2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I need some help, I recently acquired a wiring harness from a manual for my manual conversion and I need to see where the neutral safety switch plugs in under the dash. Could someone take a few pics and post them up of the mechanism that fits onto the slave cylinder shaft and where it plugs in at? [ATTACH]4852[/ATTACH]

So interesting development on truck. Lately after initial startup the truck lopes real bad and would probably stall unless I gave a little fuel. After some throttle she's fine and first return till next startup Thinking air leak or ECM issue at startup that levels off Leaning air leak Fuel psi is steady at 15 psi before and after

I just installed a Pacbrake on my truck and the warm up feature is not working. It actually worked for 30 seconds on first startup but not any more. Just wondering if anybody here had thoughts or experiences. I ran a wire from the activating solenoid to the battery so I could turn it on manually and that works but it back feeds power somewhere and turns the HVAC on when I energize it!

After reading Mikes thread about the ball getting stuck to the spring I figured I'd check mine today.yep the ball was pushed into the end of the spring bit. back up to 16 at idle and the lowest I could get it to drop to wot was 13.5.What a mess what do you guys do to keep from losing alot of fuel. I clamped the hoses but it still was a diesel bath. Do they make some shut off valves to put in line with the big line hoses??Luke

The other day the wife picked my truck up from inspection and said it smelled like coolant. I never had any issues before so I looked for leaks. Found none. Took it out and it seemed to take forever to get to 190 but it smelled like coolant before it got there telling me it was warm. The temp. (scan gauge and factory gauge) would go as high as 204 and then all of a sudden drop to 188 in a matter of 20 sec or so and then climb back up and repeat. What gets me is the radiator cap is cold even after a 1/2 hour drive and the bottom hose is cold but the top is hot so the stat must be opening. I thought the stat might have failed 1/2 open which would explain the symptoms so I …

I've been trying to figure why I have what feels like a fuel starvation problem about 10 minutes after startup. Talked to Eric at Vulcan and he suggested that maybe a line was sucking air. I felt around up at where the lines attach to the fuel tank module and both lines would slide around on the nipples. This seems like it could be the problem as if there were a slight leak, as the truck sat for a while the fuel pickup line leaking would allow the fuel to lose vacuum and cause an air pocket, that after startup would work it's way up to the engine. You guys that have some experience with this stuff...Is this normal? How do those lines clamp to the nipples? Since I ca…

I really just want to see if it is just me or if others have the same luck. 3 years ago i smoked an airdog 150. Bad seal between motor and pump burned it up. 8 months thirteen days on that one. Replaced with a raptor 100. 123 days later, bad seal, smoked motor. Replaced with a raptor 150, Big lines from DSV to VP. A year and change later. Dead. Opened it up and I'm telling you, no magnets left. Just a big pile of soot and carbon inside. Replaced with a warrantied 150. Eight months to the day, same thing. Dead. Only this time, brushes as well. I rigged up a stocker with some fittings and hooked it to the biglines of the Raptors, plugged it into the raptor harness and …

Hi Guys, my truck started hesitating while driving it this morning. This happened a couple of weeks ago when I started driving when it was cold and the problem seemed to go away when warm, so I thought the Smarty was limiting fuel till the engine warmed up. This morning it hesitated (feels like fuel starvation) after it was warm, did it for about 10 minutes and then everything was fine. I just got home and pulled the codes from the Smarty and got 2; P0602 and P1693. In reading other posts here I get that the 0602 is a normal code because of the smarty changing the fuel map, and the 1693 is a companion code usually in conjunction with something else. So I have a circu…

What are the options for achieving torque converter lock up in 1st and 2nd gear? I'm installing an exhaust brake and I'm thinking this might come in handy.

I have a list of codes that I need to understand. Engine is not running right and trans is crazy. Any help would be appreciated.code listECMp0380 - intake air heater relay#1p1698 - no Transmission bus messagesp0341 - cmp signal errorPCMp1492 - Batt. temp. sensor voltage too high= not plugged in but is it needed?p0463 - fuel sender unit volts too highp1694 - no engine bus messages receivedp1687 - no mic bus messages receivedp1693 - mil fault in companion modulep1594 - charging system voltage too highp1899 - park/neutral switch failurep1682 - charging system voltage too lowwhat do I need to do to make the pcm and ecm talk to each other?Its not in a dodge truck by the way. I…

I have a 99 2500 4x4 with a quadzilla tuner and air dog. Today on my way to work my cruise just stopped working, my air bag light came on and it spitted and stuttered a little. When I went to leave work I bumped the key to engage the pump and no pump and no start. I have always had to wait for the wait to start light to go out before starting and always had a hard start. But this just has me puzzled. Could this be my ECM or is it somewhere else?

I am having an issue with my truck not wanting to start when it is cold out. symptoms are below say 40-50 degrees the fuel pump will not come on, I get a CAD communications error, I have no gauges, no wait to start light, and I do not hear any relays click when I turn on the key. I have not seen any codes using the key trick. now here is the fun part. If I plug the truck in for a few hours it will start just fine and everything works properly. Truck has new batteries, and the connections are tight. Should I be chasing grounds with these symptoms, or should I be looking for a cold solder in the ECU, or am I just chasing my tail without diagnostic equipment to see what …

Replaced my battery cables yesterday. Started the engine up 4 or 5 times, fuel pump was working. Tried starting this a.m. and can't hear the pump energize. Checked the fuse in the wiring harness, switched the fuses in the PDC, looked at all of the connections they still have dielectric grease on them, replaced the relay in the harness and still nothing. What am I missing here? Any help would be appreciated!

I'm hooking up a resistor to my IAT for the MPG mod. I'm going to use a DPDT switch. One position to the IAT for cold mornings, the other position to the resistor. The only IAT extension cord anyone has heard of is for a gasser. Are the plugs the same? Anyone know of where to get one for a diesel?

My Tach, oil pressure, and engine temp gauges stop working all of a sudden. My Speedo and Voltmeter still work. I have had this truck for about 4 months now and this is about the 3rd time this has happened. It will sometimes randomly jar or jump while driving or idling. Nothing is happening at any intervals so I am not sure what it is. Last time this happened it lasted a couple days and it all started working again. I had one battery that needed replaced so I have a one new battery( the factory battery so it lasted 10 years). I hooked the code reader and it gave a no bus code. I forgot the number though. Hope somebody can help. Thanks

already looking at mods. Where does one start? Is there an order one should do stuff in?What is a good programmer that doesn't break the bank?p.s. if I had lots of extra money to blow on mods, I'd have a new truck. lol

So, looking under the hood one day, checking the oil level, I noticed a hairline crack running right between cylinder 3 and 4. More than likely and I'm putting money it, the funky color I was seeing under the turbo on th manifold was probably this same crack, but I bet it has now traveled. If not though, and regardless, how much of this is a problem and do I need to worry? If this is a mandatory fix, what do I need to go with? - - - Updated - - - Nobody, eh?

I am working on a 2000 24 valve and the initial problem was that the truck didn't have both batteries connected when my friend bought it. He was having transmission shifting issues. He discovered that both batteries werent connected, fixed that and the trans started working correctly. After some time passed the engine started idling high. His neighbor adjusted his apps then put another apps and it didn't fix the problem. He brought it to me and after pulling codes and checking the apps voltage, i put another ecm from another truck and the idle problem was fixed so he bought another ecm. When test driving, the truck got a dead pedal when you would put the pedal to the floo…

So, I was just thinking, don't even really know what brought this up, but if IIRC, a jake brake (ie engine brake) decreases the compression in the motor, causing the cylinders to not be able to utilize the full stroke of the bore, thus regulating the output of the motor, correct?Wouldn't there be a way to do something like this, on a 24valve, using the same programming that allows the 3 cylinder high idle? just wondering, not sure if it actually shuts off the 3 cylinders, or causes the exhaust valves to open similar to an engine brake.

I have a "wait to start light" that doesn't come on all the time. I have to cycle the ignition switch maybe 5-6 times before it finally comes on, then truck will start. No light, no start. I have a 99. Just bought it from a friend, he had this issue before the vp44 took a dump. I replaced pump, truck runs awesome once the light comes on. Did a search of the internet and now can't find the articles I found before.:banghead:I love this truck!