2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,279 topics in this forum
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l had dead 2 month old batteries in my 2001. Read through threads on dead batterieshere and found info on IOD fuse #12 in junction box.The shop manual said to disconnect both batteries, connect a amp meter between the ground terminal and ground wire - keeping it connected and wait for 3 minutes then check the fuses and relays. The only drain l had was threw the IOD fuse #12 in the junction box I had a 246 mamp drain threw it. Shop manual said should be less than 30. Used shop manual wiring diagram to narrow it down to lights common to that fuse. It was the glove box light. Disconnected it and the amp draw dropped to 1.64 mamps. :)
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My '01 truck is pretty much stock with the exception of the Superchip Cortex set on "performance tow". 4.10 gears, 31" tires, auto. I pull a trailer occasionally and travel in the Rockies, usually less that 8000#'s. I notice the egt's start creeping up to the 1100 degree mark or slightly higher unless I let off some on a long pull. I have read on here that 1100 is reaching the limit. I am old enough now that I don't drive it like I stole it, but do not want to damage anything because I plan on keeping this truck a long time. I am also hesitant to make any changes in the programmer settings because I am afraid I will screw something up. Are these temps normal? Am I causin…
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I need to replace my bummed ECM and got a good deal on a 2000 model. I have a 98.5. The seller, of course, tells me that it will work. After looking through the forums I hear both that it will and won't work. Does anyone have any first hand experience success or failure?!
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I'm finally picking up an HX35 off a 96', doing the HY to HX swap, and was wondering what RPM the HX starts to spool? My HY seems to start at around 1700 or sooner and I'm hoping the HX isn't going to be laggy with my setup.Thanks
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Ok, I did this 3 weeks ago so I am just finally getting around to doing my write up. I know people have concerns with the airdog/raptor issues, but hey, somebody has to see if they are fixed. I have no concerns about these pumps, as I have never had any problems getting warranty on customers raptors. Also, I have an electronic gauge as well as a quick release fitting for a mechanical gauge to check pressure whenever I need to.First things first here are the partsAirdog and hardwareHere is the sump kit by Bean's dieselFirst thing I did was drain the tank through the fuel filter housing drain into 5 gallon buckets and jumping out the lift pump wires to control the flow.Here…
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Dammit!I just went to NAPA to get new U joints and Center bearing. U joints are nice quality federal mogul made in usa & zerks included but the center bearing was crap! NAPA brand but made in china. wtf?? :mad:Ok I know more and more stuff is made in china, maybe ok for some applications but I'm not installing cheap china parts in my driveline.Any reccomendations for aftermarket quality parts purchases besides the dealer?Thanks
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Getting ready to purchase gauges.What is the typical factory boost pressure range? Trying to decide on a 10 - 30 psi guage or 10 - 50 psi.Also, I'm going to install an EGT guage as well. Were do most guys put the thermocouple probe? I'll probably drill a hole & tap 1/8 npt on the top of the exh manifold pre-turbo - that is right there before the flange where the manifold bolts up to the turbo. That's where I did it with great success in my isuzu NPR diesel.And for you guys who are going to warn me about metal drill/tap chips falling in and wrecking the turbo, don't worry as the best way is to drill and tap slowly while engine is idling. Thats right! Get up there a…
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So I finished rebuilding my truck the other day. Started right up and took it out a few times, ran and drove great. The last time however, I took a corner and accelerated and my gauges went nuts. The water in fuel, check engine, check gauges lights all came on and my oil pressure gauge also reads 0. I have no idea what's going on or why that happened? Ran the truck a little after the fact and it still runs and idles fine without any excessive noise so I don't think it really has no oil pressure. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Buddy has an 2000 2500 4X4, Edge Juice with Attitude, FASS lift pump, new VP some time agoRadio and Programmer do not turn on when turning on the truck. Happened after filling up at the station.:think:Has checked fuses under hood and door panel and wires look good. All other electrical seem to work right now(windows, locks, cig lighter, ect) and truck runsAny ideas?
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Just got back from a dodge dealer I went there to have my 2001 2500 high idle unlocked it is an automatic...the dealer first told me they could do it the put it in the shop... I leave and get a call from them saying that they couldn't unlock it beings it's an automatic and they claim they called Chrysler and they told them the option isn't available for the automatics....is this bs or true. Pretty sure I have seen it done before and if it can be done with a power chip why wouldn't it be possible with out one on the computer?
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Getting ready to address the kdp soon. At the same time I'm going to clean the radiator, degrease the engine & delete the puke bottle & add a fuel boss. Want to try and get all this done before it get's to cold outside.Questions: I've decided to just unbolt the pulley assy from the block instead of using the custom wrenches to take the fan apart. Is there a gasket between the pulley assy & block? Or can I put it back together with the high quality grey rtv stuff? Same goes for the timing cover. Can I just use grey rtv on the re-assy?I've done the kdp on my first gen years ago, and I recall it was pretty easy but I used a new gasket for the timing cover. A…
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Measuring AC voltage at the alternator. Getting approx. .01 to .02 volts. Sometimes it will spike up to .05 volts AC. Is the alternator diode going out? I'm occasionally getting the hunt at 45-50mph. When the grids cycle, the AC volts are in a pretty good swing, too. But obviously they are not cycling at that speed anyways. Just wondering what your guys' thoughts were to it, as I sure hope its not the TC!
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Does any one know the size of the 2 bottom boots on the inter cooler? Best I can tell they are 3.5" X 3" 45* boots. Please correct me if I am wrong.
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I am having some troubles since rebuilding my engine and putting it back together. I'm not sure if the problem is caused by the lift pump, just not being primed, or the ECM. I put a new ECM in my truck do to the fact that my old one had a faulty wait to start light and thought maybe it was messing with the lift pump. I also tried priming it by bumping the starter and my pump does not run for the 20 or so seconds it's supposed to, and doesn't always run at all? It will crank but haven't got it to fire or start. Could this be from the lift pump being junk? The ECM not being flashed for my truck? Or just simply isn't primed yet? Any help is appreciated, thanks!
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I'm still pretty new on this site so forgive me if this is repetitive. I have seen many discussion on the web on this topic and I found this report easy for my simple mind to understand. I thought I would share. http://www.jatonkam35s.com/DeuceTechnicalManuals/Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf
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(Torque till you see stars) I've read ALL the related threads and I've tried everything I can think of to get 3 fuel lines to seal at the connector tube joint. Connector tubes got new o-rings lubed with engine oil and pressed in by hand until "click" indicating fully seated past o-ring. Inspected the compression ends of the fuel lines and connector tubes and no signs of damage or over tightening. I lightly polished the fuel line ends with scotchbrite pad. Hand tightened all lines to ensure proper alignment and then bleed the system of air. After bleeding torqued to 28 ft/lb and have small weeping leak at 1, 3 & 4 (go figure, all the connections used for bleed…
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Time to change out the fluid before our heavy fall towing season. This trans was rebuild 3 years ago, and had the oil fill plug moved up on the case for overfilling capability. Dodge dealer installed the trans for me (they didn't rebuild it, just r and r'd it). I assumed they used the correct fluid at the time. This trans still has the 1.25 input shaft, so probably has the composite syncro rings, not the brass. Does the composite rings demand Chryslers spec oil? I've read a bazillion posts with many recipes for various blends of engine oil, synthetic trans fluid, ATF, and straight syncro …
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I've had my truck for 6 years now and towed tons with it very reliably. I'm not chasing big hp, just reliable, usable, and SAFE hp. I've got some ideas but would like to hear from folks who know more than me.Thanks for any and all advice.
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Well guys,PureFlow sent me a upgraded replacement for my third failed Raptor 100, and before someone asks yes I did have to pay some extra. For me its worth it as hopefully now I have a reliable truck. The last two raptors died on the road and I had to limp the truck home, and one time it cost me a VP-44. Now I have a newly overhauled VP which runs better than any that I have had before and want to keep it that way. That said, just got the AD ll in and running and cannot believe the difference! The old raptor-100 did fine and held a good 21 psi or so but it did not respond like this one does. That said, PF told me that the pump that I have on the truck now is the same on…
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