2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

My truck starts hard after a couple days of sitting, like I ran out of fuel. I read somewhere about a loose fitting or something that can cause this but can't find the thread now. Is it possible the fass is bleeding off pressure? I don't see any leaks or weeping anywhere.

Got some questions about swapping an ECM. I am having issues with my WTS light and no pump prime at key on or bump start. All grounds and fuse's have been checked. Can a smarty reprogram the replacement ECM or does a dealer have to do it? Will any ECM work from a 1998.5-2002? I have heard the 01-02 wont work on a 1998-2000 because of the crank/cam sensor difference? Dose it matter if the replacement ECM is from a automatic or manual transmission? Some say it will work, some say they wont program? On the back of ECM's there are part numbers, serial numbers, and some other series of numbers that aren't labeled. Should I try to match a particular number on the EC…

If you have a Smarty & are willing to flash trucks to enable High Idle for other users, where are you & how far are you willing to travel? Thank you, Ed

Is anyone running Delo 400 MG 15w-40 instead of Delo 400 LE 15w-40 I can only find the MG at a local Oil distrubutor referenced from the chevron web site for $82.30 for 5 gal ($16.46 per gal). The stuff should be $10 a gal if walmart carried it.

Just noticed today that the oil pressure is way high while driving and not really moving even upon reaching operating temperature. Driving pressure at low throttle is 60-70 at full temp. and idling is right around 60. Here's the gauge, full operating temp. while idling... Even before starting, the gauge shows 40, then after start up right to the 60-70 mark and doesn't move much. I'm hoping this is just the sending unit and not a bearing or electrical problem. Any insights? Thank you ps...I know I have oil pressure because I didn't tighten the turbo oil return line enough and it was leaking, I tightened a couple days ago and no more leaks.

To start with make sure you have the supplies to complete the install: 1. Wire crimpers and strippers 2. Wire connectors 3. Gauge pod for the steering wheel 4. electrical tape 5. Add-a-circuit fusible tap 6. Tons of zip ties 7. Wire connectors with a round end for a screw or bolt 8. Two sided tape (Usually comes with gauge mount) 9. Fuses 10. Sockets, screwdrivers, dikes, razor blade Next the install! 1. Take the front knee board off and set it to the side without losing the screws 2. Run the wires for the fooler through the gauge pod 3. At this step you can either use the supplied glue to hold the fooler tight against the mount, or you ca…

So I'm running my stock turbo and I have the ability to get a turbo out of an 04 5.9. Would it be an upgrade over my stock turbo if so what else would I to do to make it work.

Just installed a genuine holset 60mm compressor wheel and housing on the WH1C, from GDS. I believe it was a 56/60/12 and now it's a 60/60/12. Only took it on a small victory ride but it seemed to pull better in lock up in the lower rpms and up high too. Already had a boost elbow and a 38 lb spring waste gate. I was wondering if anyone has experience with hybrids and how efficient they are for around 400 horsepower. With my current mods: edge comp, 60 hp injectors I should have around 415 hp at the crank and I'm done increasing power. No sled pulls or track time, is the 60mm compressor too much for 12cm turbine housing?...no gauges yet

I have a 99 4wd auto, bone stock. The tranny doesn't want to shift out of first. I have replaced the output shaft speed sensor, the governor pressure sensor and transducer. I also replaced the ecm due to the delayed WTS light/fuel pump issue. I checked my alternator for AC noise using a snap on meter it it was 0.03 to 0.05. I've owned the truck for 4 months and it appears to have a fairly new alternator. I took the truck to a local tranny shop (long time biz) he hooked it up to a snap on solus scanner and we drove the truck for about 20 minutes. During that time he said the computer had the p1693 and he couldn't communicate with the body control module. My door chimes, po…

hi all thank you for being a beacon of hope in the realm of . . . well lets just say "stealerships" ok here's the deal. bout 3 months ago this here cummins decided to not start as happily as usual, 80k miles, all maintenance on schedule. normal start procedure, hit the key, roooma zoom zoom, or chugada chugada chugada, what ever your preffered description. now frequently, but not always, after a 5+ hour no run, it may take two -3-4-5 starter engages to get the fire lit, or not, it still occasionally fires on the first starter engage. a week ago started tracking ambient temp at start up, not sure yet, but reluctant start appears to be bel…

I have been looking for two days for a 2001 3500 fuel lever sending unit module without the fuel pump in it but, I can not find one. Anybody know where I can get one?? I have an Airdog 165 with a fuel module upgrade kit on it and one of the return lines is cracked sucking air :banghead: . My fuel pressure gauge is jumping from 16 to 19 erratically . I don't think installing a Vulcan draw straw would help me because, I still need to have that port for a return maybe? I am not sure. The Vulcan has three ports on it maybe I can some how plug the broke one off if I don't have to use it. Anybody know? Thanks for any suggestions

Well since most of my truck is now straight water since the issue I had this morning. I have been researching the coolant for my truck and find out it is the plain ethylene glycol (Green) antifreeze. Low silicate and meets requirements of ASTM D-3306 and ASTM D-4985. My only question is because of reading about cavitation errosion issues with diesels. Is the 98.5-02 Cummins ok with this antifreeze alone or do I need to add an SCA additive to the mix??

Ok so today at the park the truck didn't start. checked codes, found no codes, checked fuses all were good. swapped starter solenoid no change. Took the starter out, cleaned contacts reassembled, no change. Jumped from the battery to the solenoid and the truck cranked, fires right up... Now the airbag $ ABS lights are on and the Speedometer nor the odometer are working, however the fuel mileage went down a bit. Will check and see if the trip miles change on the drive, I suspect not. Truck drives fine. Still wonder what is wrong? Any ideas?

Well the truck just hit 163K miles and I ran out of water this morning. I already knew before I popped the hood because of two things...lol 1. I slowly lost heat in the cab. 2. Truck started to overheat almost immediately after I lost all heat. This happened to me about 2 weeks ago and I didn't think anything of it at first, but from the looks of it I can't find traces of any water leaks anywhere. So I guess I will throw the coolant pressure tester on the truck and see where I spring a leak. I am thinking water pump most likely due to the nature of the beast and the search button feature lol.

Hi guys, got the new grid heater battery jumper wire set I had ordered. I put it on, tried it and fried it in 5 seconds- bye bye $40. Anyway, I just followed the troubleshooting instructions here after this disaster: http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/troubleshooting/Maniford_htr.htm I have .1 or 0 Ohms (depending on the multimeter setting) across the heater grid terminals as stated in the 2002 instructions. But it seems like you wouldn't want 0 if going from the grid terminals to ground as that would in indicate a direct short to ground. If I jump the grid straight to the battery its like a welder. Anyone have any issues with this before? I took the intake horn…

Where can I find the BHAF heat shield template link, so I can print it on my printer?

For the unlucky few who may have a dud air dog or fass laying around, (as in bad motor or wore out pump)... re-use just the filter/air separation part as part of a belt driven system? Seems like everything is self contained/sourced. your water/air separation, regulator.... just remove the motor and gut the pump, block off/seal and presto? (ok, would have to move it downstream of the belt driven pump).. I've bled out my eyes reading hundreds of posts over on CF about the dtt guy promising a cheap diy 'kit'.... which eventually ended up as his ' COMPLETE' setup. He drew me in with 'che…

I took my Edge Ez off a little over a year ago and forgot about the edge elbow. Should I put the stock elbow back in or is there any advantage to the edge elbow?

Has anyone crossed the Air Dog filters to a different brand? I'm in a pinch and need to pick up both filters today if I can find them locally. Thanks.

Ed sent me a high idle switch for me to install into my overhead console, and do a write-up on it This is for guys that have no where else to put it due to too many gauges, or in the rare case like Jigabop who has too many options :hehe: Ed extended the length of the wiring to allow for the wires to be run from the overhead console, under the headliner, down the A pillar, and into the engine bay. Whole install took about 2 hours. You will need - Drill - 2 1/8" whole saw - Smaller drill bit to drill the center ( 1/4" - 3/8" something small to ensure the center hole is in the right position) - Center Punch - Straight Edge/Ruler 1/16" - X Acto Knife - Wire cut…