2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I decided to have my shop install my rv275's and gould vac pump reseal kit... hoping that I could avoid tearing anything apart myself since this is the busy time of year for work. But now that my fuel and oil leaks are fixed... another oil leak has presented itself behind the motor, I believe from the valve cover. I gave them a brand new gasket from Geno's to install when they did the injectors. I am thinking they must have just not seated the gasket properly as it never leaked there before. Instead of wasting the time (and oil) driving it back to the shop, I want to do this myself. I recently read something about the newer trucks having something interlaced through the g…

Truck is at operating temperature, although what I describe below happens while starting at cold temp. I installed the FRRP-100 last weekend and set the pressure to 19.0-19.5psi at idle. Notice the normal initial 2 sec run at ~21.5 psi. After starting, it runs at ~15.5 psi for 15 sec and then jumps to 16 psi - finally it jumps to 19 psi and the engine sound different. Coincidently the ScanGauge 2 comes on at the same time. Is this a function of Open vs. Closed loop of the VP44? Is this a function of the ECM? Thank you.

http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww66/carlhend/7A882EFD-08B1-489E-9841-71DBAB65C14A-1821-00000212176DF118.mp4 http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww66/carlhend/7A882EFD-08B1-489E-9841-71DBAB65C14A-1821-00000212176DF118.mp4 It has done this periodically over the past 3 yrs but it was extremely rare. Only knew because it would flash for a second warning that I was going 100+ mph while clearly not. Now since yesterday it has been pretty bad doing it regularly and even cutting fuel saying I was going 150+ mph while cruising at 60. I have the p1693 code which I need to get looked further into with a reader. Since the weather has warmed up the truck has had a bit of a miss w…

Just trying to take all the steps to keep my vp going strong as I don't know its history as iv only owned the truck little over a month now. So with meter on DC engine running = 13.97 V switch to AC =.03 - .04 according to Mikes vid .1 is the limit ? so im hoping im good to go for a good while its a quik and ez check. with over 300,000 miles im assuming the VP maybe its been replaced but I don't know, it did still have a carter LP but its replaced now with a airdog 100.

Ok i've posted issue's with a off and on "dead Pedal" issue on this forum but i finally found the reason why after a few test run's. After all the test i have disscovered that any time i run my A/C on any setting my pedal goes dead good fuel pressure and so on just a dead pedal till i turn off the A/C. I can't even imagine why those two item's would even be tied together so any idea's why this is happening??? Thank's look forward to your anwser's

I am looking for a new turbo and would appreciate your input. I currently have a hx35/40. I rarely tow, but would like to keep that capability. I really want low smoke, quickish spool, and enough air to keep things cool. I like drivability and don't race. Perhaps, I have too much injector as currently I have the comp dialed back and the smarty as well. I have too much fuel for the turbo I have at present.From my reading and thinking... A 63/68/14 might work well, but I am not sure. Money is always a concern as well... Plus, anybody want a hybrid?

From the time I bought my Cummins the trip, compass, fuel mileage computer that is located between the visors has been a screw up. The compass always has CAL and the direction is always incorrect. I have calibrated it according to the manual and what is posted on Geno's. The Calibration resets has long as the truck is running but always goes back to CAL mode when I restart. My average mileage is stuck on 15.3 but will change when I reset it and give much better readings but again when I turn off the truck and restart it goes back to the original numbers.I am hoping that I will not have to purchase a new one, most are selling for $200 on ebay. Any ideas or suggestions wo…

my work just had got a traded in a 1999 dodge ram 2500 but owner had installed the 3500 heavy duty logos from third generation ram... BUT problem is the owner said that transmission is only work in reverse... I was supposed to do that because I has worked on those before but somehow I was back up of works so the dispatcher gave to the wannable technician to do used car inspection... I told him to look at shifter. he said the shifter was act like out of the position... I told him to pulled the shifter assembly out. there is problem is the transmission are NV4500. AND it is brand new.... new clutch, pressure plate but too stiff!!! I did got the shifter back in the positi…

My ? is my wait to start light does not come on and my lp does not cycle when I bump the starter,i hooked a code scanner up today and it comes back 0 codes and when I turn the truck off there is a clicking noise coming from my speaker about every three seconds with the key off.

I have searched the forums til I am blue in the fingers and I cannot find a diagram for the lock out switch. I know I am terrible at finding the right search terms but man! I thought I saw diagram a while ago with the switch and the included resister? I am not an electronics person, I know it is a 33 ohm resistor but what about the rest of the values? volts? watts? And would you know where I can find a flared section of pipe for the 4" outlet on a Banks brake? Or some other way of adapting the pipe to it? Rick - - - Updated - - - OK, Let me rephrase this. I am looking for the diagram for the manual lock up switch. My original post may have been confu…

Simple question is the original fuel cap vented?

I am on my 3rd fill up with 1oz of Super Tech 2cycle per gallon of fuel. Maybe coincidence! I use to bump the starter and engine immediately fired up. Now it takes 2-3 seconds of cranking. Stock transfer pump installed 36,000 miles now at 98,500 miles. Fuel pressures no load on truck: Idle 14psi, 75mph 10psi, on interstate WOT 8-9psi - this is monitored before the fuel filter. Fuel filter changed 94,000 miles FS19598 Fleetguard. Recent fill up 178 mile trip with 301 mile trip next day and there was a vacuum when removing OEM cap on tank. Even if I bump starter and pressure builds still 2-3 seconds of cranking. Any ideas

I bought a Banks brake used and I need a flanged down pipe. I already have 4" exhaust but it is necked down to match the stock turbo outlet. The Banks brake has a 4" outlet, flanged. They want over 200.00 for the down pipe alone!!!

They claim it's an injector tester but I don't think so. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIESEL-FUEL-INJECTOR-TESTER-ADAPTER-5-9L-CUMMINS-WITH-24-VALVE-ELE-INJECTION-/261215973677?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item3cd1af712d&vxp=mtr

Went on a fairly long trip this morning (600kms) to bring home another Suzuki Samurai and decided to actually calculate the mileage. I ended up getting 17mpgs. Half was empty trailer of course, but I'm pretty happy with those numbers. The trailer is a 16 foot and the Sammy weighs about 2600lbs so the load wasn't real big. I was driving fairly fast too 110km/hr and there was some hilly sections and a bit of wind to fight. That was with the Comp set on 1x5. I had it on 3x5 for a bit but my EGTs seemed to stay above 700 too much. I sure like the 2 stroke oil in the fuel, it does quiet down my engine a lot. Too bad fuel is $1.18 a liter here now. The trip cost me $97 …

I finally got my 4” exhaust hooked up yesterday. WOW, what a difference it made in the old heap. It really woke the truck up. I can’t believe the difference it made on how quickly the truck revs up. I drive it like an old man (of course I am) and usually shift the truck around 2 to 22 thou. Now I can’t stop the thing from reving to 3 before I can move the lever. Been racing and building hot rods all my life and I have never seen an exhaust make so much difference. I have been making up excusses to drive the truck anywhere for anything ever since.. I am a happy camper:hyper:

So here's the deal. Truck is an 02 with a built auto, 120k miles and edge comp with tapped wire, stock injectors. After tons and tons of reading I decided that upgrading to an hx35 would be better for the truck and just make the truck better overall but I honestly don't know how to feel about it now that I'm doneThe truck makes way more heat on the egt's. Like everywhere but way up high in the rpm range. With the stock injectors and pinned I can only just barely touch 1250 unloaded but this was impossible with my hy. and whereas my hy made a max boost of maybe 20 the hx makes about 37 max psi.whats going on here? I get more heat, less spool up down low. Higher cruising eg…

I'm wanting to redo the fuel system on my '83 F250 with Cummins. Right now it is only using one of it's two 19 gallon tanks, the front tank. I'd like to replace the rear tank with a drop in replacement 38 gallon; and, would it be worth while to add a sump to the new 38 gallon tank? Picture of a 38 gallon installed I was thinking of adding a typical billiet $$$$ diesel sump to the lowest point in the tank pictured or using a formed steel sump more common in drag racing applications. http://www.jegs.com/i/Jegster/550/40793/10002/-1?parentProductId=747210 My second question is which lift pump should I be looking at? I never plan on making big power, r…

I am new to diesels and just bought this 99 which ran when I went to pick it up. It started really slowly like the batteries were dying but still ran. I got it home and realized the crankshaft sensor wasn't even plugged in. This was the reason the batteries were not charging. I replaced sensor and started looking around and found alot of unplugged wires in the engine compartment. Tried to start and lift pump was not pumping just making noise. Replaced lp on side of block and got pressure to vp at banjo entry. cracked lines to injectors and there was only a little dribble from any of them. Still no start. My question is: is there a way to rig these trucks to run …

On the final leg of my journey to our campsite while towing my travel trailer the engine temperature climbed up to about 220. The mark between 190 and 240 on the dash gauge. We were on a paved road, so no low range 4x4 was utilized. The grade was very steep and I was in second gear at about 2,000 RPM's. When I got to the top the temp reading for the engine was about 220. Smelled hot too. No gauges to monitor EGT's, etc so I cannot comment on that. So I put the truck in neutral and ran up the RPM's to about 1,500 until it came back to normal operating temp. Is this typical or should I be looking for an issue?