2nd Generation Dodge Reliability / Performance

Hey guys just curious of everyone's cold morning routines I know everyone's cold morning may mean something different to everyone else. Well I'm in North Carolina and at about 45* out I may start the truck let it idle for about one minute and get rolling.. Is that bad? At what temperature out is it bad to let the truck just idle to warmup? And at what temperature should I let the truck idle for a few more minutes before I roll on to work? I have been really considering the high idle switch but I need the previous questions answered first and also what if you have a programmer such as the quadzilla or EJWA? Will the high idle switch still plug and play and work as it shoul…

Im pretty new to diesels and this will be my 1st winter with one. Last year my transmission was down and then I shipped out to basic. Question 1:I have weak batteries (I need to replace them, but Christmas is making that tough) and I am wondering what all is going on when the "wait to start" light is on. I know the grid heater is one, but what else? What would happen if I just jumped in my truck and started it like a gas engine? The reason I as I am trying to save power for the starter when its cold.Question 2:When, and for how long should the block heater be plugged in before you start? What would I risk if I left the block heater plugged in all the time? High power bill…

Just got off the phone with Casey at edge asking questions about the edge comp.... Im still working out the low boost smoke issue and he told me that levels 1-3 do not utilize the pump tap!! I asked how level 3 makes 80 hp on the comp and the ez only makes 65 hp... He said the comp does it but doesnt use the tap untill level 4 and if i unhook the tap it will function as an ez.. but instead of 20,30,and 65hp it would be 40,60 and 80 hp... This goes against everything ive read about the edge comp.. Im hoping you guys can shed some light on this for me as my conversation with tech support left me more confused lol

Well after some trial and error, i looked around at some other forums and someone suggested unplugging the map but leave harness plugged into comp. I should have seen smoke and more power. Well it ran the same like i had not done anything. so i toggled through the scangauge, and it showed 22 psi boost, and if i toggled to map, showed 22 also, seems i may have a permanately defueled computer or something. It runs good and no codes but my comp feels like my EZ. Any suggestions welcome.

ETA: Update in later posts. Edge not most likely culprit! ---Rant part.Well, Guys, I need to vent. And if you have any suggestions, I am interested, because as soon as they will cut me a check for their un-fixable product, I am going to go with something else. I have had it with Edge Products Juice CTS. I have had this chip for 6 months and it has never actually worked, its been through (from Edge) three Juice Modules, two CTS modules, a new wiring harness (complete) and its been RMA'ed back to edge once for them to work on it. They said that they found an issue with it, and that it should work and sent it back to me. It got back without the pressure transducer that …

I'm in the process of getting my parts together to fab up a compuond setup. Top turbo is a HE351. I picked up a HT3B for the low pressure turbo. I thought it was a 26cm exhaust housing. Turned out to be a 32cm. Questoin is this. With a set of 150 sticks do you guys think the 32 will light? Or should I just start looiking for a 26/27 cm housing? How bad do you think this wild lag used as a 32? You can see my current mods in my sig. Thanks

hey guys I'm looking for the best compound set up for my truck. Its a 99 24v with 125 hp injectors, headstuds, fass 150, CAI, 4 inch exhaust, iQuad V2 tunes, and a BW 364 sxe. i am curious what would be the best size turbo to use as my big turbo while using my 364 as the small turbo. Also if anybody has recommendations on piping kits that work well with these trucks. I don't plan to do any thing else power wise for the truck after this.

Would my super b special and a hx40w be a good set up for a compound system?

Those of you with compound turbos, what are you seeing for exhaust temperature at full throttle? At what point do you stop adding fuel and just accept the fact that you are out of air? Not concerned about drive pressure or turbo sizes at the moment, just exhaust temperature. For example, With DAP 7x.013 VCO nozzles set to pop around 315 Bar, with Max canbus fuel command and 1200us of wiretap, I'm seeing a peak of about 1355°F EGT at just over 60 psi. Without the wiretap, It's less than 1200° at 50 psi or so. Is it worth adding a little more wiretap?

Started gathering parts for my compound set up. I'm about to order stainless for the piping. I was going to go with 3 inch diameter. What wall thickness is everyone else using ? Cheers

well just replaced my manifold to a 3 piece stocker was cracked fuel economy is awesome 17-18 in town hand calc 24 fwy at 60 im running a smarty tuner with rv275 injectors S&B air intake and 4" exhaust with an airdog 100 ive got a chance to pick up an aurora 2000 for $500 my truck is a 1998 24 valve auto wondering is this worth buying and upgrading? currently my boost is at about 35 i dont plan on making over 450 hp as i tow heavy 15k and want a reliable motor that will run 500k+ miles so should i keep my stock turbo or upgrade? the stock turbo clears up my exhaust very well and my temps range about 900 while towing at 30 psi of boost and last of all any power gain wi…

Basic Setup Engine: Stock with studs, Industrial Injection 62/12 turbo, 125 SAC injectors Trans: ATS low stall converter, billet input Goal: NO SMOKE, instant boost, and lots of spinny turbine noises. I don't need more power, but if I get it, oh well. The questions are: 1. Will twins get this done for me? I think so, @TFaoro had the same turbo and injectors when he went twins and he said it was instant boost and no smoke (until he blew up his intercooler.) 2. What secondary to use? I am looking at Crazy Carl's S475 and S472... He has three options for both. Select the smaller turbine (83/1.10) for tow…

I have a 99 quad cab 4x4 short box. New Michelin's going on next week and an alignment as well. The front end is tight and no abnormal wear in the usual places. I don't drive it much and try to stay on top of repairs and maintenance I have had it lined up in the past and that lower control arm adjustment bolt was never touched. The bolt was seized. Easy enough fix. I used a zip saw and cut the bolt out and then drove the center out. Replaced with factory parts. My question is...I thought there was a discussion on adjusting this to push the housing forward on the bottom for better handling. I looked but can't find that info again. …

My Raptor frrp developed an internal leak after just barely a year, introducing air into the system and causing hard starts after sitting for a few hours. So I called Air Dog and they got a new one out right away, no questions asked. They don't even request my pump in return which I thought was pretty neat. Now some of you may remember my post a few weeks ago about the Air Dog 100 I had the chance to pick up for dirt cheap. I ended up taking it apart, the motor was fried without a doubt. So rather then throw it out like the guy was going to do I put it on the shelf in the garage, I just could not see throwing something like that out.Now fast forward a few weeks, my frrp c…

How often change fluid? Do we flush?

So I saw this in the store... https://mopar1973man.com/store/product/46-47re-48re-cooler-line-replacement-kit/ Can someone learn me up on why I'd need this?!

I've been around this block before, Which comes first, the puck or the fooler. Here are some diagrams to explain my theories. also, I'm thinking of trying to add a smoke switch, but I seem to be getting two stories 1. the signal voltage INCREASES as boost pressure increases. 2. the signal voltage DECREASES as boost pressure increases. It would also seem that having a Boost Fooler between the "Smoke Switch" and the ECM harness would eliminate the need for a resistor inline with the switch as the fooler should keep you boost signal from getting out of spec.thoughts, theories, b!#@#*$ or complaints welcomed...I have a thick skinA correction on the diagrams: Ignore anyth…

I blew my head gasket on my 12V'er over a month ago, and have been shaving away at the head since. I'm not going to pretend like I know what I'm doing, I just want to document what I've done. Some of these pictures arn't up to date, I'll update them as I get new ones. Taking pictures of this stuff have proved to be challenging. First things first. Now, here's a look at the factories handy work. Notice the difference between these two cylinders. I can't do any worse than that! Also note the horrendous lip around the inside of the valve seat blocking much needed air flow. Plus there is an excess of material around the valve guide. …

It's been so long since I've been on here or posted I couldn't remember my user name so I had to sign up again. This forum has always been the best place for anything cummins and I need some advice. On my trip to Lake Powell this weekend towing my boat I started hearing an exhaust leak while under load. Turns out my manifold is cracked almost in half through the runner for cylinder 4. Almost all the miles I put on my truck anymore are either towing my 10,000lb 5th wheel, 5000lb? boat or just driving up in the mountains getting firewood or hunting. I've been looking at the DAP 3 piece, adding an Isspro boost guage and changing my autometer Pyro to an Isspro to …

What's your guy's opinon on a evac/system that plums/plugs into the exhaust?Just thinking,,, (like the gassers use) they dont seem to pull hard enought to suck oil out, plus they have a check valve on them. Just thinking out of the box.........