2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

There is a lot of misinformation out there about oils, specifically oils marketed as "synthetic." I'd like to clear the air a bit and explain some of the types of oils, how they differ in production processes, and how they differ in performance characteristics. This will not only give you factual information that is helpful for understanding all oils currently on the market, but will also explain in detail how a Group IV PAO product like AMSOIL will yield a higher degree of protection and performance, especially in modern and modified turbo diesel engines. Thank you for reading. -Chuck Base Oil Categories The American Petroleum Institute (API) develop…

Some interesting stuff on milage for diesels http://cumminsengines.com/assets/pdf/MPG_Secrets_Whitepaper.pdf

Go to this site, and sign up for free diesel books http://www.myholsetturbo.com/

Well am I really surprised! No.Ok now I will tell you.I wrote email to chevron company asking their opinion on adding two cycle oil to my truck for lubrication.The response was: In our opinion never add oil to diesel fuel to lubricate your injecion pump!Use injector cleaner!What! injector cleaner in my fuel! I don't think so!Well I guess they have idiots working everywhere:banghead:

Got some questions about what my truck is doing over the past six month it has been to five different states and I have put on about twenty five thousand miles right around 270,000 ish only about half the time I was pulling a loaded 16ft enclosed trailer weight aprox 6000 so nothing to strenuous but over the past six month I have been noticing more of a buring oil smell in the cab its been using more oil and the biggest two concerns are when its at operating temperature 210ish my blowby tube is steaming and it drips a black cool very thin liquid about one drip every 10 to 15 seconds I have asked around and we came up with fuel and engine oil but why its cool to the touch …

Okay! as I was taking my nap today ( Yeah you will get to that point one day ) I was thinking about my post on the fender repair.One of the main things is because the fender is made of such cheap plastic -- I know most things seem to be that way now --- there is something that could be used to give more strength to the inside of a break.GOOP! Yup GOOP. If you haven't heard of it go buy a tube and make some expeirement with it.Example! A freind has a new nissan cube and he wanted to stick a GPS unit to his dash because the item that came with it would not stick to the plastic on his dash.So I mentioned GOOP and we got some. Man that stuff sticks to anything. I use it to a…

OK, so I have my ideas about what this might be. Anxious to hear your thoughts.A few times now I have turned the key to start the truck and let go before the engine catches. So, I just twist the key for too short a time and the engine doesn't catch. Then I try again and it will crank and crank and now start for almost exactly an hour. Then it starts right up.There is an aftermarket alarm on the truck and I have no remote. Not sure if it ever had one. I cannot smell fuel in the tail pipe while cranking; so, no fuel is being delivered. When it does start, I will fire right up with just a small puff of black smoke at the tailpipe. So I don't think there is a ton of fuel flow…

I read that using the block heater costs about $1.50 a day.I plug mine in all winter here and never notice any change on my bill. Guess that's cuz we have cheap rates, and man I am thankfull for that

i need to install a fuel pressure gauge when my truck s running again. I have seen alot of them on the internet with price varying alot. which is the best to have, mechanical or electric? or is there any differance in the performance of either? I do like the one that mopar has with the green range on it but can't seem to find that gauge anywhere. I can hook up either i just want to do it once and not twice. any help is appreciated.

I have been looking around at all the million ways you can do this and I came up with another way that seems pretty spiffy. Here's what I have come up with. First off, in the cab you need 3 single pole single throw switches, which are the simplest form of a switch you can get. Here is a pic of one. You install all of those, and hook one side of each switch to a good ground inside the cab. Now run the other side of each switch all outside into the engine bay. One switch will fool the coolant, one switch will turn on high idle, and one will turn on 3 cyl idle. The positive side of each relay is "always on" positive, so you can jumper from one relay …

Ok I got new ecm and power is back and pulls great, but it still has a miss at idle, I dont know if it has miss a cruise speed or not but I do know if you put a bypass box on it it runs just fine. So where to look? I am thinking wire harness?Is wire harness two peace or single harness, in other words am I dealing with a night mare to do my self?

Alright, kinda wish I would have taken more pictures, but I was hot and ready to get it back on the road... So here is what I got, perhaps this will help someone looking to replace their own. First things first. Go out and take a look at your Dana 80. Now, I don't have a photo of the other type for comparison, but there are actually two different Dana 80's in the 2001 and 2002 model year. This is important to get the proper seal. For my axle, in a 2001.5 Ram 3500 quad cab 2wd diesel 6 speed, it has the non flanged yoke and the double stepped down pinion shaft seal. Part number is 5015618AB from Dodge... Now the other seal (for the flanged yoke) is 5073944AA…

I had someone ask me to make a simplified version of Mike's high idle switches schematic. I know they can be a little confusing for those who don't do much electrical so I tried to make it as easy as possible. This first picture shows how the switch works. It is very important to understand this first, by understanding it, you will know how all the rest has to work. All of the drawings of the switches are always in the same direction, so they all directly relate to the top of the picture. This switch works by having 2 central contacts that close with the top or bottom contact. Sorry about drawing it on paper, I know it's kinda cheap but paint wasn't …

Wish me luck.... I have yanked a starter before, to replace my CPS on my old 99...So I know what thats all about but opening it up is gonna be something new... doesnt seem that hard...I got the new contacts and plunger in the mail today, have poured over threads about it, and it doesnt seem that hard. Starter had been been clicking a few times here in the last month, off and on..and yesterday the starter hung on me for a second...truck clicked, then I tried again, she fired and the starter stayed on...shut it down and the starter stayed on...quickly started it again and the starter shut off...no damage to the starter it all happened within about a 20 second window...but I…

OK I've put a Timbo APPS on and a noise isolator. That took care of the check engine code, however, it is still turning over a while before it wants to fire. Sometimes I have to crank it 2 or 3 times for about 3-4 seconds each time before she fires. I don't have anymore codes going off. I'm thinking that it is losing its prime of fuel. Could the airdog 150 be causing this? Before the sensor went bad it was starting fine, suggestions??

my power steering has been working when it wants to! sometimes good other times not so good! yesterday it started pouring fluid out of the bottom seal on the gearbox.do you guys think i should reseal it or replace the gearbox?

My front crank seal leaks like crazy. I'm looking to replace it again and this time use the Timken part to fix the wear spots in the crank, Does anyone have any good stories about this or any other way to keep it from leaking? Thanks!

Ok does removing the silencer ring do anything other then make more noise?Are there any facts posted anywhere about it?

Well today I had made a stop at the local fast food place for lunch...a mistake I guess. I came out and started the truck and she idled for a couple minutes..gave a shudder and shut down..no re start. Will crank but no start. I replaced the transfer pump w/fass a year ago. Acts like she's not getting fuel. What is in the tank on these? just a fuel gauge and fuel pick up? The transfer pump is running but I am wondering about the "draw straw" that I have heard about. Do they go bad, break off, What should my next step be? Thanks in advance. Randy

Does this look like a stock intercooler?I read stock ones have plastic ends and I don't know just curious