2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I need new front axle u joints and the only ones I can find localy are precision u joints. Are these any good? Should I go with greasable or sealed? I don't mind doing the maintenance.

i have my block warmer on a timer. When it's really cold, go out and trip it back on. but i had to leave in an emergency, and it was -18.What happened was it cranked hard, (no big surprise there) and as soon as oil pressure came up, it kicked to 3 cyl idle. it skipped right over the 2 min normal idle and the 20-30 seconds of high idle. i hit the brake to stop it and it ran rough until the normal program kicked it back in.just thought i'd share that, because i didn't know it would do it that way.

Has anyone here had any experince with the lock n stitch method on repairing a 53 block? I have some ideas of just brazing it and then use there bracket to help support the block.I have no idea how much the lock n stitch is cost wise.

Does anyone know where someone could find the gromment for the fuel tank where the plumbing (suction/ return) lines go into tank? Mine was in bad shape and need to replace soon. Went to Dodge and said they cannot get it because the have supercided it so many times:banghead:. They wanted to know if i had the number that is on the gromment and they could search but it is torn there. Anyone have there tank exposed so they can see the number? Or have a location on where to get one? Any help would be greatful.

I had some errands to run today and drove the truck. As normal the temperature came up and held steady at 190*. I stopped at the local station to top off the fuel and left the truck running.It was in the low teens here in Michigan today. I know it's colder in other states but.............By the time I had topped off and went in to pay the temperature had dropped to about 160*Why..........

driving home from work about a month ago pedal goes dead replace apps sensor. drive to work does fine leave work just fine till a mile from home dead pedal again. reset apps good to the end of the driveway. back to the garage now with codes 1693 1286 0237 0236 0122 1475 0577. checked for broken wires and bad grounds replaced map sensor. started it up no bus and still no pedal. im lost

My fuel filter bowl drain has a constant drip leak out of the drain valve. I have monkeyed with it but can't get it to stop. It was doing about one drip per second but now I have it down to about one drip every 10 seconds. It is still leaking straight on to the engine mount and there is a fuel sheen on everything on that side of the block, and the truck stinks like a diesel leak.Is this common at all? It seems that just the plastic valve for emptying the fuel bowl is what is leaking, or rather, won't close back up completely. Can I buy a new plastic valve or anything to fix this? Some O-ring in there to replace?Thanks in advance

I got the sudden urge to creep underneath the truck earlier, and discovered an oil leak at the end of the transmission where the driveline connects. There's a gasket there and that's where the oil is leaking from. There's a drip there, I don't even wanna know how much fluid I've already lost just from driving it. Luckily I caught it in time and know it's there now. Anybody know what I'm talkin about? How hard of a fix is this?

Manufacturer recommends oil to be changed at the 7,500 mile interval along with other things. I've heard of people going to the full 7,500 and some won't even go past 3,000.I know it's a dumb question to be asking but, I can only come up with 2 conclusions to this.3,000 miles can be pretty costly but, increases engine life as it's being flushed out with new oil. I guess those who can afford will do this.7,500 will be more cost effective in the long run but, you have just doubled the contaminants introduced into the system by doing it at this time. We all know that oil serves us 4 purposes, and that is, seal, cool, lubricate, and clean. Only makes sense that all four of th…

FASS 150, AirDog drawstraw, Cat filter & head.

I slid my fuel plate full forward and when my truck shifts into over drive I'm getting shutter the tranny has only got bout 40k on a rebuild it only does it if your running the rpm 2k or above am I just over powering the tc It's not a billit tc

Hey guys just wanted to let everyone know I'm on the hunt to make my truck a manual shift If anyone knows were I can find a tranny pedals slave cylinder and and any thing else please shoot me a message the parts need to fit my 1995 I'll take a 6speed or a5speed

At 45 mph my tranny feels like it jumping in and out of over drive eng at 50 its good, any one had this problem and what is the fix.

i am putting a new clutch in my 02. i will have the tranny in my hand. it is pushing itself out of 1st and rev. when backing up or pulling forward, when i let of of the throttle something is pushing it out of gear. you can feel it in the shifter, like i was on the otherside pushing it out of gear. has anyone had experience with this? --- Update to the previous post... is it possible for a bad pilot bearing or input shaft bearing to cause this?

Anybody have any pricing? All I find is short blocks for sale and no pricing. Act like if they put a price on it the voodo dolls will come out or something.

The oil pressure on my truck always reads above 40. It is usually just before the slash mark between the middle 40 and the max 110 readings. (On the stock gauge) Is this alright? Why would it show this high?Thanks

My cruise started acting up a while ago. I would set it but it seemed like it wasn't working but if I hit accel a bunch of times it would start to hold. After a while it didn't work at all and when I had time to look at it I found a broken vac line. I fixed that and now I set it and it just pulls it to WOT Any ideas for me? And could someone explain how the thing works?

Hello all. Well I have been getting the turbo over boost code lately my wastegate is not rusted up. I tested to day with low air pressure. All I could hear was air hissing. It was coming from the actuators head. reached back and felt it. What do you guys suggest I replace with? Factory HX35 wastegate, turbo masters kit, banks big head or BD. I have no fueling boxes just stock truck with airdog 100 big line kit 5" exhaust. So blocking the wastegate would not work for me in this situation.Thanks guys,John

I have a '01 Dodge Cummins 4x4 automatic -truck had to go into the shop...being told that the wiring harness has melted together and we need a complete new one to the tune of 1065.00 plus 450.00 labor. It was flashing an ECM code and surging while driving which was the main reason it was taken in. Has anyone else had this happen or know why it might happen, or has anyone had to replace their wiring harness before?

I got one of Winslow's high idle boxes and the truck is awefull picky of when it will let it work. I tested the box with an ohm meter as per Winslow's instructions and it works correctly so I have ruled that out. Soemtimes the truck will start to idle up and then get to about 1000 rpm and just drop back off to 800 or so. Other times it will not idle up at all, even when its in the teens outside it should idle up on its own. The otherday I put the transmission in neutral it it idle'd up right so I thought it was the park switch but then the next day it idle'd up in park. I drove around the pasture loading up round horse panels and put it in park and hit the high idle switc…