2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Sitting at turnpike near mile marker 94 on route 476 pa on our way to ny Big puff of black smoke thought it was my turbo ..,, but was my trailer tire ... Oh .. And here's my spare Haha live and learn - stupid Aussie

Just changed rear drums, pads and parking brakes. Got it all back together and it seemed to work ok in the driveway. Went down the road and the rears are stuck on. Took them apart and checked and tried again and still the same. Are my calipers messed up? The second time I took them apart I put a block in and hit the brakes to see if the pistons would come out. one did but the second one on both sides took a HARD push on the pedal to make them go. Did i mess up something pushing them in?

My truck is equipped with the tow package and the 7-pin receptacle for trailer lights/brakes/etc. I have an electric brake controller in the cab. The ground (pin #1), left turn/brake light (#5), tail light (#3), right turn/brake (#6) and electric brake (#2) all work. As I understand it, pin #4 (2 o'clock) is used to charge the battery in the RV trailer. I checked the #4 pin with ignition on & it was dead. I looked at the trailer fuse (40 amp) in the power distribution panel under the hood and it looks good. Where else should I look for the disconnect? Also what is the auxiliary pin (#7, in the center) used for & how is it switched?Appreciate your help,Joe in St …

Alright, so with what I'm runnin' on my truck, I noticed something particular. Running at highway speed, I approach a grade. I keep on the throttle and EGT will go up as it should. Except, the temp on the gauge goes from 600 or so, climbs to 800, stops. It struck me as a little weird that it would just stop like that. Especially considering the fact I was pretty much about 2/3 the way up the grade.I got into the throttle more to see if I could make it climb more, but at this point, I had the turbo spooled up and the load decreased into relation of the grade and speed I gained.I coulda swore I could get the egt's to shoot higher. They have before... :think:Just trying to m…

I'm having trouble finding scuff plates (sill plates) for my 2001 ram 2500 quad cab, I need both sides in gray. I've found them for regular cab but not quad cab. If anyone knows where I can find them please let me know, last parts to a major project and growing impatient to finish. Thanks!

A while back I had my rear drivers side axle out to replace the wheel seal that was leaking and I noticed my backing plate was getting pretty ripe. Kind of said to myself, wonder when i'll have to replace that ? Found out tonight that it's now! Noticed the emergency brake was going alot further today and wasn't releasing well so I jacked it up tonight to adjust it, but noticed the star wheel for adjusting the shoes was sloppy. Thought I should take the rotor off and look ,and bam, backing plate was rotted off and the one side of the brake shoes let go. Looks like I know what I'll be doing in a couple days when my parts come :banghead:

so recently I've been towing my boat alot more since fishing season has picked up. my truck came equipped with the factory 7 pin trailer box on the hitch. I guess after many years of abuse my 7 pin has decided to crap out. In diggind around i found that on the drivers side frame rail right at where the hitch bolts on, there are 2 plugs one large square 4 pin, and a smaller flat 3 pin. the go directly to my 7 pin box. I've been searching high and low to see if i can find a new one to directly replace my factory one, but i have come up empty handed. ive tried most of my local bone yards, etrailer.com and ebay. NO luck:shrug:.i guess if i REALLY have to ill buy one and splic…

Got a question anOut my AC. Put some gauges on and the pressure seems ok. The problem is the clutch engages but turns slowly. Squirted it out with electric cleaner but didnt help. Do these go bad? It doesn't "snap" into engage, it just slowly starts turning. Could something else be stopping It?

I read with interest the recent thread on AC repair http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/6080-A-C-lines, & it brought up issues which I believe I have. History: Evaporator failed & I had it replaced about 2006 Last year it stopped working, finding no leak I mistakenly assumed the freon had leaked out & suspected the Evap again. My nephew did a quick recharge & it seemed to work briefly. Soon after, it stopped working again, I took it to AC service. The guy is actually a very impressive backyard shop (zoning is all over him to not have customers cars in the yard in addition to his own vehicles & a race car). He repeatedly evaced & refilled, …

Alright, so I'm pulling the dash and replacing the heater core. I got the A/C evacuated and its ready to get started on. Although, I was hoping to get a list going of anything that should get replaced while I'm in there.I bought my heater core, got a quote on the evaporator and resistor, but dunno about anything else. How can I tell if the evap is bad or the resistor needs replaced?What else?

I want to add two more gauges to my truck.Even if mechanical probably needs wiring for the background lighting.Whats the easiest way to have them all running of a 12v power - rather than runnning 4-6 different wires to the battery or to fuse taps ? It gets MESSY.I need a real "junior" explanation with paint by numbers examples

I want to get some with stainless steel coating that are heat resistant [close to my twins exhaust secondary]Any idea on size (ID and OD) ?? thanks

So ive noticed the past 2 summers this occuring.i start the truck and its hot outside, i turn the ac on max setting and when it kicks in it sounds like the compressor clutch explodes and the engine surges badly. after that its fine until the truck sits for a while and it all cools down.in the winter it doesnt do this.when i have the ac on before i turn the engine over it doesnt do this as its already engaged...ill check the pressure the pressures this weekend to ensure its not overfilled, not sure if the clutch pack is worn out causing the extreme engagement after engine is running.all the while the ac is nice and cold, its just the clutch on the compressor hammers into a…

Hi all, thought my 5/8 hoses were leaking before my transmission cooler but it appears to be my cooler instead. What are my options as far as what is available? How difficult is it to change out? Can I bypass it for right now? It's hay season & I need my truck.Thanks,Dave

http://www.genosgarage.com/CAB-FRESH-INTERIOR-AIR-FILTER-KIT-94-02/productinfo/CFF-DG-0610K/ Anyone have one? I'm thinking this will be a great asset for my truck. Say goodbye to clogged cores!

But I have vacuum Both cad 4x4 works as well as cruise control .... What to look at next ?

I am going to get rid of the 22s that I have on my truck now and I may have found a set of 2012 wheels someone took off their new truck. Y'all think $400 for a set of new takeoffs is fair? I would really prefer 18" wheels, but 17s wouldn't be horrible.ETA: The 22s came with the truck... I didn't go buy gangsta wheels.

Hey guys I have a little issue that I'm not sure how to determine where it's coming from exactly. Every time I round my cul-de-sac (sharp left turns at low speed basically) I get a rubbery feeling vibration through the steering wheel. Doesn't make a whole lot of noise, just a feel. It started out as a quick, sudden thing, but now happens for about the entire first rotation of the steering wheel. I'm not sure where to start looking and probably wouldn't know what exactly to look for even if I did. I have been thinking about buying the Rock Solid Ram steering bushing to tighten up the wheel a tad, should I do this and see if it still happens?

I looking into getting a larger frame mounted fuel tank anybody have one, and where did you get it. Thanks

Ok - need a hand - I suck at electronics Drivers window would go back up. New motor/bracket for window 2 months back chasing this issue. Worked flawlessly - till a week ago started having more issues. When I apply 12v direct to window motor harness it goes up and down fine - so its a problem with the switch (in the door where you move the windows up and down) or the wiring in the harness. I assume the switch in door connects the circuit when you want to window to move. That is the circuit is "broken" when the window switch is in neutral position. That means that the harness should have constant 12v right ?? So how do I multimeter the harness to check …