2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I saw somebody post a question about injector nozzles. It would seem that the more you can atomize the fuel when it comes out of the injector the better. I am looking at the Bosch 40 horse or 50 horse injectors. Are the nozzles on these injectors adequate? What increase in hp are the 275 injectors? Not sure what the nomenclature of 275 means here. Is there a reason to save your old injectors? Can they be brought back to life with pop testing and new nozzles?

Any one out there ever here of a Workhorse ultimate performance modal?I have one that I took of my truck before I replaced my vp44 and had my ecm rebuilt. I don't know if I should put it back on or not.It did give me a little better mileage.This is what the name tag on the modual says. model stage 3 type fuel/boost part no.2009WH Item no.504125 Lot no.4120-2 date of manufacture 12/16/2008 s/n 00/0050

Just got new 60hp DAP injectors and got them installed, blead the lines and fired it up. Right of the batt truck ran like crap, poor throttle response and some hissing sound from exhoust. Then I went to turn it off and it won't turn off, took the key out of ignition and it ran until I taped accelerator pedal, and then it shut off. Never had this happen before and not sure what causes this bad injectors or something else. Ran great before the swap. Did everything exact same way that I did last week when I cleaned my original injectors that I thought were 100hp until I pled them out and relized that they were stock, so I decided to go with 60hp for better mpg and power, and…

I am needing to replace my “Fan hub bearing” as dodge calls it. I'm looking for some general tips / feedback etc, if anyone has replaced the fan hub bearing before. Listed below are few specific questions 1) Based on the diagrams I've found on line the “hub” bolts to the front of the engine, once the bolts are removed any surprises there I should be aware off. 2) From my research the bearing is pressed in, tips to get it out and re-isntalled. I do not have access to a press aside from a rubber mallet, block of wood, bottle jack etc., 3) Tips removing the fan clutch, (saw one that said use c clamp to hold fan pulley in place). The threads on the fan clutch are …

I know a guy that had new injectors installed and a few other things like the KDP done and exhaust manifold surfaced. He spent $4,000. Does anyone know what the labor charge or at least the number of hours it should take a shop to change my injectors?

So for the past few weeks my fuel pressure has dropped from 19 psi at idle and 17 psi cruising, down to 16 psi at idle and 14 psi cruising. I have checked all my hoses and they look good, put a clamp on one hose that may have had an issue. If I park the truck facing down hill it will start after a week of setting no problem, but if the truck sits level or facing up hill then it takes a long time cranking to start. If I bump the starter and let the fuel pump cycle then it will usually start quickly. I have notice that as the tank gets lower it seems that the fuel pressure drops one or two psi. Other than starting over with a new fuel pump and big line kit, I am not su…

I was having a yarn with a Dodge mechanic a while age and mentioned how my truck seems to really work nice once you get rolling and the auto is in overdrive and the converter locks up. He said it was built that way on purpose and thet Dodge calls it torque management. Supposedly helps the trans live a little longer. Is this correct, I tried a search but found lots of other stuff. Not so much on this. I may have even asked about it before, thought I already bugged you about it. How does it do this, i would assume it regulates the timing and fuel somewhere along the line. Thanks. Chris

Was driving home the other day and got a "Water in fuel" warning light on the dash. Now I have the "latest greatest" AirDog 165 and filters so should not have a water issue. Have been draining the fuel drain on the AirDog every couple of months and getting a few drops of water, but never more than a half of a teaspoon, so am hoping that the "water in fuel" warning light is in error. Anyone have this issue and where should I go from here? Thx, FT PS did a search for this and got millions of hits, mostly for fuel and not water in fuel...

I have a 98 cummins 24v just turned 92000 miles, stock as far as i know. It sis come with 2 gauges, boost and fuel pressure, though itès only 15psi. It used to bury the needle just after startup. But recently, on a fifth wheel trip to the southeast, it started at about 9 psi and slowly rose to about 14 psi. It was shortly after a fiilup so i thought it might be bad fuel, so i added some diesel kleen in the white bottle and things seem to improve somewhat. I continued on to cold Canada, where i am cuurently at a friends place and the fifth wheel is sitting in a public parking lot (with permission, of course). Yesterday I started it up and it was at 6 psi, and rose slowly …

I have a 98.5 24v cummins 5speed, It has a cracked block and a bad lift pump, probably bad IP, so I would like to do a 12v swap. To have a fully functioning truck, cruise, check engine light, stock gauges, etc what are my options? 1. I have read that I need a 98 pcm, but wouldn't there be more then one part number for 98 pcms? I could see there being different ones for: (auto/manual), (cruise/no cruise), (California, non cali emissions) (air conditioning/ or no a/c). Is there a part number list? Am I wrong is it much simpler? 2. What about a 97 pcm, would it not communicate with the other computers and instrument cluster? 3. Which harnesses do I need? I read I need fire…

Noticed pulling the trailer the other day that it was easy to get into the 1200 degree range on the egt's. Would a little bigger turbo like a gen 3 or 4 help with dropping the egt's a little. Have the comp on 5X3, have not played with it at all. Boost is in the 25-30 range. New to this diesel power stuff. lol Soon to add RV 275's

Ok so i turn the ingition switch on and The dash lights are dead, no radio, no wipers. no instrument panel, fuel pump does not cycle on for the normal two seconds, and the wait to start light dose not come on. tail lights work, head lights work, hazard lights work heater fan comes on and blows air. When i turn the ignition switch to the start position the blower turns off and that is it. My three gages on the pillar light up when the ignition switch is turned on but the have no power and do not light. I checked the fuses and i am thinking that the ignition switch may be bad. not sure how to check just a guess really.

Just like the title says... the truck won't shift out of 1st at any throttle position unless I take my foot completely off the throttle, then get back on it. Once it's out of 1st and past ~28mph, it shifts 2-3 and 3-4 completely normally. It will try to kick down into 1 if I go WOT/WFO under about 45mph. And if I floor it at low speed, it'll hold 1st all the way to redline, and won't shift. Is this a governor issue? I replaced the solenoid and sensor back in 2010 with dealer parts. I'm ready to order the Suncoast governor kit, I just want to make sure it's (probably) not something else...

well the fuse problem i had a few months ago was fixed with a new fuse, temporarily. yesterday on a 300 mile trip i had to replace the fuse 9 times to keep from driving the truck with 0 fuel pressure.. i even ran out of fuses and had to start pulling them from unneeded things in my instrument panel.. well anyways, i bought the truck used and the previous owner did not send in a warranty card, so ill be buying a replacement motor for it. as i said im the 2nd owner, i have never worked with something like this, from what i can tell the motor just bolts onto the mounting bracket and the fuel hose is connected on there.. can someone please list me the st…

Found oil in the coolant so I pulled the head off this weekend and will be dropping the head off at the machine shop tomorrow. I was wondering what everyone though the best head gasket was to use. I now have 100 horse scheid injectors. and will be adding a hx40, ats exhaust manifold, and arp studs at this time. Truck will be sled pulled and drag raced some but also daily driven. Thanks

Just got Draw Straw 5 from Vulcan to help with 1/4 tank sucking air problem. I got an upgraded in tank fuel pump module. This kit replaces in tank pump with clip in aluminum fitting and flex hose to top of sending unit. Then it says to replenish fuel back to module I need to use factory outlet (that's not used anyway) as return a quick connect that is 3/8 and new fitting is 3/8 to 1/2 barb. Before I did this my return was going to filler neck. So now that I got it all plumed according to instructions my fuel pressure went up to 22 where before it was 19. The only thing I can think of is restriction in return going from air dog to module, the actual hole in module is just …

I believe my drag link is wore out? The auto parts store website calls them the tie rod ends? There is some play in my steering wheel, but it doesn't wander around on the road. What I'm trying to figure out is if this is causing the vibration that I am having. It only happens between 30mph to 45mph. I don't really feel it in the steering wheel, just mainly in the floor board. The vibration is there weather I am braking, cruising, or accelerating. But like I said Its only between 30 and 45mph. Between 0-29mph and 46-above, its very smooth. Any ideas? I plan on going with moog parts. If I uploaded it right, I added a video of the drag link movement. tie…

Hey guys, finally got enough funds to install a Boost, Pyro, and the much needed Fuel Pressure Guages! I looked in to having them installed but it's going to run me around $300.00! So I thought I'd save my self some $ and try to find a step by step installion for them. Does anybody know where I can get my instructions preferably with pics? Thanks to all who chime in!!!!

My truck has been sitting for several weeks in the shop not being used. It has never leaked anywhere except the crankcase vent then only a couple of drops after parking. I have the 47 tranny, 4 wheel drive with 102,000 miles. I dropped the tranny pan and adjusted the bands about 5K ago and filled with fresh fluid. Pan was very clean. Now after sitting probably 7 weeks I start seeing a leak where the transfer case and tranny meet. It didn't start leaking until this week. Any ideas?

Hey all! This post my fall into the category of post whoring but I'd like to risk that in the hopes that it may help somebody else out when trying to decide what to do with their 47/48RE when it needs a bit of help. I want to be very clear here, the transmission in my truck had just a hair over 100k on it when I was contemplating this. I also know how it was driven since I know the PO of the truck. He didn't flog on it and took it in for service at the dealer every 25k just like clockwork. I felt very confident that it was in reasonably sound shape. I was experiencing TC clutch lockup slippage on the stock TC. It started when towing my 32 foot travel trailer b…