the vacuum pump anyone have any trick of in seas to make that job easier ? Thanks.

So a buddy of mine, messing around in the snow today hit a curb with the rear right tire on his 01 HO truck. Now when I say hit I mean HIT it hard. The part of the rim where they clip weights on folded over onto the rim and broke. The axle is sitting 1/2in or more to the driver side, and the tire is sitting further back in the wheel well, almost rubbing the mudflap. It was packed with snow when he called me over, but from what I could gather the U bolts on the passenger side are bent, shifting the axle to the side. The block is also not centered between the U bolts anymore. It looks like it may have sheared the bolt that sticks through the bottom of the spring and sl…

Here you go gang... Someone over at TDG.com started a poll asking about what fuel additives they are using over at TDG.com. Surprise! I really did make a difference in all my hard work and studing... :thumbsup http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/s ... hp?t=67786

I've been having problems with my truck hesitating after about 10 minutes. Felt like a fuel supply issue. After seeing my fuel heater actually smoking I pulled the relay and have not had any problems with hesitation, and actually it seems as though I have a bit more power. I've read a lot on several forums about symptoms similar to mine, but no one has mentioned the fuel heater circuit as a potential cause. I just wanted to let the forum know that I had this issue that seems to be cured by disabling the fuel heater. No idea why this would cause a hesitation problem, except if the fuel got so hot that the VP would shut down, but I've never seen codes to indicate this.

My buddies 2002 cummins runs fine up to 20mph then it will lose power. You can put the petal to the floor and after about 10 seconds it will take off. Then it will run fine until you stop and start off again. I does idle good and has no smoke. He has no mods. 78000 miles. …

Hex0rz showed up at my house to trade out his +75 HP injectors for my stockers. This allowed him to keep going on his trip. For some reason his +75HP injectors are growing oil so there is a injector issue. So I cleaned my stock injectors up and installed them for him. Hex0rz and Mrs Hex0rz wait for me to do the work. So of course the engine was hot and I plunged right in. Managed to swap all 6 injectors in 1.5 hours.

Newbie here, I was turned on to this site through cummins forum and thought this would be a good place to start. I have a 1999 2500 with an exhaust and pretty much stock elsewise she has 240,000 miles and a rebuilt automatic transmission with over over a 100,000 miles and it is now acting up again, cant say im suprised though. Im new here and to most other forums, because i usually just put my head down and try to work it out but now i am completly stumped, i dont know how much work is involed in converting it to a stick or if it would even be a good idea, I pull a 25 foot dump trailer daily so I dont even know if i want to go stick or stay with the auto, any sugestions…

On the HFRR chart, it shows the rating for the 2 stroke oil at 474 at a 200:1 ratio. That is not the ratio most of us run. Do we know the HFRR at 128:1? That would move it up the chart a few spots I bet... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/hfrr/hfrr.htm

Hello every one yes It's me again!! I have a weird Idling @ start up any time regardless of weather temperature and effecting battery amps. after getting warm abut 160 or 165 no up & down but still high rpm Please tell me what is going on? Is there any way I can post the video more than 24.82mb so you can see Exactly what I mean? my video is larger than we allowed.