2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Ok Gentelman I need some opinions on this one. Iv'e seen Mopar1973Man's page on 24v "Valve Lash Adjustment", and according to his your supposed to turn the bolt in the center of the Alternator to get to TDC, or BDC. But iv'e seen videos of guys turning the bolt directly behind the Crankcase Vent to get to TDC, OR BDC. So my questions is which "bolt" to turn? Then again it is 5:00 a.m. maybe my brains not working yet

Got my Frantz bypass filter installed. I am running the BHAF, so I mounted the filter in the same area screwed to the wheel well. I changed my oil and main filter at the same time. Had 10,000 miles on the oil and filter. Deborah tried to talk me into not changing my oil, but I had an aversion to that concept. Upon initial fire up it took a minute or two for the oil to start coming out the line to the oil fill cap. One it started coming out I was surprised at the volume. I assumed it would be less. My oil has never stayed amber color after oil change. It has had a dark tinge to it as soon as things started circulating after oil change. After a few days the oil is visibly…

I am replacing the batteries in my truck (they were very dead when I tried leaving for work this morning). I also need to replace the terminals as they are pretty beat up. I don't have a wire gauge tool but by my measurements based on copper diameter tell me the positive crossover between the batteries as well as both negative cables are 3/0 (000) and the positive between the starter and driver side battery is 5/0 (00000). Can anyone confirm this? That starter cable is certainly large! I'm having a bit of a time even finding a terminal that size. I'm all ears if you've got suggestions. Thank you very much!

Is it worth spending $250 on a deep transmission pan? Or just weld drain plug on stock pan? Thanks

Can't figure this out, please, help. My truck turns on and runs.. But non of my gauges are working on the dash. The odometer window says no bus. Any one have this happen?

Driving to work yesterday, on the highway at 65 or so, everything is normal.Noticed that the tach needle burped... went from 2000 rpm to halfway to zero to a second then back up to normal.Another mile down the road and it got worse... tach needle went to zero and the overhead display shows "CCD" or the like. Engine runs fine, not a miss. Tach starts working a bit later and the overhead display returned to normal.Got to work and shut the truck down and restarted it and it runs fine, checked for codes and did not find any.Anyone ever have this happening and if so what in the world is it?? Thanks,FT

hey there guys i was curious if any one has swapped 6.7 turbo on to there 5.9 and actually used a stand alone set up iam kinda curious if anyones got like a parts list of what a guy would need and how to run coolant line to and from turbo

I am in the middle of changing another VP I have done so many of these I keep one in stock on the shelf in my shop, but i have 8 of these trucks to keep going. Anyway I have been trying to figure more out about this pump, at least why they fail, more to the point why mine fail. I normally take them off send them away and thats it. I know it is either the electronics or the mechanical part. My question is has anyone went in a dead pump to see.

I have a 4000 lb camper on the back of my 3500 ram, and in a hard pull at 2200 rpm it has a miss. I have just replaced the IP around 4000 miles. Truck has 15 lb of FP at WOT, there are no codes, My mods I have a vanaken module, boast fooler, boast elbow and a exhaust brake, could this be a bad injector or is the IP going again?

Hi, I am in need of help with my truck. I just did the head gasket and had the head surfaced, put in arp head studs. Put the truck all back together and now it starts hard. It takes two good cranking sessions when it's cold(40 degrees) after sitting all night and even with the engine hot it still takes a good 15 second crank to fire. The truck was extremely hard to start after reassembly, it took a lot longer than normal to bleed the fuel lines than previous times. My grid heater is working and my wait to start light is working. So why is it starting hard? It used to never crank more than 2-5 seconds cold. I can't find the plugin for the IAT sensor after putting the head …

ok i have a problem with my 98.5 24v dodge 2500..... :banghead::banghead: right now i would love to set the truck on fire and roll it down a hill... but since i just joined here and would like to see if anyone can help me... so truck has been perfect since i replaced my first vp44 and lp other then some trans problems which was an easy fix and putting suspension parts on it to make it drive alittle better shes been no problem.... im use to getting into a diesel turning the key on waiting for the wts light (Wait to start) to come on then go off and then u crank... well i finnally got my buddy to plug in his smarty set my truck to a level 2 and then back to stock so i have …

Sorry if this is brought up a lot. I did some searching but came up with nothing. I just bought a 1999 2500 24valve cummins, 266,500 miles, Ext cab, long bed, 4x4, Auto. It was all stock except the owner before me put a Airdog 150 pump on it. Since I bought it, I have put 4" straight pipe, BHAF, and have done all fluid and filter changes.(engine oil, engine oil filter, tranny fluid/filter, fuel filter, water separator,) I got through 3/4 tank of diesel and hand calculated my mileage, and it only came out to 13.1 mpg. This is probably 60% highway and 40% in town driving. I have tried my hardest to take is easy on the throttle, but every now and then the pedal dose get away…

So I went on vacation this weekend and had to leave the truck at the airport. No way to plug it in. I have known for a while that the batteries were getting a little weak but like a :banghead: I figured I could squeeze one more trip out of them. When I got back last night it was a toasty -7* F in Fargo, ND. Batteries didn't have enough juice to crank her over. Had a guy give me a jump and we finally got it started after a couple of times worth of cranking a few seconds, let the batteries recharge, run the grids. Now the check engine light is on. Gonna go by a autozone or something and use a scanner. Ill post what I find. I got some new batteries today so I shouldn't have …

While servicing my truck I noticed a severe oil leak coming from what appears to be the Crank Shaft. If I were repairing the KDP how much more work would it be to replace the CS Seal? This is a first for me and help/ Information about the procedure will be appreciated. Is there a write up on this?

Well guys I got her going again!!!!!!!!!!!! It was just a dead Battery! Waiting on my BHAF to arrive soon then that will go in! The next will be a fuel pressure gauge, and a Raptor 100 with the big line kit and extra filter!!! Thanks guys for all your assistance in helping me with my truck!!!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In an ISO air filter test, ( iso duramax iso 5011 testing) They reference the average CFM of the test was 350 cfm. Isn't that a low CFM for a diesel air filter test?

Alright guys so I made the mistake of using a KN Air Filter for the last 4 months, and am currently waiting for a BHAF to come to the door . But before I do my switch is there a way to get the oil out of the turbo? It's not to bad since it's only been 4 months but you can still plainly see the oil in there it's not imbedded in the metal of the turbo yet Thank god!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok, so I decided to clean my MAP and IAT sensor today on the 99 24valve I just bought. There were no check engine lights, and it runs and drives good. I just figured it wouldn't hurt to clean them. This is the first time I have ever done this. I took out the MAP Sensor, it was pretty clean, but I did some work on it. Then I take out the IAT sensor, which is below the MAP at the bottom of the block??The two sensors look the same except for the electrical connections. I did some reading on other threads before I did this and everything I seen, the IAT has like a white plastic tube extruding from the sensor. The black is the MAP, and the tan was from the IAT sensor location?…

Is there a link with details and maybe pictures that explains how to adjust the TV Cable. I got the bands adjusted on the transmission in spec. but its still shifting at higher rpms then I would like. So I've heard of adjusting the TV Cable will help. Never done it before, so I'm looking for a little help. Thanks!!

Ok, my 01 will lug to the point it will almost die when starting off In first. When it lugs like that you can push in the clutch and it will get a burst of power and rev up some what. What the heck is going on there? I been running that way for a while. It runs fine in every way but when taking off from a stop. Cam sensor?