2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Guys i am in need of some insight. I have a 1999 24v cummins. This truck has been a headache to say the least but i am at a standing point. This is what has been replaced in the last 6 months and has been at 4 different shops including a chysler dealer. They have all given up but i am not ready too. The truck will only run when the c3 plug on the PCM is unplugged. This is the plug nearest the passenger side fender. This is what has been replaced IP Liftpump- stock replacement PCM- has been flashed to match VIN at chyrsler dealer engine harness has been replaced with one out of a running truck with same year and details( 4x4, auto )…

just purchased 1999 dodge 2500 24v ....the truck will start up in the morning but after driving a few miles won't start after turning it off.....belonged to my brother in law it was parked for that reason....i replaced fuel filter both batteries and lift pump behind the fuel filter housing....still nothing....i hit it with a sniff of ether and fired right up.....any help would be greatly appreciated

Ok so I put a new vp44 injection pump on the truck thinking that was the problem. But it wasn't I turned the truck over and over and wouldnt crank. I unplugged the rear plug on the pump and straight wired the pump and cranked right up. Then I checked the plug pin # 6 and 7 gets 12 volts on the on position and 10 on the starting position. Pin # 5 doesn't have any voltage so it's not that. Anyone know what or why the electronics won't work and allow the truck to crank? Thanks.

Have trouble getting my old 2001 Cummins work truck to run. Truck ran great but was leaking fuel from drain plug on side of the fuel filter housing, so i changed it out. Truck was hard to start, then would run, but would die if i put it in gear. Did this acouple of times, then bucked and saw big cloud of grey smoke come out of tail pipe. Now truck is in what seems to be limp mode( iknow these older trucks dont have them) but truck will not go over 2000 rpm. Theres no more smoke at all, just has no power ,Thought maybe i had air in the fuel lines so ive tried first with the lift pump valve , and then cracked the injector lines, still nothing has changed. Totally stumped.

Just like the title says... the truck won't shift out of 1st at any throttle position unless I take my foot completely off the throttle, then get back on it. Once it's out of 1st and past ~28mph, it shifts 2-3 and 3-4 completely normally. It will try to kick down into 1 if I go WOT/WFO under about 45mph. And if I floor it at low speed, it'll hold 1st all the way to redline, and won't shift. Is this a governor issue? I replaced the solenoid and sensor back in 2010 with dealer parts. I'm ready to order the Suncoast governor kit, I just want to make sure it's (probably) not something else...

I have some kind of electrical problem cuz I can go underneath and cross the 2 terminals on the starter and the truck starts but I get nothing with the key. Any suggestions where I should look?

I have a 98.5 which don't want to start, just replaced the IP around 5000 miles, has no codes, FP 15 WOT 17 idle, Battery's are new. No AC from the alt. I have fuel to the injectors. when it will start runs strong, idles great. Have reset the APPS, any ideas? no mods except gauges.

Ok, the other day I changed the oil and filter and every other oil change I change the fuel filter. This time I notice a litte dirt inside the housing so I drain the housing and clean out the dirt. It was cold out so I left the fuel bowl empty. In the past I've just filled it up to the top of fuel stem and rolled the key a couple of times and it would start. I forgot to fill the fuel bowl back up today and just rolled the key, and now it won't start. Pulled the filter and the bowl has fuel but it won't fire. I seen an article on here before about loosening fuel lines in a certain order but cannot find it. A little help would be appreciated.........

Well guys I got her going again!!!!!!!!!!!! It was just a dead Battery! Waiting on my BHAF to arrive soon then that will go in! The next will be a fuel pressure gauge, and a Raptor 100 with the big line kit and extra filter!!! Thanks guys for all your assistance in helping me with my truck!!!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did some tinkering on my truck this afternoon and now it won't start. Got these codes 0123, 1765, 1694. Can someone tell me what they mean or is there a chart somewhere on here that I can look on? The only thing I did that I think could have affected it starting was move the power and ground wires that I had on the battery connections over to the terminals in the PDC. These were power/ground for the Airdog and ground wires for the Suncoast APPS ground; which I wish I'd never done.

First off, let me say that this forum has been very helpful before, but I just can't seem to diagnose the issue this time. Hopefully someone has an idea on how to fix this.I installed my 4 gauge Autometer digital set(Boost, EGT, FP, and Trans temp) yesterday. Everything went in smoothly. Went to start truck up, wont start. Thought ok probably the fuel pressure, so cracked one of the lines, got fuel coming out, closed it. Tried it again. Wont start.:banghead: The FP gauge reads 0 while I crank, is that normal, or will it not register until I start the truck up? Any ideas??? Thanks ahead of time!!

As the title states my truck won't turn over at times as in starter won't even attempt to spin, when its happened with me I let the clutch out and push it all the way in again and we crank right up. I'm thinking/hoping that I'm getting a bad connection on the sensor that tells the computer the clutch is engaged and it's safe to start. Just want to poll the audience and make sure I'm not missing something or this is symptoms of a bigger issue. My main issue with it right now is the wife used her jeep to do some deer hunting and it's in the shop till Friday and I head out of town for work tomorrow, so if its a bigger issue, then I want to get it resolved before I leave. No …

01 Cummins won’t shut off....replaced ignition and still won’t shut off...any ideas?

New to me 2000 dodge ram with ppump conversion. Let the games begin. :lol:Got home from holidays. Truck wouldn't turn. Noticed batteries seemed dead . 10.6 V. Charged them up .... primary is holding 12.6 and secondary 11.8 (might have to replace). However truck will not turn at all.Checked the starter was getting 12V at the main terminal (large wire).Switched relays for starter around ....... no difference.Don't think it can be the fuel shutoff solenoid - as it would still crank wouldnt it just not start.So thinking I bumped something on the starter or something around that ........ideas ??

Alright, so I bought this truck for cheap, its a 2000 2500 automatic with fairly low miles. It has a fass platinum lift pump. When I bought it the injection pump was off, so obviously not running. The po had bought a new injection pump from bd diesel, a new pcm, a junkyard instrument cluster and a "new" ecm. He said the truck was running several times after the injection pump was replaced, but kept dieing and he was done with it. So I put on the injection pump, ive got it bled at the inlet to the vp, and all the easy injector lines cracked. Tryed cranking it a couple times, not a kick. It keeps throwing codes P0122, P01688 and P01689. I looked them up on this site for con…

I do my best to try and figure what I can without asking others for help but I'm stumped on this one, trucks been starting fine, went to the store, came back truck wont start, figured just a starter, a few years old. Replaced it, still no start. Started chasing wires power to the starter but nothing to solenoid 5v wire with key cycled to the start position. Pulled the relay. I have no constant power to pin 30. Dont know if there should or shouldn't be, all the other relays have power on 30. If I jump power from pin 86 to 87 and crank the key it fires right up, the list of things I have tried goes as followed. Jumped the clutch pedal safety switch. Checked every last fuse …

Ok so I replaced my contacts in my starter a week ago when my truck wouldn't start that fixed that issue! Now tonight I went out to start it and I noticed that mt lift pump ran for only 3 to 5 seconds and then I waited for the to go out and it just cranks, and I get no codes. So I turned the key to the "off" position and then turned the key to the "on" position and this time the lift pump ran like it's supposed to for about 20 to 25 seconds, and the came back on and I waited for it to go out and tryed it again still just cranks with no codes:banghead:. Now iv'e only had the truck a year, and replaced the fuel filter twice and each time I bumped it like required but I h…

Hey guys, I continue my seach for more MPG and so I called my local diesel shop and asked about prices on Bosch RV275 injectors. They told me that there is no such thing as a "Bosch" RV275. He said that it is an injector that someone has EDM's the nozzle on, AND he said that by doing this it hurts the life cyle of the injector. Questions: Is he right???, and should I care? I have heard good things about the RV275, but do I need to be concerned about it not lastin very long aka wearing out? Ultimately, can I expect any mileage gains out of them? Thanks. 2000 CTD, FASS95, RSD Straight 5", Quad XTZ+ (beta tune), NV5600, FP Gauge

Ive got a 2000 3500 24v 47re dana 80 dually 3.55 2wd and im talking to pyle bros axle shop in houston about ugrading to 4.10 and he mentioned about getting the trutrac. Im just hauling the backhoe around town a little. Is the truetrac worth it for my use. I like the idea of improving the traction with 2wd. Ill be hauling the drump trailer also too. Ive read that heavy towing isnt good for the truetrac. What do yall think about that?

I love the way a stick shift pulls but my 98 has the 47re. It was rebuilt just before I got it with supposedly heavy duty parts from a shop in Phoenix. I called the shop with my serial number and they said it was there heaviest duty tranny available. Now to my problem,I hate how this thing feels soft or mushy between lockup. Sometimes if I slow down almost to a stop but not quite, it will stay in second and just wind up really high without really gaining speed. Really anytime the convertor isnt locked it just feels like im not putting the power to the ground. Is this just the nature of the beast or will a good tripple disk TQ fix this? I drove my buddies 04 Dmax the other…