2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,288 topics in this forum
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So I got my RV275s in the mail today. I have a question on the removal of the old ones. I don't want to pull the lines off the pump end, but I got new O rings for the transfer tubes so they have to come right out. Can I just loosen the hold down brackets and gently move them out of the way enough to get the tubes out? I have checked the net and watched pepsiocean's video so I'm all good with the rest of the procedure, just not sure about the lines is all.
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Hi to all! I'm new and I have a problem with my dodge ram 2500 cummins (1999 yrs).At the morning when I go to turn on it, the ligth"wait to start" flash and the engine don't start until I disconnect the battery terminal and immediately reconnect it. From that moment engine work without problems.I hope someone of you can help me! Thanks
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I have a 100% stock 01 3500 SC 4x4 6 spd 3.54, 190k. Fuel psi 8-11 after filter under load, clean air filter, no codes, starts and runs great but no upper end power. I have ran it with a solus plugged in an monitored boost and it says its making 30 psi, turbo feels good, no boost leaks, we have swapped ecm's and map sensor with no change. I have down loaded a smarty on highest setting with almost no change. No power and no smoke even with smarty. I have even disconnected exhaust with no change. Has anyone ever experienced a VP failure with these symptoms and no codes? I guess thats probly what i will try next. Open for ideas though.
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Man, I tell ya, something is gong awry. I done alot to get my truck into excellent running condition. The truck practically is "brand new". The list is long with what I have done to the truck. The most extreme of things I have not yet done are replacing the vp44, tps, turbo, etc.Over the course of a few monhs, my mileage has dropped significantly. I was averaging about 18-20 mpg right after I replaced my injectors. But now, my mileage has dipped down to as low as 14mpg on avg!I don't understand what this could be stemming from? I have not noticed any drastic change in performance in the truck and have not had a CEL. Granted, I can scan for codes tomorrow and check just to…
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Lasts friday I spent a few hours and swapped in my RV275 injectors (40k miles) and injection pump from Blue chip diesel. I just got the base model. Everything went really well and from the time I parked it and fired it back up was less than 4 hours. I watched every video and read every single thing I could before I started work so I pretty much knew what was going on before I touched the 1st tool. Once I was done and finally got the fuel system bleed I noticed it now idles at 800 rpm. Before the swap it would idle at 900rpm in neutral and in gear it would come down to 800rpm. Now, it idles at 800rpm them dips to 700 for just a second then returns to 800. I pulled the truc…
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I noticed that my rpm at idle has gone from 850 to just a little over 900. This is a constant thing even when warm.Does this indicate a problem? What's the cause and is there a fix? No codes. Thanks for any help.
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I. Started seeing problems with fuel pressure i have raptor 150 i cleaned the filter screen there was alot gunked up put back together same thing when im at idle i have 14-15 when warmed up at cold 12-13 regular driving i see 9-11 psi romping on it its gone to 0psi i wouldve thought the truck wouldve cut out but it kept pulling hard the vp was recently replaced along with lift pump and fuel filter i noticed at idle the lights will dim and fuel pressure will drop 3-4 psi and jump back up im some what new with this someone help i dont wanna replace the vp:(((
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Well on my way back to a job to finsh up for the evening I was getting back up to highway speed little heavy on the throttle and pulling along rather good and strong then BAM! It fell on it face. I look down and the Edge Comp blinked off for about 1 second and then back on. But there was no power change still flat. I'm thinking the Edge comp finally died on me with a bit more than 5 years of service. So I get to my job and was early so while I was sitting I tried changing the the levels it was locked on 5x3. Huh? So I turn key off and unplugged and replugged the Edge Comp module hoping to clean up the connections a bit. Sure enough I fired it up and Edge Comp responses a…
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If I loosen the #4 and 5 injector nuts only, do I need to bleed the whole system again or can I just bleed those two lines by bumping the starter til they leak? Or do I not even need to bleed them for just removing the nut?
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Ok guys here is another question to ponder. Which one would you add/stack with a TST power programmer. A Smarty or the MVP tuner? If Im not mistaken they both control timing and are better for low end torque, but unsure which would be better of the two. Im looking for more low end torque to help the TST. The power band doesnt kick in with the TST until later in the rpm band. Any thoughts? Anybody have this set up? I know people tell me to just by both, but lets get real.
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NV4500So I am driving about 50mph with my foot light on the accelerator and she just eased out no grinding no pop. What the heck?:spend::spend::spend:Here we go again
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This is Copy and pasted from Cummins Forum, thread I started. I even called Mike and we talked about it... This is too educate all the if the VOLTAGE is bad, the INJECTION PUMP will not work. This I did not know, but learned. Hope y'all find it helpful in the feature. But I have a question at the end. Please read and info will help. Two days ago: Sitting at dq, for a few hours waiting on some guys to meet me. After they left, I went to start my rig. No battery, so got two guys to jump me at same time. -After a long crank, it seemed to no be getting fuel. -Cracked lines 1, 3, and 4... then let the raptor 150 bump start run for 30 seconds 2x - …
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Installed pump on frame rail July 2. Noted that a very small turn (!/8) of the adjusting nut would increase pressure by 15 lbs. Today, I looked at my guage and it was at 10 lb idleing. Jumped under the truck to adjust relief spring and turned it 1/2 turn to get pressure back to 20 psi at idle, 23 with engine off. Now if I floor it in drive press drops to 7 psi. Drops to 15 at 5lb boost. New stock filter 2 weeks ago. Stock 3/4 ton empty. Stock draw stray and fuel lines to the raptor. Stock line to filter bypassing original pump. Oil filled mechanical guage tapped at the Vp44 inlet banjo. Worked great up to now pulling 12,000lb load. Time for warranty???
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Can a person rewire the lift pump to operate when ignition is on instead of thru. the computor?
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Ok guys and gals this is my first post here and i feel like im out of options. I know mopar man is the man so figured i would try here. I have spent over $4800 on this one problem and the Dodge dealer or local shops cannot figure out the problem. The truck has been like this for 3 years and im about to just part it out LOL. Here is the problem. The truck starts and runs fine when u first fire it up. It idles like it is supposed to until it gets to operating temps. Once it gets to normal temp it starts to "miss" at idle unless i keep the RPM at 1500 or higher. Once it misses the check engine light comes on and puts truck in limp mode. I can pull over, clear the codes with …
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when my 02' is cold in the morning I have really bad dead pedal no power, until it warms up for several minutes. Then is runs fine for a while then until the truck is good and heated up I am getting intermittent dead pedal throughout the day. I checked the codes on the ignition and am getting P 1693, P 0122 and P 0216. I am not getting any white smoke and I am not getting any check engine light and no rough idling at all. I just replaced my apps with a Timbo apps sensor....still having the same problems. I've checked the maps sensors and both are clean. My question is does all this add up to a bad VP44 or is there something easier and less expensive I can check before div…
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We have the 47e automatic transmission on our 99 Dodge Cummins... purchased with around 150K and we just rolled over 200K... When our truck was in the shop around 175K I asked our mechanic to flush the transmission and he was hesitant since we did not know whether the prior owner had regularly changed the fluids. Any thoughts? We are currently experience the torque lock problem around 45-50 mph that is addressed in several other posts on here... so we are going to replace the alternator in the next few days... So any other suggestions on preventative measures to prolong the life of our transmission would be great! Thanks
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So I've been thinking that I want to put a oil trap on my crank case vent. My biggest problem is that I dont want to spend $200 on a kit. As I was thinking about options for a home made setup, I got a crazy idea...why not use the stock fuel filter housing? I have a FASS 150 on the truck already, so that housing is just sitting there doing nothing. Im going to look at what all i would have to change on it to make it work as my oil trap. Any ideas/gripes/complaints or comments about the whole idea??
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I'm thinking this brake will fit mine, and I shouldn't really have to have the downpipe? I have 4" MBRP from the turbo back on mine now, and this looks like it also fits an HX from my 02 ? Buddy isn't quite sure if it's all there, thought maybe you could tell by the pictures since you have one on your truck http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-2nd-gen-all-products/547752-banks-exhaust-brake-f-s-edmonton-ab.html - - - Updated - - - I guess I shoudn't have just asked Mike on this seeing others are running the brakes too :banghead:. Anyone else want to chime in?
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