2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Here you go gang... I changed filter early because of a fuel pressure problem... So I desided to cut open the filters to show you...Fleetguard FF5613 filter open and exposed...Fleetguard FF5613 media or filter element... (3 micron)AirDog 150 water Seperator and prefilter opened and exposed.AirDog Prefilter media or filter element... (100 micron?)

Mike? :)I don't have a factory or OE keyfob. Not even sure if my SLT has the OE alarm. But if it does, I'd like to tap into the door locks and see if I can tap the OE arm/disarm with my aftermarket Viper KE system.Just one of my random thoughts..

How do I remove the EVS 2 alarm? I have it in my 98 and it drives me crazy!!! Has anyone uninstalled theres? :banghead: I can't find any info online...Thanks

Pulled the hood, both front fenders, front bumper, 4 doors and it still runs! There is a lot of stuff to un/do to pull those fenders!! The drivers side is the hardest to keep all the other stuff still hooked up. Sure wish someone would let me know if I can put all this into a Gas 2001 Dodge 2500 3/4 ton 4x4 as I am coming to a stoping point now as to fixing this one or doing the swap. I can still cut the top and replace it but all the other body stuff needs to be replaced (hood, both front fenders and bed) including the 2 front doors. I saved all the door parts including the electrical and trim. Come on guys chime in here a little and help me out? Mark

New to the forum, been doing a lot of reading since I bought a dead 98.5 cab chassis with an 11 foot service bed. Got her running soon enough and have most of the bugs worked out of her but I am troubled by a wobble - shimmy at about 64 to 68 MPH. Have replaced most all front end components (ball joints steering box - way bad, and a couple of the steering link joints link joints) as well as the the track bar twice. It is from Autozone. The first one I threw on a few weeks ago and didn't think anymore about it, had other know bad parts to replace. All said and done everything I've found to be bad has been replaced, some obvious, some checked with a dial indicator and jig. …

My air conditioning compressor recently started squeaking only while the compressor is engaged. Turn AC off & no squeak. I'm thinking bearing but haven't found a diagram to know that the bearing can be changed. The clutch is working. The only issue is the squeak & potential failure.I recently did the heater core and the AC is cold. Coolant is new, filled and not leaking. The less I have to disturb the radiator or AC the better. The usual "I want to be down as little as possible" applies. So...Can the bearing be replaced? Can it be replaced without removing the compressor? Does the radiator have to come out? Is the bearing a Dodge only part or is the…

Does anyone know if I can bolt on my 2001 rims on my 95 ram? Will it clear the brakes?Sent from my mobile phone using tapatalk

Does anyone have any idea if the rims off a 2010 3500 1 ton will fit my 2002 2500 3/4 ton without any problems.

Seems like I got a few problems dropped on me all at once. This time I found that the A/C is leaking back into the cab. I noticed a wet brown colored spot next to the passenger seat and began to investigate. After looking, it seems that the vent tube(?) inside the engine bay is leaking back into the cab. I felt what seemed like a foam oring/seal around the tube in the engine bay and it was soaked. After I pulled the carpet up in the cab I could see that water was coming from the same area inside. Right now I soaked up as much as I could with towels and went and got some damp rid. I figured I would let it dry out for a few days and then try and silicone the tube in …

Hi, I'm new to this forum. I have bought a 98.5 4x4 Cummins and the horn does not work when i press from the steering wheel but works with the EVS 2 factory alarm. Do you think its the clock spring? if so how big is the job to replace? Thanks...:banghead:

My bed has firewood in it, not much but my regular springs are a little weak and when I hit big divets in the road the suspension slams the overloads up into the rubber things that the overloads touch when being used, it sounds like the tailgate fell off when it does it. The plan/theory is that by ditching the overloads and replacing them with air bags that it will solve the issue. I could care less about anything fancy, I don't care if I have to get under the bed and air them up by hand. I hate those overloads and always have. Any ideas on where to get the bags and which ones to get? Cheaper the better but I'd rather it be cheap because I air them up by hand rather t…

Hi, I know this must be in here somewhere but can't seem to find what I need. I would like to wire my DRL's up to a switch (on off on ) so up is on with the high beams and off in the center and on all the time with the down position. Anybody have the proper wiring diagram for this?

Well I ned to fix my AC been putting it off long enough. Read JOHNFAK's thread on his AC Work Read ISX's sticky at the top, and in Johns thread Mike mentioned he did some work too? Mike if you did I know had to have posted pix somewhere I keep seeing a pic you posted that had the heater/evap box pulled apart. I cant find a thread about that if you did. Be nice to have a thread for ac work/repair. I have a leak some where and hope it is under the hood. Well either way I will probably pull the box out to can the evap either way, as well, I doubt its ever been done and couldnt hurt. It used to freeze me out of the cab, but not anymore. I made a list and am slowly fixing …

Well everyone, wondered why my fuel level has been going down so fast lately. Got out of the truck only to see a puddle of fuel leaking on the driveway. Got underneath it and as best as I could find the return line to the top of the fuel tank/sending unit was loose. Went to a friendly garage and got the truck up in the air and confirmed it. We put a draw straw along with a Raptor 100 pump in about a year ago and its been running fine since that time. Now this happens and of course it has to be 108 degrees and humid out there this week, so getting under the puppy for hours at a time to get the sending unit out just is not going to happen, at least right now. My problem so …

Hi guys, I've got to get a fuel pressure gauge coming and put into this truck of mine. I'm not one to be constantly changing things for the fun of it. I need to build my truck up as it is my work truck and as such is my breadwinner and dependability is #1 for me. I'm going to have to add things in stages, as I'm sure the whole “things are tight” story is rather familiar. So I'm trying to think ahead and not waste effort. Let me explain what I *think* I've figure out and the route I think I'll take to get there and PLEASE give me all the feed back you want. I've been reading so many threads, the head is swimming. I plan on a conservative approach. I thi…

Not sure if this has been answered before but I could not find anything. I have a 02 2500 5.9 diesel and I don't seem to be able to get any volume out of the dash vents. This seems to be more on AC so I guess it could be Icing up maybe? It never really seems overly forcefull even when first turned on. I have checked the vacuum hose on the firewall and I can hear the doors closing in the heater compartment so not sure what the trouble is. How much trouble to get apart?

does any one make a HD 5 pin flasher for towing. local NAPA doesn't list one .thanks

Trying to get the RPM counter working useing Dakota Digital counter box. What I need to find out is how many teeth are on a 2001 Dodge Cummins Manual 5 speed Flywheel. Any help much appreciated.

Finally got it done - found this works ;) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DODGE-RAM-DAKOTA-REMOTE-KEY-KEYLESS-FOB-TRANSMITTER-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem19c2a1f18dQQitemZ110639575437QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories then use this to program your remote (took me 3 attempts - not straight forward but does work) http://www.ekeylessremotes.com/chrysler-remotes/2006/sebring/click-here-for-free-remote-programming-instructions-mop-19/ Key cut from ACE for $2.99 So I got it all done (and works) for under $25 hope it helps

I have never understood why Dodge used the systems that it does to control the Heat / AC diverter door. The vacume devise is at best overly complex. I'm wondering why an old fashoned push/pull cable would not be better. Why not re-engineer it? "Choke cables" are cheap.