2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

So I crawled under my 99 4x4 looking at taking my exhaust off to make way for my new 4inch straight pipe and noticed at the back of the transmission where the transfer case bolts up is wet. I’m assuming the rear seal on the tranny. Should this be fixable by dropping the transfer case?

so the clutch went out back in jan. finnaly got it replaced two days ago....did the work myself:banghead: that sucked no concrette driveway.....all grass and gravel.....hopefully it will b fine....thanks to michael and the great info found here the bottle jack for spreading the frame rails came in very handy....now looking to swap my axel (dually) for a single rear ....then some power mods ....open for suggestions from anyone on mods

I have a "minor" issue but figure I had better ask now before it gets worse. While travelling at very slow speeds through my neighborhood at the point where the trany shifts from 1st to 2nd it tends to jump back and forth from 1st to 2nd to 1st, and so on. Simply advancing or reducing the RPMs makes it quit. Any ideas? Tanks

So, I'll be getting my truck back from the shop next week with a non-53 block engine and a stock rebuilt transmission. I've heard of people who claim they've replaced their trany within a year of new. What are the facts? How long does a rebuild last and what precautions can I take to extend the life? Thanks

So, I finally got my truck back from the shop today. Even though I saved a bunch of money by using my son-in-law's dad's shop, I have some issues. I'll start with a question about the transmission lines that go to the heat exchanger. The guys at the shop crossed the lines and now they are touching. My question is whether it's ok to use anti-chafe tape or do I need to re-route them or is this not an issue and I should just ignore it? ThanksAlso, I have a...vibration or shake that is different than the old engine. It's worse in neutral than in gear. Other than that it runs great. Any input is welcomed. Thanks

Last weekend I replaced the crankshaft seal on my front cover as well as installing a wear sleeve. I followed the procedures that were on the Thoroughbred Diesel YouTube Channel. I used the wear sleeve installation tool and the crank seal installation tool. Used Permatex to seal the front cover after installation. I've started to notice fresh oil on my sway bar and steering components after driving. The bottom front bolts of the oil pan had small amounts of oil on them as well. I can't seem to tell if the leak is coming from the oil pan and that the gasket needs to be replaced or if its coming from somewhere else. The tappet cover looks good from what I can see and I reto…

(Torque till you see stars) I've read ALL the related threads and I've tried everything I can think of to get 3 fuel lines to seal at the connector tube joint. Connector tubes got new o-rings lubed with engine oil and pressed in by hand until "click" indicating fully seated past o-ring. Inspected the compression ends of the fuel lines and connector tubes and no signs of damage or over tightening. I lightly polished the fuel line ends with scotchbrite pad. Hand tightened all lines to ensure proper alignment and then bleed the system of air. After bleeding torqued to 28 ft/lb and have small weeping leak at 1, 3 & 4 (go figure, all the connections used for bleed…

Before I lay down big bucks for a FASS or Airdog I decided to give the Herko fuel lift pump a try. 1998.5 Ram 2500 Cummins 5.9L 24V. The Herko pump Installed pretty easily. I had to grind one corner off the mounting plate on the pump to make it fit. My stock location is left rear of engine block. My Herko pump did not come with the 90 degree adaptor for the fuel line from tank hook up. It is not needed. I was able to clip my stock fuel line on to it no problem. The rest of the details and psi readings are here in the video. Yep a FASS or Airdog is likely in my future. We'll see how this Made In China Herko pump holds up. I can monitor it with my gauge. I will carry …

I just ordered 3 glow shift 7 color series pillar guages: fuel pressure, boost, and pyrometer, along with the triple pillar pod. I was wondering about how long of a job that might be.

hello everyone this is my first post lots of great info here! i have read thru much of the site but can't figure this truck out i have an 02 6 speed with codes p0237 and p0112 i have gone thru the wiring replaced the map twice first new one was bad out of the box. not funky readings on anything i have done all the testing procedures and can't find anything off. i clear the codes and they instantly come back as soon as i start the truck i completely removed my edge box and truck ran worse extremely doggy with it on the truck at highest setting the truck is still a dog but driveable i cleaned all grounds tried an apps reset with no luck checked and triple checked all connec…

So after hauling home a new 5th wheel project today, I noticed that my new transmission gauge seemed inop. I tore down the dash and found the tap splice I used may have had an intermittent connection ( I hate those things) so I switched out a butt connector and that seemed to fix it. As I was there putting the dash back together, I figured I'd check the trouble codes for fun. It spit out the following: P0622 P0743 P1693 P1765 Now I had noticed wayyy back in fall that the trans had shifted in and out of OD on the highway a few times on a few separate days but quit. I have since then installed a lockup switch on the dash. Would the lockup switch cause the co…

Any one had these 4 trouble codes at the same time? Truck will not start. I have not had time to look the truck over yet. so i don't know battery voltage yet or if i have any lose or broken wires, plan on looking it over this afternoon when it warms up a little. Thanks for the help p0382 p0380 p0215 p1689

A few weeks ago, actually the day after that I had my flash done for high idle , I was going to town and experienced dead pedal for about 10 seconds and it threw a P0237 MAP Sensor Voltage Too Low code and tripped the engine light. This morning on my way to town I once again got hit twice with it lasting about the same amount of time, maybe a bit longer the second time. All three times were into a hill and I want to note that all times this happened was on a relatively cold engine.This morning it never tripped the engine light and I checked and I have no codes at all. First time I thought maybe it was map sensor just from where I had unhooked my programmer for getttin…

I am having an issue with my truck not wanting to start when it is cold out. symptoms are below say 40-50 degrees the fuel pump will not come on, I get a CAD communications error, I have no gauges, no wait to start light, and I do not hear any relays click when I turn on the key. I have not seen any codes using the key trick. now here is the fun part. If I plug the truck in for a few hours it will start just fine and everything works properly. Truck has new batteries, and the connections are tight. Should I be chasing grounds with these symptoms, or should I be looking for a cold solder in the ECU, or am I just chasing my tail without diagnostic equipment to see what …

MM suggested I post up after speaking with him on the telephone yesterday afternoon. this all started after some cold weather here. leaving work one day and just died on me a few times, hard to start and then finally nothing. here goes working on a 1999 2500 5.9 l . it is hi-line w/auto transmission. key fobs never worked for me. trouble is it is very very hard to start. finally got it to run yesterday, let it run for about 5 minutes and turned it off. it didn’t want to start again. then when turning the key to start and run position, no lift pump noise. i waited 30 minutes and cycled the key again and heard the lift pump running. …

Please Help!! I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 2500. It has a 5.9 Cummins Turbo Diesel engine. The problem occurs when engine is cold. I thought it was only in winter like now. But it also happens in summer just not half as bad. when engine is first started cold I get white smoke out of exhaust and it stumbles for about a minute in summer. And if left unplugged (engine block heater) in winter it will smoke bad and stumble for like 5minutes!! Then when it warms up enough to drive it wont go above like 20 30 maybe 40mph for like 2miles or more. Seems like until engine reaches a certain temp.?? Anyway then finally everything will kick in and truck will run and drive great!! I was tol…

Hey ya'll,i am back with an update.:banghead: So after a year of having no symptoms since 1/28/11, i am having symptoms again. Not really sure what is going on. I have not gone thru any of the routine troubleshooting steps just yet. I am back for some more schooling!!!! So now the situation is that i am having dead pedal above 70 MPH. I can punch the gas on the highway, tranny goes thru its automatic gear shifts, than if i try to accelerate above 70, nothing. --- Update to the previous post... please read other thread!

Hello all, I am new to this site and wanted to kick something around maybe get some feedback and troubleshooting help. When i would turn on the truck, i would usually let it idle for awhile. I would put it in “D”, push on the gas, the truck would start to travel, than it will suddenly get the case of the "dead pedal" and then kick into gear. This started in a sporadic fashion. It then led to a daily ritual to get to work having to rev-up the engine in order for the truck to move. I have briefly explained below how I got to this point. The beginning of this story is as follows: I initially replaced the fuel lift pump when I first got the signs of white smoke c…

P1765 Transmission relay open or shorted. So I remember that the Previous owner told me about a Torque converter Lock-up switch. He said that you could use it to lock the converter in second gear while pulling a grade. So I assume that the Jumper wire has something to do with that? Mopar1973man told me about a Mystery switch that someone did, and used an old High Beam floor switch but I can't find that article. If I'm going to have to suffer the effects of the jumper then I should reap the benefits. If someone has a link to the rewire please share it with me. Thanks Michael

I am relatively new to the forum but have heard of Moparman and used his wiring maps for a while. They are very useful. Very good job. My throttle surging issues are caused by varying voltages to, and subsequently from, the APPS. I have the same issues with the alternator and/or PCM disconnected. The issues are as follows: -Truck starts right up but idles erratically -engine idles fine with ECM data lines disconnected from VP44 (wires removed from connector) -engine idles fine with APPS disconnected (no fluctuations in incoming voltages) -40 HZ (or thereabouts) "signal" in power and ground with and without alternator (oscilloscope screenshots ava…