2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Hey guys, It's been close to 25 years since I've done any 'at home' body work. I was wondering if anyone has replaced their cab corners.. and found a good product to use, or one to stay away from? Several choices on ebay, about 35 to 50 bucks a corner. I'm going to replace the corners, get it waterproof again, and then box line the whole cab from the lower body line down.. Thinking dark grey on the maroon should look pretty good? Now that the box is off, changing up the corners will be lots easier!

I am trying to remove the left [Drivers side] battery tray. I removed the visual nuts and bolts from the battery tray, it wont come out, so I went online for information and they speak of battery tray bolts that are attached from the bottom of the tray which I can not see or feel. My thoughts are to remove the rubber/plastic wheel cover shield on the fender to gain access to the battery tray bolts. The wheel cover is attached with several plastic clips which has to be removed for access. I need to remove the battery box to access the Cruise Control Server and hoses/wiring, Sorry for the long story but I want you to understand what I am doing. If there is an easier way to …

Wonder where they find these guys working at these places. Yesterday I went in for getting a flat fixed and to place a matching rim, I recently bought to match all the other wheels, put on the spare. The guy acts like I'm a waste of time for him and his shop. Then when they got done the spare was installed crooked enough that it would have come loose eventually loosing it on the highway. They seem to only care about the bigger sales since they have profit sharing.... well when I need a new set, I won't be going back there either. You would think since they recognized I have 2 trucks, with the work they did, that take a relatively expensive set of tires, that they would…

Bought a 2002 2500 and has a quadzilla adrenaline. Just want to know if anyone would still have the install manual so I can use it to uninstall it correctly. Thanks. Let me know if you need more info on the unit as I'm not to familiar with quadzilla products.

I recently inspected my ball joints & they are toast. All the boots are torn/missing, the lowers have about 1/4" play, and the uppers aren't far behind. Not sure if they are OEM, but all the aftermarket ball joints I have seen come with a zerk fitting & these are sealed units (190K on the truck). I can't afford to pay a shop to do the job so I plan to do it myself. I have a fair ammount of experience in auto repair, replaced ball joints on smaller vehicles, and have some front end experience with this truck; had to replace the front rotors/hubs when I bought the truck - yea, those 100lb cast iron lumps! I'm pretty well tooled-up (jacks & stands, air tools, 3/…

2002 2500. Does anybody know the torq specs for the front diff cover bolts? And do you guys recommend silicone or gasket? Thanks

So today on The way to get the parts for our company truck while in my 01 3500 ram. I came around a curve and on the other side of the 2 lane road. I seen a doe standing next to the road I was going about 55 mph in 6th out of habit I geared down and let off the fuel pedal. The doe ran toward the fence and began to jump over mid jump she turned around and ran across the road as I got there I hit it dead center of my front bumper. I said some words as the deer went sliding down the road about 40 foot or so then off to my side. So I rode up past and got out to check for damage on the truck and there was almost no damage on it. I broke the bad fog light I was gonna replace. …

Well a paid a guy that I trusted pretty well to do a brake job and fluid flush on the dually. After looking at it and having a severe vibration I called him out on it. Boy was he pissed. Trying to fight me and everything. What do you guys think. Put maybe 100 miles on it before I had a chance to flush it myself today. The vibration is a another long story. The pic is what I sucked out of the reservoir One other thing, I think I may have glazed my front pads cause I took down the track the day after they were put on. Are they toast or will they come back after some wear?

As the title says i need the "Proper Term" for a piece on a 1998 Dodge 3500. And i'm in kind of a rush persay as I leave in 2 days for a 4 day weekend at the lake. And the boss wants the truck fixed i need outta my Drive way to get my camper out. Anyway's Today our work truck had a problem just to fill y'all in on how "Fun"it was. Sooo my coworkers used the company truck 3 time's today with no issue persay I was asked to go pick up a Tractor. As they returned in the truck i jumped in road back to the field and hooked up the trailer. Grabed the money for the tractor and headed out. I got down the gravel road hit the brake's and the rear tires grabed and drug alittle (Norma…

What am I looking for in checking my 5 volt bus for proper operation? Are we talking just a voltage test? Fuel gauge, coolant temp and transmission shifting have been odd.

I was under the truck a while back and saw the drivers side U bolts had rusted badly in the threaded section that goes through the axle plate. The truck has not been driven in winter since '06. I have been tossing around the idea of traction bars and this seemed like a good opportunity since the set I wanted came with new u bolts.

While removing my inner front fender cover I found two wire connectors [male and female] with many fine wires. they were attached to the lower rear of the drivers side wheel well and just inside of the outer fender and exposed when removing the inner fender cover. It just does not look like any electrical engineer would design a wire harness to just hang like this and not secured to anything for protection. Have any members found the same wiring on your Dodge/ Cummins. 1998.5, vp44 4x4 5 speed.

I can't figure out why all of a sudden my fuel guage would start reading higher than normal. It's a cross the range. Doesn't start coming down off full for a longer time. Reading about 1/4 tank and taking 32 gallons. I could understand a float becoming fuel logged and not reading as high as it used to. But all of a sudden it's reading higher. Battery still charging at a constant 14.4 volts. Same as always. Is there a tank access mod through the bed in my future?

I have been looking for adjustable ball joints for my 2WD 2500. As the suspension sags the alignment is thrown off causing excessive wear on the ball joints and the tie rods. All I have found are MOOG and we all know the issues with these. Does anyone know of a good adjustable ball joint for the 2WD trucks?? Seems like they are all made for the 4WD. I appreciate your help!!

Hi all, I ran into a problem when I was trying to change my front driver side brake line on my 99 4wd. I went to Napa and got a brake line, but when I was about to take the old one off I noticed where it mounts to the frame there is another line that comes and t's into the brake line I'm trying to replace. It's kind of hard to visualize so I'll try to take a pic. The brake line I bought to replace the bad one didn't have a fitting for the other line. Should I but the line from the dealer? I can't seem to find any parts stores that have what I'm looking for. Thanks

I am thinking about the pros and cons of doing this conversion using heavy duty wire and relays.Have any of you done this conversion?There is a lot of information on other forums,I have to do some thing if I am going to do much night driving. I'd appreciate any of you suggestions. Thanks Art

We all need a good news story now and then! This spring I decided to update my interior and replaced my lower dash in my 2002 4X4 quad cab. After I was done it would not start! Long story short, took it to local Dodge dealer, they found a pulled pin in a connector, $760.00 later truck was home. We pulled our 30 foot fifth wheel and two quads to Silverton Colorado! Ole blue ran perfect! Got 10 mpg average, pulled all that stuff over a 11,000 foot pass, dry camped for two weeks along a beautiful creek. Love that truck! Gods creation is awesome!

I can't find the problem. Replaced all but one tie rod end and that one has zero play. I have a wee bit of play in my track bar. But less than when I replaced it and I never had a death wobble then. I hooked a pry bar in the left wheel and pulled on it. I was amazed at the flex in the tie rods. Could that be the problem? Or incorrect toe in after replacing the tie rod ends?

On the 4th of July I by a deer going 60 mph towing my travel trailer. Lots of momentum and didn't feel it that much. Pushed the right side of the bumper in and tore up the rubber. It did out a slice in the right radiator support. I am attempting to upgrade the bumper to a Buck Stop bumper. Been on my list of mods, so I figure I might as well take the money to restore to OEM and pay a little extra to get a welded steel bumper with brush guards. The deer didn't fair well. Toast.

Sorry I haven't been here in a while but since I have no real expertise and haven't been having any problems... Anyway, Now I have a problem. By the way, I keep trying to make a donation but it keeps failing. So, my issue is that my power door locks will not lock. Not with the fob, not with the button, not when it's put into gear, nothing. However, it unlocks as advertised, i.e., with fob, when put into park, and with the passenger unlock button, not the driver's. So, I replaced both driver's and passenger's switches (located on each respective door arm rest). Has anyone had any experience with this issue? Thanks for any help you can give.