2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Let me start by saying I know there is a lot of existing information on the forums but I have never tuned any gas or diesel vehicle before, and this is my first diesel vehicle so i'm just not comfortable figuring it out on my own. If you are annoyed by folks who ask already answered questions I would just ask that you move on to a different post. I have one generic question and then a few tuning related questions. First, the general question. What is the best way to go about finding a shop, or a person near me who has the ability to enable the factory high idle and 3 cylinder high idle in my ECM. I am located in Omaha so bonus points if you already…

New to the forum, but been on the sidelines as a reader for some time now. I drive a 2001 24 valve NV5600 cab & chassis with HO 5.9. I have an issue that seems to show up as the temperature drops, but not always when cooler. The truck starts fine and takes off fine then all of a sudden power loss. No throttle response until speed drops to 35 mph (in sixth gear, different in other gears) then power kicks back in and we are going again for a bit until power loss repeats. Have also noticed when this is happening I have no operating temperature increase on the temp gauge. Can say the gauge is true due to no heat while the event is happening. …

When your buying ring terminals for the alternator don't go cheap and buy just larger crimp rings. Make sure to get a good copper ring for the alternator lead. I thought yesterday my alternator quit being the circuit breaker didn't trip neither did the fuse for the field wire. I kind of messed up yesterday and was trying a pop a rib out yesterday so I asked Mark to swap out the alternator with our donor truck here. He started pulling my alternator off and the charge lead fell off. The ring tore on one side and the rest of the ring wasn't strong enough to hold the current and poof! It melted and opened the circuit for charging. I highly suggest using copper te…

I'm trying to remember if the PCM has anything to do with the security/keyless entry, or is that all handled by the CTM? My left leg/knee cannot handle the performance clutch in my 6 speed 4x4 anymore, so I need to find a built auto trans to swap for or try to trade my pickup with its complete brand-new paint job for an auto trans pickup that's had the trans rebuilt.

Took my truck for it's yearly MOT check today failed on drivers side upper and lower ball joint.... no problem got those drivers side wheel bearing ..... haven't got one, have a 2006 to 2008 but my guess is it will be different ?? Here in the UK a lot of replacement wheel bearings are just that... just the bearing and not the whole thing, we just press the 2 peices apart, remove the bearing and repress back together, is this possible on a 98 4wd with no front ABS, I have a good bearing company not to far from me so if it pressed apart and there's a number on the actual bearing it may be a go ?? Changing the bearing would be quicker than ordering the w…

My front driveshaft ate my pcm wiring harness in the middle of nowhere, it ripped the entire harness out of its connectors. My question is, does anybody know if any pcm wiring harness from 1998-2001 will work in my 1998.5 24v? I’ve seen someplace that only 98 and 99 are compatible but I’ve seen nobody saying why. When I compare the two harnesses from photos they look the same?

47re shifts in and out of all gears does not do it first thing in the morning when when everything gets all warmed up it will jump in between gears and 1-2 will be super late. Fresh rebuild with only 2000 miles on it. Replaced gov pressure sensor and transducer. Sometimes it will go away for a while if I do an apps reset but not always. Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks!

Hey all, hoping I can get some advice or an answer from somebody who has had this problem or knows a lot more than I do. Last night, I decided to flush my power steering system because my steering never has been great and I’m also sure it’s never been done (truck has 320k miles). Before flushing, I did the DIY hot rod pump mod because after reading and seeing how much people liked it I figured I’d give it a try. I drilled the holes to the proper size and location on my Bridgeport and made sure they were exactly centered. I cleaned the relief valve and reinstalled it as well. Next, I did the flushing procedure as described in the Haynes manual, removed both return lines an…

Noticed recently that my truck sometimes doesn't fire right away, if it doesn't it will only start after turning the key to off and then start again, It is very intermittant which makes me think electrical, not noticed the WTS light yet but I'll be watching that over the next few days, no fault codes on dash but again haven't had time to drop the box on it, but over the weekend I'll get to it, I suppose it could be the VP, whatever it is I get the feeling its not going to be a cheap fix Couldn't have come at a worse time as going into hospital a week tomorrow (saturday) all being well for my hip replacement, being done on our NHS for free,1 night in hospital …

After the ball joint at the steering gear snapped the other week AND it's MOT time I decided ok time to fix some stuff, long steering joint I've had for nearly a year and not fitted it, on the list, right hand wheel drive shaft U joint cream krackered so 2 on the list from rock, some clown was over the white line on a little lane a few weeks ago and smashed the right towing mirror glass and body so on the rock list SO 2 u joints and a towing mirror $350 or so to my door inc shipping duty and VAT .... pants down comes to mind, it's getting expensive to run my truck already got upper and lower ball joints and all the rest of the steering, shocks all round…

Good morning everyone! Here’s the story, might be a little long but I want to give every detail so it makes it easier, bought an 01 24valve auto off a used car lot not running dirt cheap. Guy didn’t seem to understand these trucks. Only mods are a fass DDRP, nothing else truck has 140k, and a new reman trans, very carefully inspected truck and no prior meatball repairs or hacked wiring. upon first arriving at the lot here’s what I did. - trucks battery terminals were beat/ corroded, managed to get them tight and partially clean -found fuel relay missing out of fuse box under hood, swapped with horn relay and truck fired, ram very poorly but was enough to get on …

After getting the valve cover off and pulled the 8mm bolts holding injectors those bolts were loose. Then took a lot of force to pull number one out. The injector was carboned in place. No copper washer. I've got a fight with 5 and 6 yet to pull out of the head. The truck came in with a complaint of pressure in the fuel tank and spitting fuel out the filler neck. Mark just found the copper washer buried in the carbon build up. Managed dig out.

edit: added video in reply Hey gents, glad to see the site is back! I needed it during that time hahaha. I just replaced my head and put in some 110# springs, ARP 425’s etc. I have this tapping noise that is usually most prevalent when coming down into idle range whether in gear or free revving in neutral. I have a feeling it’s a bad exhaust leak but it’s driving me nuts since occasionally it’s not there and then will be there when I park. I adjusted valves after the head job and did mess up there the first time.. lost #6 intake bridge due to I believe the nut being too loose (oops, live and learn!). Replaced that push rod, and used moparm…

1) 150 hp over injectors DAP 7x0.010 VCO..hamilton 103 pd springs and pushrods 2)MDC S300 62/65/14 cm or 12cm 3) 47RE Auto (Don't know what's been done if anything at all) 4) 4:10 gears 35 tires and 20 inch rims 5) air dog FP-150 6) DPS exhaust manifold 7) S & B cold air intake 8) Pusher 3.5 mega intak3 (W) Cross air # PDC9802MCA 9)ARP Studa 247-4262 10) 188/220 Hamilton Cam 11)Quadzilla Adrenaline Tuner Need a Daily aggressive street tuner

Wednesday (Oct 17, 2023) we all headed out and got up to the west side of Florence ID and got to our old spot. Damn It! Our wood spot has been bone-picked. We moved to another spot on the mountain and found lots of wood but bigger-diameter trees. No biggy. So I started to back up the trailer to park it out of the way and the steering started to whine. I shut down instantly and got out and you can clearly see the fluid came out of the top cover of the steering box. Being Beast has all of Thor's tools I just simply got the right wrench. Now checking the top cover 2 bolts were loose. I snugged up the bolts and no what for fluid? DISCLAIMER: NOT A PERMANENT SOLUT…

These showed up yesterday, I’ll drop em in sometime over the next few days and see how they do. Haven’t seen or talked to anyone who’s tried them yet.

I want to preface this by saying I have gone to all the local auto parts stores looking for a map sensor and had to order one. But last night, I was wondering what the best way to get the map sensor looks like it is too thin to get a socket into, and I couldn't finagle a wrench onto the head. Any help would be immensely appreciated.

I've been fighting a blend door issue where if you turned the temperature up to warm up the cab and later want to turn it to a cooler setting the door wouldn't move. You had to turn it up hotter and then quickly down lower and it would start to cool down. Now Being I've never done a heater treater yet I was thinking the shaft broke and hanging it up. I grabbed Mark and asked him for an offset Phillips driver. With little patience, I managed to remove the two Phillips screws and removed the stepper motor for the blend door. I was shocked my shaft coupler was still going strong. Then I popped open the steeper motor lubed the gears with …

Needing some opinions, here’s what’s up. My 2000 just rolled over 300K, everything that has ever even thought about needing to be replaced has been with oem or better parts. I’m on the original injectors, original VP44, original head gasket, and original turbo. My Tappet cover is leaking pretty bad, and aside from that leak I’ve not had any leaks other than a little weeping at the oil pan. My question is, should I just do the Tappet cover and keep going, or should I go ahead and do injectors, VP, oil pan gasket, new turbo, rebuild vacuum pump, front main seal, ect while I’ve got everything pulled apart. I am usually a “it ain’t broke” kinda guy, but at 300K I have to cons…

I just need the bushings for a 2000, 3500. I'm not trusting what I am seeing online. Where would you guys purchase?