2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

i have a 2001 2500 --has no pwer,misses,surges under accelration and blows lots of white smoke . checked codes has po230 and po234- . also when looking at data screen on scan tool has no cmp rpm but tach works fine. can you help me thanksED

Trying to decide which to purchase, the Frantz filter for 200.00 or the Amsoil bypass, 260.00. The amsoil dealer has a 1999 cummins and has run so far 90,000 miles with the last oil change. He bought the truck to test his products. He changes the filter and two qts of oil every 25000 miles and runs a oil sample once a year. So far everything is good. Any ideas...thanks :confused:

Buddy of mine has a 1999 2500 4x4 (I assume 1999 on the plate on the door says mfg date is 7/99).He was driving his truck working just fine, then it died suddenly at 70, now it will start runs real ruff, barley idles, and there is no response from the throttle (aka dead pedal).The check engine light is on, however the ignition key on/off 3 times does not display codes via the odometer, it does on my 2002 2500.My question does the 1999 display trouble codes via the odometer (digging on the internet some say it should some say it will not)?2nd any ideas / hints might be wrong with the truck ?I know codes are needed otherwise just chasing our tails but thought someone might …

hey mike any news yet on my problem. sadly had to go on vac the day after i talked to you. my truck has been on my mind the whole time.you have my number if you have come up with anything. thanks,shane

Anyone have a good place and price to purchase the Frantz filter system ...thanks

I installed a airdog 100 and I finally install a glowshift fuel pressure gauge. I noticed the when I first ran the truck the gauge would read between 18 and 20 psi, then at times it would read between 16 and 20 lbs. Is the gauge the problem or the airdog...thanks :confused:

I recently lost the motor in my 02 H.O 6spd truck. Right now Im researching prices and avalibility on just a drop in junkyard motor. (Gonna build the snot out of the original). Do I need to find another H.O. or will any 24 valve work. Mostly worried about the computerized end of the deal. Any experiences will be greatly appreciated.

Hey I am back, and still have same problem with truck. LOL A little refresher, the rpm drop like a rock between shifts with A/C on and no problem with it off.This is what I have done I swaped turbos with my sons truck and no change, that was a lot of work for nothing :smart Then I got a ECM from a 01 and no change. It also has new cam sensor, and new apps.My thought is VP 44 right? Whats left?

My truck (2000 2500 automatic w/103K) has a bad case of dead pedal.I went by Autozone and had them read the codes and the only one was overboost.I cleared it and none have returned.It also has a fairly new fass ddrp lift pump on it.Once in a while it wil take off like normal for 2 or 3 presses of the accelerator; then just return to the same old dead pedal.Can the APPS be checked with a digital volt meter?Any other ideas? probably VP44?thanks in advance.joek

Reading the 4th gear hunting thread, I read that Dave3500 said his truck ran significantly better after he had a Dealer flash the computer(s). Is this something every 24V owner should do? BTW, what exactly is "4th gear hunting?" Is it an auto transmission issue? - djb

Hi guys,Because of Michael's recommendation I went ahead & purchased a used canister, bracket & filter from Ebay. I need some info on what fittings to buy from the Frantz site. Michael, you used to have a picture of the return line going through the oil cap. I think I'd like to use the same. Any problems with that for you? What do I need for that? Also, I read on one of your postings that you used an outlet from the factory filter mount, what do I need for that?Is it less messy to change the filter with the lines on the top. Is that why you did it that way? I only have about 1,500 miles on this oil, I think I'm going just install it when I get my parts together…

Here is an excellent article, by someone who knows, on oil, filters, antifreeze and gear lube. What he says is why I WILL and AM using synthetic oils. http://www.boss302.com/oil.htm

I am seeing and experiencing the problems all of you are talking about with the current stock crankcase vent and bottle. I am thinking about trying what I call a crankcase vapor condenser. I do not think it would work in those situations where the down hill angle would cause the oil to flow out. Following is a posting and update that I have put on a different diesel forum. OK! OK! Don't laugh me off the site! And I have the empirical proof! Unfortunately, I am not able to find the link any more, if I do I will post it. Basically, you make a condensation jar and put it inline of your PCV vacuum. For us GM dieselers this would be inline with our CDR. I have had one …

Just made a little jaunt with the CTD, about 300 miles each way near all highway. Note: I have stock rubber & 4:10 gears as in my signature. (IMHO, 4:10 ratio is too low unless you're going to put big rubber on it, but I own it now.)At 65.... 2000 rpm... was getting 17.8-17.9. On the way back, I dropped the rpms to 1900 & speed to 60 & mpgs went up to 18.2 With my stock truck, the overhead has always been right on. These are running right foot on the pedal, trying to get mpgs... cruise control does not feather the crest of hills & gets a bit less mpgs in my truck. Russ

Auto trans shifting all the time at 45 miles an hour... what could cause this???

Hello all. Have a few questions about egt temps. my truck really wants to stay 1100 to 1300 degrees when i get into throttle. Ive got a schneid hot rod vp44, 125 injectors, fass, a bigger turbo, im not sure how much bigger but it is not stock and 4 inch exhaust with no cat or muffler. Previous owner had programer on it but kept it. Thinking of getting edge programer hopeing it will help with rough idle. My friend who is mechanic says rough idle with hot pump is normal but im more concerend bout egts. Im not much into hot rodding truck but i got good deal and had alot of extras. Will going to smaller injectors effect larger turbo much? I dont want to spend a bun…

Hello all. decided to go ahead and post before i get kicked off. I have 2001 5 speed. just bought truck and already had a few mods. previous owner said it had a south bend clutch. My question is, when i push clutch in i get a loud rattle. I'm pretty sure its goin out but would like to know b 4 i buy a new clutch. My buddy said his rattles when his lets out. He has same model year and south bend. It will grid/engage when try to put into reverse also. Clutch holds pretty good under load, slips a little when get the boost up high. Any input would be helpful. Thanks

Anybody Running A Fass 95 If So What Kind Of Oressure At Idle And At WotI Installed Mine Yesterday And It Idles At 15.5-16.5 And Wot Drops To 7 Or 8 At Wot With Box On 2x5 I Thought It Should Do Better Than That My Ddrp Done That Good KERRY

i was wondering what kind of power my truck would make with the setup i have plus ddp 75 injectors i have a 99 dodge 2500 5-spd with a comp box and cold air intake and the 75 ddp injectors will be in thursday. i would go bigger with the injectors but i mainly want them for the fuel mileage increase anybody have an idea

I installed the big line kit and a fuel pressure guage. Everything was working fine, but now my fuel pressure guage bobbles back and forth when the truck is running and will stay in the area that the pressure should be. When I shut the truck off it doesnt bobble and slowly drops (wired it on a switch). Could this mean something is wrong with the pump, guage, or what? Any ideas?