2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Well if Cummins cant fix it it's doomed to fall of a clif. I took truck to cummins to let them try. Well if I had stock injectors he said they could search for leaks by pressure the system. And there stock injectors are about 500.00 each, thats what he said,I dont know. They did the usual routine stuff, hook up scanner and the usual stuff came up NOTHING. They seemed sure that the crossover tubes where leaking and one may have been. It runs a little diff. but miss is still there. Here is where I am at,new DDP 50 HP injectors, ECM,Apps,crossover tubes, cam sensor, VP Blue Chip, Head rebuilt, Starter, Alternator, water pump, thermostat & sensor, new airdog 150 with quic…

Upgrading your diesel. In order to upgrade your diesel from stock, you should have a baseline of readings in order to know what has changed. Also, if you do multiple upgrades at one time and something goes wrong, you will not know which upgrade caused the problem or error code. In order to know what is happening to the engine, you should have at the minimum compliment of aftermarket gauges. At the minimum for Dodges, you need a fuel pressure gauge, boost gauge, and EGT gauge. Those with automatic transmissions should also have a transmission temperature gauge. With these gauges and a stock engine you will proceed to gather information as to how well the engine…

Ok guess I am just stupid. Repacing my radiator and got it out without having to remove the fan clutch.But tried and couldn't budge it. Searched this site and other places on how to remove it. Some places say there are holes in pulley mine does not. Tried using a rubber belt ratchet thing to hold pulley. Didn't work. Found this pic of tools to use but not sure what that 71 mm wrench holds. The 36 goes on nut holding fan clutch but where does 71 mm wrench go to ????Thanks Rob

So yesterday I was driving in winter like conditions, busted through two snow drifts, shortly after that my dash went dead except the tach. 'No bus' was displayed in the odometer and my over head consol had 'CCd'. I was able to get to a small town only about 70 miles from home before the batteries gave out. I just put on an ecm and pcm from a 99 manual, so I am not sure if the ecm gave out or if it might be an electrical issue? I tried to read the codes with my Smarty but it seems that it can not find the ecm, it just keeps telling me to turn the key off then turn the key on. I do have a down load on the Smarty so I am also wondering if the ecm is toast is there any …

Is it pretty common for these trucks to not come equipped with overdrive?

My lights are on and it pulses like a bad rotor.Can anyone tell me what to check.I had all this problem before i replaced the wheelbearings,rotors and ball-u-joints.When i am light on them around 30mph it seems ok, hit them hard the pedal pulses.I only have a smarty to check codes so i cant get into the abs computer.

I bought this truck a couple of weeks ago with the owner telling me that he thought it needed a new VP44. The one in it was rebuilt just over a year ago. I've been working on some of its other problems and trying to figure out if it is in fact the injection pump that is causing the trucks problems. Basically the truck will sometimes start missing and farting. Sometimes it is just a minor little blip and sometimes it is bad enough that it will die at idle. It happens at all RPM ranges but is definetly worse when there is no throttle applied. Some days it does this right off the bat and other you can drive for 30 miles without any problems. When I got the truck it had codes…

I know my VP44 is on the way out, but I was wondering if installing an airdogII now would hurt anything. I think I'll go with the AirdogII because I like the idea of the adjustable regulator. Does FASS offer anything that's adjustable? I'm still hoping the vp44 makes it to spring.

I saw this but opted for Ubuntu instead of Vista on my laptop. Am in the OS learning curve. http://www.obd-2.com/#download There is lots of linux related conversation also. Just wondering what others here have done. This looks interesting also. http://www.scantool.net/software/scanxl-std.html

I'm stock except for the exhaust. I don't tow very much... but when I do, we put 600 miles on in a day. I don't know how heavy the 28' Tahoe TranSport is but I found one year listed as 7000 dry weight / GVW of near 10,000 (a second listed GVW of 12,000). Truck (see signature) has Tow Package which includes a transmission cooler. I haven't been able to add guages yet. Note: I've discovered 4.10 is the wrong gear ratio with stock tire sizes but I own the truck now. As I posted previously, I pretty much have to use OD on flat & downhill, kick the OD out & drop speed if the truck is unhappy on a grade (no issues except loss of cruising speed). I'd like to bum…

what do uguys recommend for fuel additives?I see some of you use 2 cycle for its lubricating value but what about for the cold winter months to prevent gelling......all of them pretty much the same?I think they use a product called 911 at my work.Oh....and what do u think of stanadyne additives?

There was a write up on it and cant fine it to save my life. Anyone know size and pitch? Need to clean block --- Update to the previous post... I got it, cummins ordered me one, 31.00

Hey guys - replaced my injectors 1x with ISX holding my hand (where's the "flower" icon ) anyway Thinking of getting rid of my RV275's and going to +75 => +100HP ...... together with hx35/hx40 hybrid. That with my methanol/water kit should bring right at 275->425 HP which is as far I as think I should go without new headstuds/bigger turbo. So thinking a couple things. (1) What you think between full injector replacement or just nozzles ?? (2) Think of these http://www.cumminsperformanceparts.com/cpp-injectors.html + 100HP and http://www.dieselautopower.com/product_p/35-fslash-40%20turbo%20budget.htm or something else in some price point ? I haven';t …

I know this is a dead horse but i need input from anyone that has experience. My current setup is HX35/ht3b, Edge juice (HOT) WAM, JL Machining 240hp injectors, Haisley head gasket with fire rings, ARP studs, 6 spd, SBC 3600 DD , 3.54 ratio. I think I have enough supporting mods for everything I have but I know the JL's are way to big for towing. I can easily stab 1500 in the back in about 3 seconds when I get on the juice. I have towed with this setup some but really have to be on top of it. I been there and done that and now I just want "usability" so I am fixin to order some new injectors from Jacob(diesel auto power) he seems to have some good prices. I have decide…

well..the truck is grid heater deleted...a FBD grid heater delete was installed.....and a black power coated ats arc flow intake.....i got a block heater and a high/3cyl. box ..so no problems.i like it so far.:thumbup2::thumbup2::thumbup2::thumbup2:

I have read so much I dont know what to belive. It sounds posable that I may have a weak bolt that is not pulling it down right. I checked them all the best I could. So here is what I torqed them to 50 first time around then 77 and rechecked 77 again, then 90 degree.What do you think?

On my 01 3500.I removed the pitman arm.Then pull out the first seal,It is just pressed in by hand no tools needed.Then dig the next seal out with a small screw driver.Now remove the snapring.Now put the nut and washer back on.Start the truck put a oil catch pan under truck move the wheel back-n forth fast a few times.Shut off truck.The seal and washer will be forced out but will not drop to the ground because you put the nut back on.Now you have all the parts in order that came out.Grease up the new seals and shaft install new seals.

How labor intense would it be if it could be done?

Well gang... I know a bunch of you have either built your own high idle mod or purchased one through Prowelder or maybe another source. But I know a few of you have had some diagnostic problems in building or have had issues after installing. Well this little write up should walk you through most of it ad figure out what is going on. Ok let get down to tools... You'll need a DVM (Digital Volt Meter) set on ohms. Now lets start with the ECT fooler... Now with the female plug which is the plug that hooks to the ECM we want to measure the ohms at this plug with the fooler in the ON position. It should read 3.3K ohms. If its open check the other…

I love the way a stick shift pulls but my 98 has the 47re. It was rebuilt just before I got it with supposedly heavy duty parts from a shop in Phoenix. I called the shop with my serial number and they said it was there heaviest duty tranny available. Now to my problem,I hate how this thing feels soft or mushy between lockup. Sometimes if I slow down almost to a stop but not quite, it will stay in second and just wind up really high without really gaining speed. Really anytime the convertor isnt locked it just feels like im not putting the power to the ground. Is this just the nature of the beast or will a good tripple disk TQ fix this? I drove my buddies 04 Dmax the other…