2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Anyone know what kind of o ring is in the return T? I tightened it up and it looks like part of a rubber o ring comming through where the line goes in. Any other places other than dealer. Dont have one near me and im hosing down the undercarrige with 4.59 diesel. Any other ideas on a fix or replacement?

OK I am not a transmission mechanic. I was thinking of putting a TC lock up switch on my 2001 Dodge 47e ? trans to aid in down hill retard. Also thinking about moving an ex brake from my older dodge. Question: If the tc is in lock up, isn't it locked in all gears. Will it lock in 2nd if the speed is kept with in the 2nd gear range? 22 to 35mph? Also heard of hooking switch with a 33ohm, 1/2 watt resistor and leaving the relay in tact for near normal operation except hills. Input would really be appreciated.

I installed a raptor on my 2001. I know lots of people say to add a suction filter. BUT! If there is already a filter sock on the pickup in the tank, WHY! another screen. Dodge didn't have an additional filter before the Carter.

Ok so i was in an accident about 4 months ago and the truck is being totaled by other partys insurance. Ive only had it a year and i havent made a big dent in the loan so after its paid off i wont have much left to play with so i am gona be looking for a new truck. I liked having the 6spd. I dont want to go to low on year. Wana avoid the 53 block and KDP problem. I had great mpg on my truck so wana stick with same options. I am willing to hear some advise and opinions. My question is is a 5 spd better than the 6spd. I know that the 6 spd have the Dana 80. Anyways what shall i get?? Im currently thinking about this one. http://www.canyonstateauto.com/inventory/view/56186…

So I think I am burning oil from the turbo... I am going through about a quart every 600-700 miles. I am not leaking anything on the ground except a few drops here and there. I have checked my blowby while the engine is cold right after start-up, and after being on the freeway for a couple hours. Either way, i have hardly any blowby, a puff every now and then. The only other thing I could think of is maybe the seals in the turbo are shot. It is the stock turbo, never been touched and it has 193,xxx miles on it. The head was rebuilt last summer so I dont think it could be in there. Any ideas? thanks everyone!

hey guys been a while and i need some more help, today i noticed a good amount of tranny fluid under my truck after the morning commute, i de-greased, rinsed and inspected and it looks like its coming from the tranny cooler lines (the "isolater blocks" had moved allowing the hard lines to rub for who knows how long) i am ordering the "DieselManor Generation 2 Cooler Line for 1994-2002 Dodge RAM Cummins" with the port for trans temp guage but i cant find the rest of the lines on the web! any ideas? dont want to go to the dealership." also when i turn on my a/c i get a plesant aroma of anti freeze with the occasional puff of white smoke from the vents. heater core going b…

ok so I've been having these not starting when hot issues...as I've posted recently...Mike says put in gauge.... I get the electric installed with my triple pillar pod setup (glowshift)I'm anal and hate the way the wiring is coming out but still I push.Going to do the snubber from Geno's, pull off the banjo (filter up canister setup on mine)...I screw in the snubber, then tread the sender (tef. taped)... wire and ground.Gauges all come up (no other probes hooked yet) bump starter to bring up LP....it cycles (no pressure...nothing)try more,,,, still truck wont start either (several tries) nothing. I didnt bleed anything yet (the darkness came too fast) I did pop the fi…

Would there be any advantage to running a separate heavy ground cable from the PCM to the negative battery post? Would it help/ possibly save the PCM in the event of any future electronic abnormalities?Second; How about an external voltage regulator using a mechanical type regulator. I say mechanical type because if it starts acting up all you need do usually, is emery cloth the contact points. It is also has a feature of being able to adjust the voltage simply by adjusting the spring screw.Third, is it possible that the ECM Could avoid future damage if it did not have to run the lift pump and/or the AD Raptor relay? Asking because I would use an oil pressure switch that…

Hello everyone! I have a 2002 ram2500 with 6spd in it, I replaced the clutch and slave cylinder about 24,000 miles ago. It's hard to shift into any gear from a dead stop, it shifts fine when I'm moving. Is this signs of the clutch master cylinder going out? I have no leaks anywhere and the reservoir is full. If it is the clutch master cylinder that needs to be replaced can I just replace that and not the slave? I'm a little tight on money right now and trying to save as much as I can. Thanks for any helpP.S. I wanted to add the reason I replaced the slave cylinder, I was driving home from work one day and in the midle of shifts it would not go into any gear I was …

Went out to the the truck tonite and noticed the driveway had some wetness on the ground and noticed a pretty good drip coming from my truck. I thought oh great what now. Got to looking and it was anti freeze dripping from the water pump. My first thought was great probably going to have to pull the radiator, shroud, front bumper,rear bumper, starter, tranny, and about 800 other things just to put fix the water pump. I was sure I was going to need a special dealer only tool also. Its not just a Dodge thing but seems like its always something, the manufacturers or engineers always make everything so difficult and you to have hands the size of an elf to be able to get to t…

I put in a tc lockup switch last night and followed directions from TST. However, after it was all done I tried it out and of course didn't work. My truck is a 99 model. I checked the switch and all the wiring and it seems to be okay. Anyone know what I did wrong or what I can do to fix it?

I have recently noticed a drop in boost pressure. so today I put some air pressure to the waste gate and only notice maybe 1/8" travel in the actuator arm. I am worried it is stuck in a slightly open position. Can i just pull the compressor side of the turbo and not remove the entire piece?

:think:Okay, so ever since I've had the whole shpiel with the truck last time running funny, it seems it still will throw a couple codes.Going in the mountains this weekend, so I decided I would run a code reader on it see if it is still running good. Well, turns out it threw a P0234 code 2x. Checked the ECM and PCM as well. Dunno if these trucks allow it or not, but the reader said unable to communicate with the ECM.The PCM said there was companion code set.Now, I dunno if anything serious is occuring or not, but I would sure like to figure it out. I definitely would hate the idea of being broke down in the MIDDLE OF NOWHERE!I have suffered from lower fuel mileage rating…

So I was just thinking about exhaust brakes and real Jake brakes for our 5.9. It's a shame no one makes a real Jake for our trucks. The exhaust brake is a great option but a bit of an issue with us owners with autos. So I was just thinking about the 3 cylinder idle. What if a person could engage the 3 cylinder after releasing the accelerator peddle? Would it be a hybrid Jake/Exhaust brake? Would it work? Would it brake or bend things?Thoughts?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does anyone know what the VP44 requires in Gallons Per Hour fuel flow on a stock engine? Doing a search gives conflicting info with nothing available from Bosch.Filters are rated in flow amounts per hour, not the psi.Mike, you said 45 GPH is enough, forgive me for beginning to wonder about all this, but, even our stock filter on the engine may not be rated for enough flow. Look at the restrictive banjo fuel system. It wouldn't be the first time I could be wrong on something like this, But why isn't this information available on a Google search from Bosch?Some guys are saying we need to increase the size of the return line too.

After removing the stock air box and K&N filter:nono: and installing the BHAF, I decided to take a look at the turbo. It does not look damaged but it is filthy. At the risk of sounding stupid, what would be the best thing to clean it with? Or would it be best to just leave it alone? Remember I am new to the diesel world! Just don't want to make any costly mistakes or slack on maintenance.

Hey everyone, I just bought my first CTD. It is a 2001 2500 x-cab, long bed 4x4. Has a 4" BDS suspension lift, and air ride. 145k miles. I am loving it so far. I have bought and installed a BHAF already, but other than that it is all bone stock. This is my first diesel so I will probably be posting lots of questions on here. I will be driving this truck daily and eventually will be towing a 5th wheel camper with it. I would like some input on what fuel system setup, and other mods would be the best for what I intend on using it for. Tha…

Since I kept seeing a on/off P0216 that would come and go, I came across a great deal on a new VP-44 rebuild. Do I have to have my codes cleared or will they clear up on their own? If I dont clear the codes, will my truck not operate as normal??BYW, there is an excellent Youtube guide on how to remove and install a VP-44 pump.

Ok so i did the vent relocation mod shortly after i got my truck a couple of years ago, and cleaned the mess out of the radiator. Where the tube exits is just above the front diff/ujoint. It pushes enough oil out of the pipe to completely drench my u joint and drip on the ground. I have seen some videos and it seems this is excessive. :think:I also have a headgasket leaking externally so i figured no need to just go part way. I am saving for a overhaul now. Just wanted to double check the obvious. :banghead:

I have recently bought my first Dodge Cummins, I have been a ford guy prior and am retiring my 1993 7.3L F350 with 330k miles on it. Anyway my pickup is a '02 4X4 5-Speed, all was well for the first week or so that I owned it then it started to the this surging thing, it usually surges between 1500-1900rpm, under load, like accelerating or going up a hill, sometime way worse than other times. [*]I don't show any error codes with the ignition switch way of looking [*]I have reset the APPS [*]I have cleaned my grounds [*]Happens while both while using cruise control and not using cruise control Seems like a Timbo APPS has fixed things similar to t…