2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Just wanted to show my cheap winter front <$20 1. Thin sheet of sheet metal from Home Depot for $9 (got the one in the ducting department which had cardboard around it (which I used for the template) 2. Duct Tape 3. 2-sided carpet tape Used duct tape on the grill front to provide a good base for the 2-sided carpet tape (by the way, the duct tape by itself probably provides enough barrier, but doesn't look as good). Cut out the sheet metal using some cardboard for a template. Trimmed best I could to fit the openings with the sheet metal shears. Put the 2 sided carpet tape on the back, peeled it and stuck it on. Don't know yet how it will bear in the elemen…

I was just wondering if anybody has taken the box off of one of the newer style Dodge Pickups 94 and up? When I was installing propane and natural gas systems and the tanks on vehicles many years ago we found it alot easier to install the fuel systems with the box off. I didn't do a newer style Dodge at that time. At that time 4 guys would pick it up and another would push the truck forward and put two saw horses under the box where we would set it down. I need to do the sending unit and new fuel lift pump system so that is why I was wondering how easy these boxes come off. It's so much easier to work standing up.

New to the forum previous owner of a 05 common rail.....soon to own 01 24 valve... Thanks in advance.. i just gave my word to buy an 01 2500 4X4 24 valve automatic truck... the truck is being sold because the vp is going out...i looked over the truck it looks fine starts fine but has these codes:ECU, p0122 apps/tps sensor voltage low,p0236 map sensor voltage too high too long, p0522 oil pressure sensor voltage low ,p0562 supply voltage low at ecm, p1488 auxiliary 5 volts supply output to low ECU done, PCU p1693 Pcu done.... am i crazy or did this truck just see low voltage and go to limp mode it was single digits when this happened along with the first and only dead peda…

I was installing my BHAF today and discovered that one of my batteries had blown up or something (a big piece of the top had broke loose and I could look right inside) and there seemed to be acid splattered all over under the hood:bang::bang: Any suggestions what would be the best course of action to clean this up? I did go to the car wash and washed it off good with soap then rinsed real good.

For 99 owners, where did you tap for your fuel line to gauge. My filter housing doesn't have anything on bottom to tap into like Mike's does. All I have on filter housing is the inline from the lift pump and the out line to the IP, both are on top of the filter housing. Also there are 2 capped ports on top, sorry no pics right now. Is the out line to the IP where I would thread in my tapped banjo bolt for the fuel line. Also, is it okay to run braided line all the way to mech. gauge, don't want isolator. Plan on doing the needle valve setup. Will braided line go into the gauge, i.e. will it thread into the port on the gauge itself, or do I have to do the nylon tubing kit…

Ok gang! Going to make this as simple as possible. On another forum everyone is now believing that 5 psi is a good fuel pressure to run. This is being said by a supplier that sells VP pumps. Although the Dodge service manual says 10 psi is the minimum. I have recently had correspondence with Cummins on this topic and they say "10 psi is the minimum" for the engine. I want you all to know I run 17 psi and am HAPPY with this pressure. What do you feel is the proper pressure to run?

What's the difference between a truck vp and a midrange vp? can we use the midrange pump on our trucks??:confused:

I'm still having trouble with my ScanGauge but wanted to make sure I understand something correctly. In order for Average MPG to be displayed as a gauge, I have to program it with Xgauge? I'm talking about average mileage on a tank of fuel not the mileage for the last 2 seconds that shows up on the gauge as MPG. If I toggle through the gauges, should I find one that says AVG?Thanks guys.

Mike thank you for all you do. You have helped me by phone twice and am now joining your forum - and yes I need some help!!! 1999 Dodge RAM 3500 4x4 Diesel Dually. Can't get it started in the morning - even jumping it (especially in this colder 20 degree weather) takes a while. On first startup (at night it shows well) the headlights will dim greatly for a few seconds and brighten (and repeat). I assume this is the alternator kicking on and off. After awhile this affect goes away. Running for awhileit will charge up well and restart as needed. If we take short stops and starts will notice it progressively harder to start up again. Assumed the batteries (3 year old…

Some folk's are saying that this pump is fine for a stock motor, and some are saying it is only good for target practice or an expensive paper weight. It is my understanding that it comes with two different springs (to adjust for more pressure if desired) , that it is a relatively easy install in the oem position, and that it is an option to install it down on the frame close to the tank with the required relocation kit. It comes with a four year warranty from the same folks that make the higher end FASS systems. So, for a stock motor, why not use this pump? Thank's for your time and attention............Hood Latch

I have a 1999 Dodge Cummins 24 valve. It's suddenly hard to start so I checked the codes. I got 380 & 382, so I checked the relays and it's not getting ignited/excited on the heater side when I turn the key on.The battery side of the relays are hot. I used a jumper wire and manually applied them, I can hear them click on. The diagnostics in the scanner say to do this to see if the relay is bad, if not then it just refers to the ECM. Is there an air intake sensor that can go bad? If so where is it and how do I diagnose it.Is there a way to positively diagnose an ecm?

My truck will only go in limp mode. Third gear only unless I manually shift 1-2-3. No overdrive. I get two codes - 1693 and 0743. The first time it went out I took the relay out and put it back in and it worked for 15 minutes. After trying this a few times it now has a code all of time and clearing the code does nothing once the car is truned back on. I checked the wires going into the transmission and the wires on the pcm. I also checked my lock up controller and I don't see any obvious wiring problems. I put a continuity tester on every connection on my lock up controller and there was not any continuity between the wires. I am now at a loss for how to diagnose this.

My 2001 xcab/lb 4wd Auto. 126,000 Has developed an intermitent shifting issue, it doesn't want to shift out of 1st. It does it one minute then shifts like nothing wrong the next WTF? Dave

Hey,Well I've got my new VP, power steering pump, and 150 hp (Jkidd) injectors installed!! I'm still trying to get the ps bled, but that's a different issue!! My question is this:I don't have my Edge Comp box tapped into the pump due to me wanting to make sure everything would be good to go before doing that! Would that cause the truck to throw an P0238 code and put the truck into limp mode??? I say limp mode b/c it doesn't seem to have much power, the EGTs won't get above 650-700* with my foot to the floor and boost won't get above 12-15 psi!!!!!I've tried to clear the code but it just seems to come right back as soon as I clear it!!!Also the code comes up twice. Once as…

Anyone know the diamater of the DiProcol gauges? I looked on several different suppliers websites, and even on the manufacture's site and can not find any reference as to the size. I have ordered the gauges, and need to order a steering column pod for the fuel pressure gauge but some pods say they are 2 and a 1/16" and some say 2". Thank's for any feedback............Hood Latch:confused:

Great site, glad I found it. My name is Bob Donnelly, I have a Freightliner FL50 with a Cummins ISB and, Fuller Eaton 6 speed. At 117K I replaced my VP44 because the truck was not running the same. Chip at Blue chip diesel, determined the computer on the VP44 was bad, so I replaced it , and the power was back. At only 120K I am having the same issues. Chip said to take it in for DTC scan. I did, it has no codes, the owner of the shop, said to test the wastegate, and to replace the leaking exhaust manifold gaskets. The wastegate leaked, so it has been replaced, and the manifold has new gaskets and bolts. I installed a fuel pressure gauge in dash at the time of the VP44 rep…

I am in the process of installing boost, pyro, fp and tranny gauges in my truck. So far so good but I am not sure about the tranny temp assembly. Where does the sensor go? Where is the best place to install the electronic control block?If anyone has knowledge and/or pictures I would appreciate your help.Thanks,Arcwelder

How did you make the template for cutting your air blocker in your grill? I plan on trying to use some leftover laminate I have, but want to cut a template for it first so I don't waste too much of it. Also, how did you secure the metal road sign pieces to the grill. It looks like the pieces are on the front of the grill. Is this correct? Thanks.

I cleaned my IAT Sensor this morning, wasn't that dirty, and plan on doing the MAP tomorrow morning (didn't have a 1 1/16 socket). This morning I checked the resistance on the IAT sensor, at approx. 43-47 degree F. I was getting 28.60 Ohms. Interpolating from Mopar1973Man's supplied temp/ohm chart, this sounds about correct. Anyone think that's incorrect?I also put a temporary air blocker in behind the grill this afternoon, as I noticed yesterday while driving to work 60 miles at a temp of around 27 F. that my IAT from my scan gauge was around 73 F. which seems a bit low. From the reading I've done here, the higher the better (up to a certain point I'm sure). Tonight went…

Where to start.. 2001 dodge 2500 144,000 miles BHAF, Mia silencer ring, 5in exhaust, 35 in tires. I just bought this truck 2 weeks ago went and test drove it everything good but the abs light was on he said he would get it fixed before he gave it to me and it was but now the speedo is stuck on 26mph but will go back to 0 when i turn the truck off. I tried the cluster test hoping it would fix it or something but still the same thing and it read no codes during that. Now with the codes i have been doing my homework and looking around to try and figure this out myself but not to sure where the best place to start with so much wrong. I did thi…