so on a truck i can pound these out. but on this it doesn't look like they do that. has anyone replaced the studs on a TT axle.? tips thoughts.

 

this was a result of someone loosening the lugs before my week long road trip on friday.

You'll most likely have to remove the hub and look but I'm pretty sure you can beat the studs out with a large hammer.

i've taken it off already. i'll go beat on it and see if it drops out...

The whole hub probably isn't that expensive. New bearings too. Like $30 for a 5 lug wheel if I remember correctly.

this was a result of someone loosening the lugs before my week long road trip on friday.

So do you have an enemy?

I got one to pound out, so I'll do some shopping later today, the bearings are new last October.

I do have some punk kids around here that don't like me. They like to drive by my house reving the engine. Idk maybe it's s macho thing. Now it's time to start reviewing the cameras. I have a weeks worth to do though. The wife n I checked them all on Monday last week, and aired them all up to 75lb. So I know they were tight then.

Now it's time to start reviewing the cameras.

 

Than also document the labor and repair of the RV. Then contact the law enforcement. That would end that problem quickly.

I wouldn't be beating them out as it can damage the hubs. 

 

You will want a press to get the new ones in so you may as well press the old ones out. 

That seriously stinks!  Do you need new rims now?  How many wheels did they do it to? I had that once on the front of the Toyota pickup right after purchasing it, don't know if it was on purpose, I'de like to give the PO the benefit of the doubt.  They were aluminum wheels though, so it ate them quick.

On trailer rims of any sort I torque torque and then recheck the torque and then recheck again several times a year. The side radial loading when doing sharp turns tends to make things flex and loosen them up. I have a couple trailers that are bad for nuts coming loose unless I keep them constantly torqued up. My pontoon trailer is the worst, I think I have replaced 2-3 rims in the same amount of years, I have been lucky and caught them before they damaged the studs of failed completely, they crack out through the stud holes over time. Since I have done a more extensive retorque check I have stopped the issue so far.

What do you torque them too?

 

I go to 100 on my 6 lug axles. 

I do 125, unless my torque wrench is way off.

Normal I do both truck and trailers at 120 ft/lbs.

You will want a press to get the new ones in so you may as well press the old ones out. 

I second that. It's ez to pound them out but getting the stud flush with the hub can be a bit of a pain. I use to have a tool that would let me remove and install studs while the hub was left on the car. One day it grew legs and left.

The torque on my 5er's 6 stud wheels is done in 3 stages. 

#1 20-25 ft/lb

#2 55-60 ft/lb

#3 85-95 ft/lb

I carry a torque wrench with me when I travel. I have found from time to time that the lug nuts have loosened and get re-tightened to 95 ft/lb. The truck is tightened to 130-135 ft/lb.

i'm what some would call hillbilly deluxe. i don't have 200$ for a press. but i do have a mini sledge that works great. and i know how to use extra lug-nuts to seat the new lugs. is it the best way? maybe not, will it work just fine. i'm sure it will. ive never had issue with it in all the vehicles I've done it to.

i suppose i could use my log splitter as a press as i did for my OD unit rebuild a few months back. but i'll try my way first.

my original question was weather these where the thread in type. where you have to lock two nuts together and tighten them in.

I've done it with an old socket over the stud and an inverted lug nut, tighten the lug nut till you think the studs going to break and hope the stud shoulder is flush with the hub 'but getting the stud flush with the hub can be a bit of a pain' some of the time. You can use nuts, washers, or a rely short piece of pipe steel if the right socket can't be found.

  

Edited June 9, 201510 yr by IBMobile

thanks everyone for the input. no one in town has these studs (figures).

Don't use the log splitter. I'm sure you will do damage to something. How do I know... I've done the same thing and ended up crushing the part accidentally.   20 ton log splitter can do serious damage really quick. So I suggest since neither one of us have the press it back to the ol' BFH.

Check put etrailer.com

I thought your original question was if anyone had done it, and for tips and thought. You got what you asked for, so... I don't see anything about the type being asked.

Check put etrailer.com

I thought your original question was if anyone had done it, and for tips and thought. You got what you asked for, so... I don't see anything about the type being asked.

 

Not bad... About $50 bucks for a new drum with studs.

I use a hammer all the time to do studs, maybe use a vice on some with a socket or pipe depending on the drum or hub design. As far as torque there are too many rims types and lug sizes to just throw out a number, each is different. I go with MFG specs on them or if standard lugs on steel wheels then I go with SAE torque for fastener size.