2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I have 150,000mile 1999 24 valve. I purchased in december and first thing i checked was lift pump, it was bad 0psi. I didn't know any better so I went to auto parts store and purchased a factory replacement one shaped different but worked. Now today was first time to put fuel and boost on truck and it shows 17-18 at idle and with cruising 2-3psi boost I am getting 15psi fuel. I laid into it in third gear and made 16psi boost and my fuel pressure went to about 8psi and jumped up as soon as i let off. Is this what everyone else is seeing? How about boost is 16psi top of third unloaded about all stock will do? Thanks guys. CD

so i went to the pawn shop earlier to sell some tool boxes, and i noticed my truck took a fraction of a second too long to crank...i thought no big deal...and then goin there(it's only a mile from my house) i felt what i thought may be the dreaded dead pedal...but in my case it was that it went back to idle with my foot on it....so anyway i ignored it.... i then left the pawn shop(with my toolboxes still) and drove at the most 2 miles and all of a sudden it starts missing and dies on me....i had to get pulled to a friend's house by a 6.7 too... so anyway...before the questions arise, i'm running an air tex stock replacement fuel pump, which works...but admitedly no fuel p…

I was thinking today why mess around with the junky 47rh auto trans if I could maby swap it out with an allison? I think fordcummins.com sells adapter for the cummins to mount up to an allison when you swap a psd with a cummins. I might be able to get my hands on an allison for pretty good price. Is this worth the trouble? Would I have to beef up the allison also to run BIG hp? I know my stock auto trans will not hold up to the power I am wanting to get. So I can either beef up the dodge trans or if I dont need to beef up the allison I could go with that. Any suggestion??? Just thought I would search around. Thanks

I want to personlly thank Dually and Michael for the help and pictures ,when I replied about the APPS installation, got it today installed and took it for a test ride and noticed the differance,quess the old sensor was on its way out,,,, again Thanks

I am hooking up boost gauge today and couldn't find steel so I got 3/4'' to 1/2 and then 1/2 to 1/8th to hook up my boost line to gauge. I was hoping some of you would say you have done this with no problems but if you think its going be a problem please let me know. Thanks in advance. CD

I had a friend awhile back that didn't purchase anything just tapped into somthing and his gauges dim with factory lighting in his 97 truck. Mine is 99 but figure its same. I can't get ahold of him and ready to hook it up today. Thanks

Buddy of mine has 1999 dodge truck, 5 speed 4x4. He replaced the vp44 & installed new injectors, the vp44 had failed, had that 16xx code, can't recall the exact code. The truck is hard starting, if it starts at all, if it does it idle's smooth but blows thick amounts of white smoke (i'm assuming lots of unburned diesel fuel) and the pedal is dead. White smoke does not go away.Several things I thought of vp44 installed wrong (timing key), injectors and/or connectors torqued wrong, over flow valve ???? I'm grasping at straws here, any suggestions appreciated.Thanks in advance.

I got it used off line and guy said he was upgrading to a 3 pod. well I got ready to trial fit it and the speaker is not in correct place and this is one that fits over the factory one you drill holes etc to mount it on top of. errrrrghhhhhhh! Man this makes me mad what year would this have fit on its same demensions as factory as far as lenth width just speaker hole different spot so this makes it impossible to mount on factory one! Any options? Thanks CD

I can see a few fittings but don't want to remove one if its a coolant passage or somthing. Thanks guys this website rocks. Chris

okserious Q as I live in a trailer RV parkWhere can I dispose of OIL and ATF fluid ?? Does anyone take it for free - or for $$ ?? I don't want to ship it to Michael or ISX for 'oil wrestling' ......... too $$ and its not pretty :moon:thx

going to replace apps, now I see that a screw needs to be turned to take out the slackdoes any one have a picture of this screw, in the front I presume, thanks

Yestarday, I pulled the boot of the CAC Tube and found "OIL" in the boot next to the CAC inlet. OEM turbo ex-change cost close to the price of new Aftermarket turbo. have narrowed it down to 3 choices, Switzer S300G, BD Super B kit or ATS Auroa 3000 kit. BD & ATS come's complete with downpipe and everything needed & is represented to be a "direct replacment fit", I am leaning toward ATS because of the 3yr. 150,000mile Warranty.. WHAT DO YOU GUY'S THINK WOULD BE THE BETTER CHOICE BASED ON MY MOD'S LISTED BELOW??? AN ONE RUNNING ONE OF THESE???

I am looking into beefing up my auto transmission. Anyone have any suggestions on a strong trans to hold up to moderate HP upgrades(120hp max). I dont think my stock can withstand a hole lot of extra horse. Any Idea's??? Thanks

American Petroleum Institute (API) oil selection guide. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=78

check out turbo diesel register's oil analysis of 21 different oils! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=77 what are your opinions? by the way....when i bought truck at 122k it was on rotella. switch to wally world, and now running the valvoline with the C

I know there are some of you that dread the day hen the voltage regulator gives up the ghost because you know the PCM has to be replaced... Well I dug up the information and artwork for doing a old school regulator to replace the PCM function. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/voltage-reg/voltage-reg.htm

I have two 1/8th pipe fittings in top of my fuel filter one is towards the side and one is closer to the center. I am guessing you want the fuel pressure that has just passed through the filter correct? If anyone has pictures please post so I don't mess this one up. Thanks CD

I have either a throwout bearing or something in bellhousing that is making noise untill you push clutch in or you take off driving. Also it seems now that its getting warmer outside you have to push the pedal all the way down to the floor to get the truck to shift properly. I have 155k miles and have only owned it for 5k miles of it. 1999 155k miles 5 speed. My question for you all is on the purchase of new clutch, I can go to Oreillys and get new one for $350 my price or spend a fortune on other brands??? I plan on doing airdog, big line kit eventually replacing my injection pump that is on way out, BHAF mod, and maybe a 65hp programmer in future. I don't race my truck …

Sorry Guys if this is beating a dead horse, Been trying all the serches with no luck.there was a good wright up on the cummings forum, I found it But,, I can't get it to open anymore,:shrug:I Have a pump coming from Jacob, just wanting to go over all the details. The little do's and donts.Thanks Ed...............

Hi I just changed my hyd clutch assy thinking it had failed and that wasnt it so i pulled the trans and found the clutch was finished ,so i put in a new southbend 13125ok assy. now its hard to put into first and second and grinds going in reverse its like its not fully releasing but then it seems to shift good through the rest of the gears on the road . the trans seemed fine before i had the clutch crap out. This is on a 98.5 dodge 1 ton cummins with 110000kms 70000miles it does a lot of clutch work and short trips. any ideas? did i creat my own problem or is something else wrong.Thanks JD63